GWR_NZ

Years ago I found this US site offering rivets (and other scale model hardware). While aimed at the model car modeller some may be suitable for model railways https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware/rivets Edmund

May try a new PL-26 that I have as the PL-26 I am using is recycled Thanks.

Yes they are linked. Thanks

Hi, I'm wiring a Dapol signal using a Peco PL-26 passing contact switch but I find it unreliable - it doesn't always change position when the lever is thrown (I've also tried a push button and momentary switch which are more reliable). The PL-26 is recycled so cannot voucher for the condition of the switches internals. Can anyone comment on using the PL-26 with the Dapol signals and what has been their experience. Would prefer to use the PL-26 as it looks more prototypical but not if it is unreliable. The PL-26's that I use for switching points seem far more reliable. Is it possibly a dud switch?

Is this the trader ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234398001509?hash=item369335a965:g:PJQAAOSwUzFhGqH0&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA0PK5jhVrZo35cKTmzgJqBeSsFHXj%2FhD2ysyj%2FAJiHcN8dr10mZFWHUSeu04dNUgKCi%2Bp7qziL0nu9MR7xIRMrUmNZUpNIU0jmxcaTeXpY71%2FoJiVz9Il8ZBQ9tBsc5Bm3%2BigEMDf0Q7zjH0izK33jrxgyGaz9s0BQuWUPIWjkrS9qukwaZum95M08wzTwCd3cYGKgF0vDdh0TErQve378LHIDGbjaqLFDv25n1YsSNrrh4OewL0X%2FYa5kPjokL6p8qzLNbD6T4HQ7dZIYRwCEZY%3D|tkp%3ABFBM9oXf2adh

Hi, Consider the Bexhill West ballast vacuum system James has several videos on the system he developed , including a link to a shop where he sells the system. Usual disclaimer applies,,,,

Just a quick update on one way to plant a building in the landscape. Borrowed the idea from someone on YouTube . The idea is to cut a bit of material (in this case black perspex) approximately the same shape and size as the building , embed in the landscape which gives a flat surface on which to plant the building. Disguise the join between the building and the perspex as required.

I have recently had a very similar issue with no tracks volts with my SPROG. Firstly I made an assumption that there was track voltage all the time i now know that is not true. While Goggling for an answer I found this thread. This gave me a hint of what my be causing the fault. I checked preferences / default in Decoder Pro and while is said SPROG I suspect it was actually set to internal. Saved settings. Decoder Pro restarted and track power was restored. Running JMRI 4.22

Just an update to show the completed perspex fences. After much procrastination and a bit of over engineering the perspex fences have been installed. I learnt that when scoring and bending to break the perspex it is best to clamp the perspex when bending between two solid (in my case a bit of 3"x 1" timber and aluminium L channel) bits of material to get a clean break. The aluminium L channel needs to be painted to complete.

For my work bench I use one of these https://daylightcompany.com/slimline-3-table-lamp/ Expensive yes - but very good. Very good light and I can now see what I am doing. I also considered this model https://daylightcompany.com/lumi-task-lamp/

Hi, I have been experimenting bonding / glueing styrene to plywood. I tried using a spray adhesive ADOS Multi-purpose spray adhesive - soaked up by the plywood with no grip at all to the styrene. Second attempt used Selleys Liquid Nails - not sure if this is available in the UK. First attempt - bonded well to the ply but not the styrene. Second attempt roughed up the styrene with 60 grit sandpaper. Much better bond - now bond failure is with the plywood. Third attempt will be rough up both surfaces with 60 grit sandpaper and try again. The question I have is has anyone used such adhesives and what was the long term bond like (or any better idea's?) Thanks Edmund

Hi, Can someone please suggest a suitable decoder for a Bachmann Hall ( the original prototype version). There are plenty of web pages devoted to advising how to install a decoder and I understand how it should be installed. I've tried a Bachmann 36-553 and a Hattons 8 pin decoder - neither fit very well, if at all. I was looking at a Zimo MX622R. Can anyone advise if this is a suitable decoder. Thanks in advance. Edmund

