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About Rowsley17D

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    North Yorkshire (very near Lancashire & Cumbria too)
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  1. I think I may have cracked the jerky 2F but time will tell. In a break from trying to get the 2F going, I stuck the first ID Backscenes' "Tall Trees" in place, added some buildings courtesy of @kirtleypete, which are not in their final place, to see how things looked. I cut quite a section off bottom of the sheet to fit my backboards, some of the trees look too high and I may have to add some more cloud cover.
  2. Back to investigating the cause of sticking. I've taken all the rods off and then with just the front set on and turning one set of wheels by hand all is well. With just the two sets of rear wheels coupled, this is where the sticking occurs, twice with each wheel revolution, so the problem lies with the coupling rods. Although the centre of the crank pin holes line up with the axle centres the holes themselves are very oversize. Romford crank pins are 1mm but the hole in the rods are up to 1.5mm, so some bushing is required.
  3. Looks good in the photos, Chris. Nice blend of different colours and not too uniform.
  4. Thanks @Regularity. The wheels stick at 10 to and 20 past. The chassis freewheels well but then all wheels are in contact with the rails. I'm going to remove the front rods sometime and try it as a 0-4-0. The wheels are Romfords so I'm not suspecting the quartering.
  5. Well, I have tried all sorts to get the 2F running without success. It seems to stick twice for each revolution of the driving wheels. I lifted the gearbox another thou clear of the cogs in the chassis but they didn't engage, so returned the originals which were 20thou not 10. I tried lifting the worm off the gearbox cog with a 10thou plastic shim but this did not help either, nor did lowering it with a 10thou shim. I will convert it back to DC and see what happens on the rolling road. On the rolling road with all drivers on rollers it still sticks, remove the rollers under the mid
  6. @MrWolf and @lezz01 thanks for your replies. There are 3 gear wheels to the drive. 2 are mounted in the frames and appear to run well and true, the third is in the gear box which is driven by the worm as usual. There are 2 pieces of plastic strip under the gear box and glued where it's mounted to the frame, 10thou thick? I wonder if these are either too thick or too thin? I'm going to take them out and see what happens. The engine has hardly run so I doubt any bearings are worn.
  7. One of those modelling days I sooner forget. I have an 00 works 2F 0-6-0 which has never run properly. I thought it was due to pick-up problems as it picks up tender one side and engine the other. I put extra pick-ups on the tender but still it stuttered and stalled. Took the motor out and it ran sweetly enough. The engine with the motor out free-wheels easily enough so no problem with quartering. With power on collecting current via the tender but with the engine lifted off the track no problems, put the engine back on the track, stuttering again. It's as if the gears bind I can hear the moto
  8. Ah! Beat you Jeff. I got started on baseboards on page 3 of my thread, but then I didn't have as many folk contributing as you have had. It must be good to have started something more layout related although I regard room prep as much part of the modelling as building baseboards, laying track, etc.
  9. A good iron (not the one for clothes) good flux and solder and you should be away with your skills. If unsure, why not get a metal wagon kit and try that first. What is it btw?
  10. Early evening branch shuttle gets the off as the autumn gloom descends.
  11. Good to catch-up, Paul, more later. An atmospheric shot as night falls. The mid-evening local to Millers Dale gets the off. The bank has received greenery further along.
  12. Those ID Backscenes look good. I used Hills & Dales on my last layout. I was going to ask which scene you used but I see from the ID website that there is a new one (to me) Just Trees which will be ideal for my current build, thanks for sharing. Do you know how the turnout on the bridge will be operated as there seems little depth to hide a motor/servo. DCC Concepts working point rodding?
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