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Everything posted by Carnforth

  1. When I built my Clayton I used two Bachmann CL25 gear towers, Mashima 14/28 with two flywheels on cab floor. Mounted via press studs under the bonnets. Works well.
  2. Pretty sure Mark describes these or something very similar as "de-luxe" crankpins.
  3. Hi RhbSimon I messaged you in April re. Ivatt CL4 with a bit of info. Did you see it? cheers
  4. Here a scan of the cover of my copy from 2006. Ignore the graffiti. Can scan the contents if anyone is interested. I used to ask Adrian regularly if he'd make his Pipe wagon BR D1/461 kit available again. Would be great if the range were to be resurrected. Still have racks of his wagon detailing packs to use. cheers Steve
  5. Afternoon All I don't often post on here but thought I'd share this. Last year I was asked to replicate this for a client. Gone through the usual processes, dismantle, matt varnish, dry brushing, powders, screen wiper sweeps etc with the addition of Brassmasters brake etch, in part at least as it's designed around the Lima model. This is Bachmann. Custom printed headcodes as requested by the owner.
  6. Built plenty of these. I always make sure that 1st stage is directly under the worm by use of washers but to enable this I fit the top left hand (viewed from top) bearing from the outside in then dress back from the inside. This allows precise placement of 1st stage. Then fit the other bearings as per instructions. Should say that I do this prior to folding for ease of access. HTH
  7. Whenever I used Laminated rods where the leading crankpin runs behind the crosshead my trick is to snip the front boss off the overlay and retain to the the pin with a 14BA brass washer. This makes that area no thicker than the remainder of the rod. That and file as much as I dare from the rear of the crosshead, Much easier than mucking about with cylinders and risking going out of gauge. HTH Steve
  8. Hi All, I must say that as a pro builder I find Mark to be an excellent, helpful supplier that I have dealt with for decades. I do know that he's very busy, sends his products globally and has recently had some extensive building/plant/machinery work done. Most of my orders with him have been fairly substantial, come complete and during my sometimes quirky conversations with him we have established a common ground and a sense of humour never goes amiss. I always use the 'phone and whilst Mark is sometimes difficult to contact in this way it has never failed me. HTH Steve
  9. I just use diluted phosphoric acid without any other additives. A litre of 80% from the 'net, dilute to 10% for brass, nickel silver or white metal. enough to last a lifetime. works fine. HTH Steve
  10. Hi Andy

    please can you tell me, in layman's terms (please) is it possible for me to migrate? my old picture gallery, "read only" , I think you told me, into the new forum so's I can add to it?

    cheers and thanks for your hard work.


    1. AY Mod

      AY Mod

      Thanks Steve, individual galleries are only available for Gold members now. The rest are community-wide galleries but people can select to see your gallery pics via search etc.

    2. Carnforth


      Hi Again Andy

      Sorry to bother you again. I sent this link 

      to a customer. It works for me but he gets this message   "We could not locate item you are trying to view". Error 2G189/2, How can he get to view, please?




  11. If you can't find any I have a near complete set of Cambrian CT2 rub-on transfers as in pic. Yours for the price of a couple of stamps if you wish!
  12. This is why I use Mr Muscle. Won't affect plastics. In a previous thread on this topic, someone used it to strip a point without any damage to any part.
  13. If you can get some, try Mr Muscle foaming oven cleaner. Place item in plastic bag to stop it drying and leave to soak.
  14. Me neither but some one surely will. Could the M be for McGowan?
  15. Hi Jon I've just started soldering up the pulleys from etch you supplied and wondered if you had any left. I think I'd need more of the larger size to fully rig the jib. Double at the hook and double in the jib-end.

    Probably two more but spares are always handy. Any chance?



    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. Carnforth


      Thanks Jon

      Can I not buy a full fret? Surely 2 in the hook needs 2 in the jib?



    3. jonhall


      Steve, yes you can buy another fret if you wish - I'm not convinced you need to, (else I would have supplied more than 4) but that's just my interpretation of the drawing.....


      Needless to say I added extra's of the small ones to the fret!



    4. Carnforth


      You were right Jon, sorry. If I use two smaller ones in the jib end there's sufficient.i messaged Mr Wildboarfell re. jibs and runners but he's not responded. Do you know if he had any spares as he indicated in the thread?




  16. Works for me, had a look this morning.
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