torikoos

Hi all, aside from North American suppliers do any of you know of any other sources that can supply RP25 (either 'standard', or RP25/110 RP25/88 ) wheel sets here in the UK? They seem few and far between... Specifically I'm looking for wheels that have an approx 11.5mm diameter and a 2mm shaft. I don't mind if they are isolated on one side or both, but I don't need/want split axle designs. These are needed to fit new wheels to a few ROCO locomotives, that have the larger (but not quite) pizza cutter flanges. I'm happy to use a puller to remove wheels from a shaft and refit them to this loco. I have been looking at the DCC concept wheel sets, that make a couple of different sizes, not quite the size I need but I could get away with the 12mm version as the models I need them for currently have 11.5mm wheels. What isn't mentioned at DCC concepts is the shaft diameter, if those are only 1.5mm then they would be too small, but if 2mm then they should be a good fit. Thanks for the help on these.

thanks everyone for your replies and help so far, very useful. I will first have a look at regauging as JimFin suggests, failing that I'll get in touch with BEMO to see what they can offer. Best regards, Koos

Many moons ago, before I seriously got into US modelrailroading, I obtained a BEMO Rhatische Bahn GE6/6 crocodile at a secondhand market. The model is flawless, and has seen very limited use. I guess by now the grease etc in the drive is probably a bit dried up, etc but there is another 'problem'. The loco in question is actually gauged as an HOe model, and thus runs on 9mm track. As we know, the RhB is meter gauge, thus HOm, or 12mm track width. I am not that familiar with Bemo product history but I presume the models were probably offered in both gauges initially (maybe the 9mm gauge was because they look more 'narrowgauge' doing so). Anyway, what I'm hoping is that I can obtain a 12mm wheelset to regauge my locomotive to 12mm, so that in time I may start a little side project building a small HOm module on which I could run this loco. (in the meantime I'll also digitize it, add sound and replace the bulbs with LED's etc). Can anyone let me know if replacement wheelsets are available, who to order from? Or should I renegade this model to a display cabinet? Or, do I have a rarity in my hands that is worth a fortune and would enable me to buy a new 12mm version with the proceeds :-) Thank you, Koos

Many moons ago, before I seriously got into US modelrailroading, I obtained a BEMO Rhatische Bahn GE6/6 crocodile at a secondhand market. The model is flawless, and has seen very limited use. I guess by now the grease etc in the drive is probably a bit dried up, etc but there is another 'problem'. The loco in question is actually gauged as an HOe model, and thus runs on 9mm track. As we know, the RhB is meter gauge, thus HOm, or 12mm track width. I am not that familiar with Bemo product history but I presume the models were probably offered in both gauges initially (maybe the 9mm gauge was because they look more 'narrowgauge' doing so). Anyway, what I'm hoping is that I can obtain a 12mm wheelset to regauge my locomotive to 12mm, so that in time I may start a little side project building a small HOm module on which I could run this loco. (in the meantime I'll also digitize it, add sound and replace the bulbs with LED's etc). Can anyone let me know if replacement wheelsets are available, who to order from? Or should I renegade this model to a display cabinet? Or, do I have a rarity in my hands that is worth a fortune and would enable me to buy a new 12mm version with the proceeds :-) Thank you, Koos

New updates you may know: ESU has launched the V5 decoder, which features amongst others improved motor control and improved soundquality with 10 channels simultaneously being an option. Not sure if there will be a Select decoder version at this time. There appears to be a Direct V5 , as it's called, which may be a replacement for the select direct line and it's board will fit in most DCC Ready US models (such as Athearn/Atlas designs etc) The full manual is not yet available in English, but a quick start guide is. The first models are shipping with this decoder too, amongst which ScaleTrains latest SD40-T2 Tunnelmotors. Updated sounds are scheduled to be released in the coming weeks to take full advantage of the improved sound features... http://www.esu.eu/en/products/loksound/loksound-5-dcc-direct/

Here is the S4 again, 98% complete, some additional touch up , and painting of the handrail ends to white to do, and a little extra weathering.