Thanks for all the comments. I've made a mock-up for the fences in card and also using 20mm by 12mm aluminium L shaped angel. The card is 40mm above the cork and I think is still to high. The aluminium angel looks much better but perhaps a little low. 30mm maybe about right. Thanks Edmund

Consider using a bit of lead. Had a similar problem with the Bachmann 43xx and the front bogie - added a bit of lead improved performance considerably. Edmund

Hi, I'm looking a installing some Perspex fence's on parts of my layout to prevent the unfortunate consequence if a engine should de-rail and then proceed to fall to the floor. Has anyone got experience of how high the fence should be. I've mocked them up in card and 80mm seems to high. Was thinking more of 50mm. If to high there is a risk of snagging myself or clothing on the corners as they are mainly for around a lift-up bridge section. Any thoughts ? Thanks Edmund

I have seen layout fascia's that have been stained and varnished - I didn't think they looked good. I personally have painted my fascia black which highlights the edge of the board and make the viewer focus on the layout itself. Just my two pence worth. Happy new year to all Edmund

I would also like to see the results - I have been considering using this method since I found it on YouTube.

Hi, I think I had this same issue - please read the posts under my thread - hopefully this is the same issue (with the same fix) Edmund

I have used single sided copper PCB, packed with styrene so the copper surface is just beneath the rails. The PCB is screwed to the baseboard. The rail is soldered to the PCB with appropriate cuts for electrical connectivity. Admittedly this is on a lift up bridge so cosmetic issues are not the same. Alignment by barrel slide bolt.

Will depend mainly on the framing and most importantly where the baseboards are stored. If in a damp environment would advise against using MDF ( I use 9mm ply). Having said that part of my layout uses 18mm MDF (part of a lift up bridge) and it has been stable with no issues (touch wood).

No specific links or creators - I just search in Shapeways - which can be a bit hit and miss (read you get a lot of irrelevant products)

Shapeways has some bodyline kits depending on the company you wish to model. Never tried them myself (but do covert a few models).

I am getting to the point where I have to look at ballasting my layout. I too am procrastinating. Currently have Auhagen TT ballast as my preferred ballast (I like the idea of adding weathering powders - which shades do you use?). As for a ballast spreader I'm looking at making a ballast vacuum I'm hoping this will solve the problem of "stray" ballast on the sleepers. As for painting the track I've purchased Model Master Tie Brown and will paint the track before applying ballast and then weather. Now to stop procrastinating ( I'm currently testing the track to make sure it all works as expected).

My initial attempt to mount the Tortoise point motors involved me underneath my layout on my mechanics creeper using eyeball mk1 to align the piano wire actuator. The point motors were mounted on thin ply and then attached to the baseboard using Velcro. The problem I faced was that the tension from the piano wire would mean the the point motor would eventually be found hanging underneath the baseboard as the alignment wasn't good enough. Searching the InterWeb I found several jigs to align the pint motor http://www.vikaschander.com/points-and-tortoises-install/ https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/17165 and someone on Feabay is selling a jig https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tortoise-Switch-Machine-Drill-Jig-with-mounting-screws-drill-bit-/291273710283 All these solutions provide an accurate way of aligning the point motor during track laying but not for retro fitting. I do not claim to have invented this idea ( but I can't remember where I read of this on the InterWeb) . Anyway, here is my take. Modifying a Kadee couple height gauge (#205) to create an alignment jig to improve the the alignment of the piano wire actuator - here a picture is worth a thousand words... Using the jig has enabled me to align the point motors far more accurately than using eyeball mk1. The point motors are still attached using Velcro (and I've added a couple screws to secure the point motors). The point motors are not as well aligned as could be achieved using any ofthe jigs - but I don't have the resources (or the skills) to make either of the jigs above. Hope this helps someone. Edmund

Hi, I have the double tunnel portal from the Hornby Skaledale range in red brick. While the brick colour is good the factory weathering less so. Has anyone repainted Skaledale tunnel portals or brick wall and it so which products did you use.The main concern is losing the detail in a coat of paint. Thanks.