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  1. For the basic chassis wiring I fitted TSC 2 pin Micro connectors the red and black from the rail pickups to a male connector and the motor wired to a female connector. As these connectors have black and white colour wiring for the rail pick ups I used red to white and black to black and fro the motor connector black to -ve on the motor and white to +ve on the motor. When fitting the actual decoder the red and black wires went to female connector again black to black and red to white. For the motor wires the convention was decoder grey to male connector black and decoder orange to connector mal
  2. I have now finished the Loco but I just now need to catch up with the building progress write up so for this part I got the decoder and stay alive from Digitrains who as usual gave excellent service and prompt delivery. Regarding there stay alive they can now supply some very compact units such that for this project I am able to easily fit it in to the loco body. So I decided to fit the speaker in to the bunker this being a Lok Sound 50321 unit which can be made in to various combinations including very small indeed. I decided to fit the stay alive in to the smoke box area after I had run the
  3. I have finished the basic body structure I did notice that with the original type of bunker I decided to use for this loco that the overlays were slightly too long so I had to carefully trim them down on the cab ends also the bunker over lay I had to cut it in half and remove about 1 mm of material and then cut and shut it in place on the bunker. Regarding the chassis once I had put it together I had a pleasant shock when I connected the motor up to the power supply the chassis ran nice and smooth and all I had done was to open out the coupling rods to 1.7mm diameter as the Ultrascale cra
  4. Got the riveting done had to break it down as it sent my eyes funny as I fed the tank sides through my GW riving tool as most of the rivets are very close together in a double run if that makes sense. Then I got on with bending the tanks up using a 3/16” diameter forming rod resting in the what is best described as steps. The lower bend I used my vice and for the upper bend I used a drilling table which is now available from the Midland Centre as in the photo below. The trick is to make sure that the rod is fully home in the jig. Once this was done I got on with the basic assembly of the smoke
  5. If the springs seem too strong try Alan Gibson Buffer Springs in Phosphor Bronze if memory serves me. Use the adjusting screws so that it rides on the stops with the springs pushing the wheels down when the load comes off them.
  6. I have now as good as finished the chassis all I am going to do is reposition the reversing lever on the chassis so that it as close as possible lines up with the one on the footplate. Regarding Brasseys point about needing a drive stretcher I would agree from my trail assembly of the chassis it looks like the front of the gearbox will foul the front of the cab and also I think it needs to be higher so that the motor sits more in the boiler pannier part of the body. I have never been able to understand how the Horn block ties work in practice so I have made up wire bearing retainers which will
  7. I have now built the inside motion and after a bit of fettling I seem to have got it moving freely the acid test will be on the final assembly. I also assembled a Ultrascale wheel set using the GW quartering jig in order to do this I substituted the supplied cheese head 14BA bolts with 1/4” long countersunk 14BA bolts . This enables two things first the 1/4” length means that it will fit in to the crankpin slots in the jig as the supplied bolts are far too long and being counter sunk they clear the inside wheel to axle boss unlike the supplied one which would need either counter sinking on the
  8. Darwinain a nice loco there and thanks for the tip about the safety bracket so I will try to remember to fit this on when I fit the brake gear which will be after I have built the rest of the chassis. I am now reading the instructions for the inside motion this will keep me well out of trouble!
  9. I have now fitted the compensation beams theses being the one supplied separately and not the ones on the etch. In order to fit them I had to both open out the side slots in the middle frame spacer as well as carefully thin down the section of the compensation beams where they pass through the slots. Having done this I then made up the brake brackets and fitted them to the overlays before soldering the frame overlays on to the chassis. Having done this I then had to fettle some of the horn block slots as the frame overlays very slightly overlapped and thus caused the bearings to jam up. Once t
  10. I have fitted the horn blocks and made sure that the bearings a very slightly tight fit which either can be worked in by hand movement or very careful strokes a of a file. Having done this on the Avonside jig I assembled the basic chassis. Prior to assembly I fettled/broached out the frame spacer slots in the frame sides with and old 0.5mm diameter drill bit this ensured that the spacers and frames were a sung fit. Also I used a small engineers square to ensure that the chassis was square in all planes. The next thing to do will be the compensation beams and the frame overlays. Regarding using
  11. I have made up the coupling rods I had to be careful soldering up the forked joints just a very quick application of the soldering iron on the back however I oiled up the rest of the joint so as to ensure that solder did not go where it was not wanted. The basic frames have been drilled and cleaned up as well as the rear horn blocks fitted. The next stage will be to get out my Avonside Jig and set it up using the coupling rods as the basis and then fir the rest of the horn blocks and bearings which I have marked up with my own code of drill marks recorded on the instruction diagram for the cha
  12. Hi there It is some time since I have posted here and I am going to be building a Martin Finney 2721 0-6-0 Pannier tank to P4 Standards using Ultrascale wheels fully working inside motion DCC controlled with working headlamps glowing firebox and sound. The first thing I am going to do is assemble the coupling rods and then use them to set up my Avonside Chassis Jig for assembly of the chassis using the compensation method.
  13. See if I can embed the file At last I seem to have got it to work they way I want hope you like it . The film consists of short segments filmed with my digital camera and then pasted together. Later this week I will post some more photos of the Dean Goods plus comments on what I have learned from this build
  14. At last I have finished the loco. Fitting the decoder was fun as it was a case of carefully feeding the decoder, stay alive and lighting connector through the firebox in to the boiler and then the motor. As the smoke box door was not fitted I was able to using tweezers pull these components through. I had to tape the various wires from the pick ups , firebox LED and wires to the speaker in the tender to the sides of the motor so as to make installation as easy as possible. Even though I have noticed that all these wires do tend to stiffen up the compensation of the chassis. As you can see from
  15. I am now on the basic painting stage as can be seen from the photos all I have to do now is to tidy up the paint work and then gloss varnish the body’s ready for the transfers and number plates to be fitted. Also the second photo shows how I have in effect removed what I would call the bulk head between the smoke box and boiler this I hope will make it easier to fit the decoder and stay alive unit as well as all the other connectors and wiring. Whilst waiting for paint to dry I have got the Zimo Decoder MX649 loaded with sounds for a Collet 0-6-0 as I did not realise that they also had slide v
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