Currently working on what will become Southern Pacific S4, 1798. This is an old Atlas/Roco model, with cast on grabirons etc. I have cut these off, sanded the shell smooth and replaced by separate details where possible. It won't be 100% accurate, but as a 'clubrunner' it will be just fine. The unit will receive a Loksound V4 decoder with a sugarcube style speaker. Here is the shell, after detailing and a first coat of Tamiya primer, to be able to better see any blemishes etc before continuing with the next paint coats.

Hi Mal. I haven't been too active over the last 6 months or so, so I just caught up with this project (both phase 1 and 2), it looks great again! Keep it up :-)

What do you mean 'once only'? As in one complete soundfile/ project that cannot be tweaked further (unlike the completely customisable projects for the full V4.0 versions), or only one upload, as that would be wrong. you can upload into a Select over and over again, but it will be entire project files every time.

Entertained, yes of course, but I'm sure that the Freemo layout's aim was to show how you can operate realistically. It may not be for everyone, but neither are the oval race tracks etc. Something for everyone, some things will inspire you, others leave you cold. I believe the purpose of shows like this is to show the people how varied the hobby is , not just show one aspect of it (i.e. the running of trains without real purpose , but solely for 'exhibition' purposes)...

Indeed, I much prefer prototypical operations at scale speeds, rather than aimless running around (or back and forth) of trains, which gets mindnumbingly dull in a very short space of time. The only time I do that at home is either when I'm running in a recently bought or serviced loco, or working on a bit of scenery, it is far more interesting to get trains to run with purpose, and educate the public about it in the meantime.

Oh dear, I think the EMD thread might get pretty big. A very common builder and lots of good models around. My EMD fleet at this time: SW900E (1x) SW1500 (2x) GP9 (4x) (and one on pre-order) SD9 (2x) F7 (A+B) (1x) F9 (A+B) (1x) E9 (1x) GP15-1 (2x) GP30 (1x) GP35 (2x) GP38-2 (2x) GP40 (3x) SD40R (2x) SD40T-2 (2x) All but one of the SD9's and both GP15-1 are Southern Pacific / Cotton Belt, and the F9 (A+B) is BN.

I Have several , all to be stripped, detailed and repainted. Alco S-4 (Atlas / Roco) Alco C428 (Atlas / Kato) Alco RS-1 (Atlas / Roco) Alco RS-3 (Bachmann , with Loksound Select). They will become a fleet of freelance RR units to operate along side my main Southern Pacific fleet. Koos

New announcement from Athearn, Always good to see of course, but what is different here is that also Athearn seems to have switched to ESU Loksound decoders, at least for this steamer. I personally applaud that change, they are excellent decoders. http://www.athearn.com/newsletter/112516/01_GEN_FEF_4-8-4_Northern_112516.pdf

You could also consider modeljunction from Slough, what they have is on the website, if it is not on the website, it is out of stock. They also have a section for some secondhand equipment, which means you can get a nice loco for less than it would normally cost you. Check them out at : www.modeljunction.info Koos EDIT: PS : They can also anything shown on the Walthers site, roughly expect to pay the same in GBP as shown in USD, but that's shipping and import taken care of too. Leadtimes might be a bit longer as they tend to order in batches to consolidate shipping / costs.

I've updated one of my locomotives with the new Full Throttle settings, it takes a little bit of getting used to, but on the whole I like it! On wards to the next one.

New Features coming to the ESU Loksound sound files soon, here's a demo video:

I have installed one sofar in a Proto2000 GP9, the motor control is a huge improvement over the current Tsunami's. Other functions are slightly limited , and it doesn't have the reverb/delay processors (it does have EQ), but some of the sounds have also been rerecorded or reprocessed as the horns don't sound as lifeless as they do on Tsunamis either. I'd suggest to try one out. Even Soundtraxx is aware of the issue, so much so that they're advertising the fact that the motor control has improved with this video, personally on the GP 9 I have, it runs even slower. Add some momentum and that slight 'jerk' from standstill to moving, is not noticeable.

