Jump to content
 

Carnforth

Members
  • Posts

    252
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Carnforth

  1. If a rattle can and you have Motor Factors near you that will mix paint, I used RAL 3005 after researching. (As in picking the brains of others )! HTH
  2. Both in the Swindon built lots, maybe all these were green then? 46503/27
  3. Here is a copy of my post from 2009 when the first batch were available. It may or may not help you. Prices and suppliers no longer valid but it gives you an idea. On 25/10/2009 at 10:47, Carnforth said: Mornin. Here should be brief, edited resume of what I did to 2 of these. This applies to the first issue and I posted it on another forum which was active on this topic at the time. Hope it is if some use. Steve I've just re-motored two of these for a friend with Mashima Flat Can 16/28s. ?? 20.50 each inc p+p from CometModels.This gives you as much quality motor as you can get in very easily. The flywheel bores need opening out to 2mm, and there's a small locating pip which needs removing from the chassis casting. The top plastic half of the motor mounting clasp can still be used by careful use of the 4 screws, run only partway in. The other problem which occurs with this model can be tightness of the gear tower assembly. I removed the brass worm and its attendant bearings,note the flats filed on the top edge to stop the bearings from spinning,( there was no end-float between these three parts, and the stub axles were a little too snug in the bearing bores). The inner faces of the bearings were dressed back a little and the bores opened out likewise. Both are now re-assembled and running in lovely. Dead slow crawl at 1v, whereas the motors supplied wouldn't even run with no load at less than 6v and sounded like an angry wasp. Shouldn't be necessary, of course and I' m glad I didn't wait all that time for them to appear with these faults. Poor assembly coupled with an awful motor! That said, it's a nice looking model but runs like a dog, unless you've been VERY lucky. Steve
  4. I think Railtec do sheets of rivets, in white rather than black..
  5. Here ya go. Amazon, about £6. Various sizes available but this is 1/8". Discs collect in the sprung retaining cup.
  6. I dress the axles and nuts back slightly prior to assembly, then use an 1/8" punch on plastic film and sit the disc in the resulting slight rebate, fixed with black acrylic paint. Last job at final assembly.
  7. Any reason why you cannot add wire pick-ups from the live side wheels soldered direct to the frames? Relying on bearings to flow current is fine once running but I wouldn't rely on that alone. HTH
  8. Here's one that I built for one of the service crew of 46441about 35 yrs ago, I did him one in black too. He who pays the piper !!
  9. Betty Beet's Ivatt CL2 46441. Presently resides at L&HR.
  10. They both have different minimum landing sizes, not sure what they are now but for Dabs ( we called them Garves) it is quite small.
  11. Agreed, once you've removed the iron coating on Antex bits, they're on a short lifespan.
  12. This will help. https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brfish
  13. Not seen it mentioned yet but I use Servisol switch cleaning lubricant in an aerosol, sprayed onto a cotton bud for wheels or a piece of card for railheads. First used it to improve continuity in the roller bearings in my Bacrus rolling road. Stated to improve conductivity. Works a treat, maybe similar to the WD products.
  14. Bit late, this but Railmatch do Rail red in Acrylic, 18ml Plastic pot.
  15. Very nice and thanks, may have been but it was a side on pic as I recall. I remarked at the time how well observed and modelled it was.
  16. Very nice, not these but thanks. It was a solitary wagon in black.
  17. Evenin' all Some time ago there was a pic of a weathered Grampus wagon standing alone, so impressed that I made coment on it. Try as I may, I cannot find it now. It may have been here or in Weathering, painting forum , or it may be lost after the issues. Can anyone point me in the right direction, please? TIA, Cheers Steve
  18. I've had to do this with some smaller lightweight motors where you run out of range. Set CV393 to 64, this will bring chuff rates into a workable range within CV267 Steve
  19. Yes they do, LM46 but you'll still need the pony, cylinders etc. Most of their chassis kit (LCP) consist of an amalgam of otherwise seperate kits from their range.
  20. Comet do a chassis kit for 76xxx. I built one a long time ago to use under the Airfix kit. Also do a tender chassis to suit. Used a Buhler motor with Ultrascale g/box, which they were marketing at the time as a complete unit. Drives middle axle with motor in firebox. I still have it.
  21. If it's been solderd with low-melt, put it in a dish and pour boiling water over it. Armed with tweezers and a small, stiff paint brush to brush away the molten solder should get you back to point A. HTH.
×
×
  • Create New...