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Rowsley17D

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Everything posted by Rowsley17D

  1. Major diy stores should sell it along with superglue. B&Q usually stock it. I've had some years bought at York show along with Powerbond superglue.
  2. Have you got or can get hold of de-bonder? It'll soften the superglue and all should be easier to part from each other.
  3. Good solution, I might have a go at that myself.
  4. With the rear brake hangers only the bottom of the hanger would be visible so that's why I didn't bother trying to fit any. For me it was the guard irons that got in the way. I did contemplate gluing the lower part of the hangers to the back of the rear steps but it would mean they were too far out of line with the wheels.
  5. The postie dropped off my two D1666 wagons this lunchtime. Very pleased with them. Here they are with a kit-built version. The brake gear is the finest I've seen on a rtr model. Here compared with a Bachmann wagon.
  6. Sale now pulled by the seller.
  7. We must have been posh at my primary school as our milk was served in glasses. They didn't hold 1/3 pint and the excess was used to make custard. The milk came to school in a small churn straight from the farm, TT tested. So that's why few of us needed the BCG jab at secondary school (which did have 1/3 pt bottles.)
  8. Fireman's view as his engine backs on to his train.
  9. I'd forgotten about those photos you took a while back.
  10. No doubt there would have been a banner repeater signal the other side of the bridge.
  11. You're getting there, Graham. We'll have you over to the (black) dark side yet.
  12. I think this is the link you meant. http://www.sutherland.davenportstation.org.uk/aaprint/ash.html Photo about 1/2 way down the page.
  13. That's right. The white block is a piece of Plastistrut square section tube. I threaded the brake hangers on 0.7mm wire set at the width of the tyres. They were stuck with superglue gel. The pull rods should be 0.45mm wire but I found some of the holes in the hangers too big. The square section tube was welded to the underside of the tender and when all had set, the brakes were leant against the wheels and the pivot wire (although it doesn't pivot of course) glued to the Plastistrut. Just before the glue went off I made sure the wheels would turn freely.
  14. If it's any help, this is how I fitted them. As you can see I didn't bother with the rear pair as the guard irons got in the way and they would be hidden by the rear steps anyway.
  15. I think Graham meant the tender was produced without the brakes being modelled.
  16. They are from http://www.alangibsonworkshop.com/ at the top of page 19 of the catalogue.
  17. Front lamp irons have been added. A bit over-scale though. Brakes and sandboxes and pipes added too. A right fiddly job. and to the tender. Coming together nicely.
  18. Slide bars is what you're looking for.
  19. A bit more done to the 2P. The kit came without con rods so the Hornby ones have been used. I also found some axle end covers in my spares box and there are balance weights on the etch too. Wires have been soldered to the pick-ups and motor. The back-head has had some paint. The tender has had the DCC gubbins arranged. I added a "floor" to the tender chassis and then glued on an old coach weight. There's still plenty to do before I join up the wires: brakes, front lamp irons, real coal, crew and weathering to name but a few.
  20. I found that DCC Concepts boards which join the decoder to the capacitors do get warm to the touch. Most engines so fitted are metal so the heat dissipates okay.
  21. Change of plan. I got the loco put together with motor in place and DCC Concepts gubbins in the smokebox. It ran well on the rollers but the board that joins the decoder to the stay-alive got very warm and nicely heated up the smokebox to the touch. A bit too much realism. All is now going into the tender where there's plenty of room for air to circulate.
  22. The decoder and stay-alive fit nicely into the smokebox with the rear facing gearbox in the front part of the boiler. There's plenty of room in the firebox for lead.
  23. Back to the 2P. The High Level Kits' HiFlier arrived and I found it fits motor forward into the smokebox which means I can get some serious weight above the drivers and avoid the nose-heavy problem 4-4-0s usually have.
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