I'm not sure, it can be done as a consist I'm sure, and the realism would be that they won't ramp up so much as they share the load, but the truth is that most cars are too light, even at NMRA recommended weights , to start having an effect until the train is getting rather long, and that's something not a lot of us have space for (your situation may be different of course). So for the typical layout size and train lengths I'd stick with individual calibration to actually be able to hear the effect of loading up the locos, but if you have a large layout or run long trains that have additional weight in them, then calibrating in a consist is also an option. I like Mike Confalone's approach to weights. I do something very similar. A 50' box car I increase to approx 200 grams, using wheel balancing weights that have a sticky backing. a 10 car train then weighs 2kg, and the locos have to work harder, the effect of mass in operations is more noticable, and the whole thing runs smoother.

If they don't fight each other then yes perhaps, but be aware that with WOW sound decoders, calibrating them does someone else too. It fine tunes the sound response to the actual load the motor is experiencing. When more amps are drawn due to starting a heavy train, the RPM sounds will increase. That's why they advise to do the calibration while pulling your heaviest train, or up a grade (or both). Doing with 3 units at once would mean they all weigh in and the response of RPM sounds won't be until much higher speed steps/loads as they don't need to work so hard. Therefore, I'd still calibrate them one by one, if you want to be able to enjoy the sounds (which is why you put sound decoders in them in the first place) and speed match them afterwards. hope this makes sense?

I agree Gary, they're usually less scratchy sounding. IF there is a downside to them, is that they can distort easier, so the volume values need to be reduced a bit compared to others. However that doesn't mean they are less loud per-se , and still more than loud enough for home use. I like them. I've recently installed 2 in one loco, and I saw Brian Banna install 4 in a GP35, it sounds great! :-)

Jacques, if the settings appear ok, it may also help to read ESU's manual notching guide for some pointers, to get you in the right direction. The manual is on this page: http://www.esu.eu/en/downloads/instruction-manuals/digital-decoders/ The important bit from that manual reads as follows: 2 function keys are required for MN to operate, one key for notch up, and the other key for notch down. MN can be engaged when the model is standing with engine running, or engaged on the y after moving o in the normal manner. When standing, press notch up, engine will notch up the drive RPM sound as determined by each drive step in the project. The number of notches increased depends on how long the key is engaged, and when the key is disengaged it will hold the notch it settles at. (With a little practice you will be able to “time” your desired notch.) You can then use the down notch key and reduce notch, or engage until RPM settles at idle. While running, operation is the same; engine sound is fully decoupled from locomotive speed, so you can now simulate the full spectrum of locomotive operation just as you can observe by watching operating prototype locomotives in action on the rails. Once you have engaged MN it stays in eect until the locomotive is brought to a stop, AND the sound is brought down to idle. Then the operation reverts to normal pre-manual notching behavior Hope that helps. Koos

hi jaques, I have had the same, In my case I had the function buttons programmed as 'latching', so with one press they stay active (similar as for lights), while you want just a pulse (like horns ), so check if that isn't the case? it will not notch down, as long as F9 (notch up) is still active for example, whichever was first. you can change that fucntion button latching behaviour within the programmer software. give that a try first. As for reasons for changing, you could also add the ease of which you can acchieve smooth (slow) running, without having to spend hours tweaking CV's. Thanks to CV54. In case you didn't know about the auto tune function. in POM mode Set CV54 = 0 , leave POM mode and press F1 (probably the bell), the loco will 'shoot' of for about 3 feet and then stop, the bell will ring a bit (as you had pressed F1 after all, or whatever other function is on F1 will happen) and the loco is now calibrated.

I've just installed a Loksound Select in a stock Bachmann RS3. While I am mostly modeling SP, I do like the RS3 and it's chugging sound, so that was a 'fix' I needed to get. A cheap deal for an RS 3 from a german store sealed my faith, and the creditcard was applied. I've used one sugarcube speaker in the long hood. Here's a quick demo. Apologies for the looooong horn. I was operating this from the ESU programmer on the laptop, while filming it with my phone... Now comes the task of superdetailing it, weathering, and most importantly, find a (freelance) scheme that i can apply that makes it believable to work in Western USA, interchanging with the SP. Koos

Indeed, I'm so accustomed to viewing US railroads on video etc nowadays, that the trains I see and hear here in Europe almost sound comical and almost 'cute' to me, a bit like that rather annoying advert on the TV 'I am Train' , beep beeeeep! I wish we could fit our railways with a couple of Leslie or Nathan 5 chimes instead ;-)