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David41283

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  1. The link seems to be broken? I’m intrigued….
  2. I have finally set up on youtube in order to facilitate posting some videos on here - here are some very short phone clips of the layout working at the show.
  3. Funnily enough I was invited to another local show by a visitor on Saturday, but I couldn't accept due to scheduling issues. Watch this space however...
  4. So, 7 months on from the last post on this thread, I have just been to my first exhibition in 3 years. I was booked for the Calne show which was due to take place in a couple of weeks, but sadly this one was cancelled, but I was then invited to an exhibition in Yealmpton just outside Plymouth which did go ahead on Saturday. I eventually did get round to fitting some more Dapol uncoupling magnets which worked well over the weekend. Here are some photos of the layout set up on Saturday. For a small village hall event, it was really well attended. Interesting that demand was up, probably due to the lack of exhibitions for a couple of years, rather than down due to covid fears. As ever lots of people stopped to chat and ask questions about the layout. It was a really enjoyable day.
  5. That's an entirely fair question, to which I'm afraid I don't know the answer. I'm not the organiser, I just offered to publicise the event here. Perhaps try giving the shop a ring on 01752 665007 I know they are there today packing up for the show tomorrow. From previous years, this is usually a very quiet affair in a school/community hall, so even pre-covid social distancing wouldn't have been a problem. Sorry I can't be of further help.
  6. Exhibition in Yealmpton, just outside Plymouth on Saturday 9th October. Organised by Chris' Crafts and Model Railways model shop in Plymouth. Yealmpton Community Centre, Stray Park Road, Yealmpton, Devon PL8 2HF OPENING TIMES: 10.00 am-1500 pm ADMISSION: Adults £2.50 Concessions £2.50 Children £2.50 Family £5.00 13 layouts ranging from N, HO, OO, O, G scale, and 3 traders. Refreshments available, Accompanied children (U14) free. One of the layouts will be my layout Invernevis which is on RM web here.
  7. On the coupling front, I have turned my attention to electromagnets. The official PK magnets seem to have sold out at the supplier. Gaugemaster offer an alternative - the EM1 which has the added advantage of working on the 16v accessory feed already installed on the layout for the point motors. However I feel these are overpriced at £11-£12 each for what they are. There are numerous threads about making your own electromagnets, but all require a greater degree of electrical understanding than I posses, to work out the number of windings, resistance etc.. I also like the idea of using a power source already in place, rather than adding another. On this basis I picked up a few of these very cheaply - all three costing less than 1 Gaugemaster EM1 magnet. I figured that these were suitable coils, which I knew worked with a 16v supply through a push-to-make switch. They come apart very easily. And through separating the coils, and recycling the PCB base I made this with the addition of a 3.5mm diameter nail. After setting up a quick test rig - it works. The coil did get a quite warm, but then I did activate it an awful lot of times in a few minutes while testing, and my method of touching wires together to provide the current was probably a bit less controlled than a push-to-make switch. In my simple world, this seems a good solution - if anyone who understands these things better than me can see an impending disaster, please let me know!
  8. After getting hold of some 0.8mm brass wire, I had a go at making some NEM compatible DG couplings, as per Dave Searle's method for Hinksey Yard posted further up this thread. The coupling requires cutting down quite a lot to fit, I soldered the wire on slightly over length, then trimmed it back to fit. The big problem I found with this was the force needed to clip the coupling into the NEM socket was so great it was very difficult to avoid distorting the coupling itself - as can be seen by the mangled example above. I tried a few items of rolling stock and found all equally stiff when trying to clip into the socket. I was hoping this would prove easier than packing the pocket with plasticard, or a full conversion involving removal of the moulded coupler pocket.
  9. Thank you. Although your photo would suggest you had managed to bend the roof the right shape and get the body profile right, which I found one of the hardest parts. The noses and other parts on mine have been aided by milliput to fill gaps and get the shape right. I was actually quite impressed with etched brass as a material to be honest. (about 50 years late to the party, I know!) - it's strength but also how well it can be filed and shaped too. I did a fair bit of reading about etched kit construction and invested the princely sum of about £20 in what I felt would be essential equipment - I bought some 145 degree solder and some liquid acid flux from Eileens Emporium and a new 2.3mm chisel bit for my basic 25w Antex soldering iron. The brush-on flux and low-melt solder made a massive difference I believe, especially as I had a relatively low-powered soldering iron.
  10. Aside from my coupling experiments, I have had another side project on the go for the last few weeks, which now it has not been a disaster is at a stage to share. I just got a first coat of primer on this morning, and there are still a few bits which require a little more filling and filing, but overall I think this will look the part. It is built in etched brass, my first go at such a kit, using Worsley Works "scratch aid" parts. Other details are from the spares box or made from styrene. I have a new Dapol cl 33 chassis bought from Dapol Spares at DCC Supplies from which I have filed a few mm off each side to fit, so it should run nicely too. I reckon I've just increased the chances of Dapol announcing an N gauge 29 in the next 6 months by about 500% too!
  11. I spent today having a better go with the DGs. To be honest, once I took a few minutes to do the soldering properly, it was easy. A quick wipe of the wires with a fibreglass pen, tinned both ends and the loop and dropper went together really nicely. Again a little more time on each loop and they were also a lot more consistent. I made up 7 couplings in an hour and fitted a latch only coupling to a farish 08 using plasticard pack into the NEM pocket as per Keith's method above. I was able to get them working on my little "lockdown layout" even with it's settrack curves and permanent Dapol magnets. I did get some buffer locking when pushing wagons, but I don't think DGs were ever designed with trainset curves in mind!
  12. That's a great idea, I had assumed I'd use a chemical blackening solution, but I'll try a permanent marker.
  13. For interest here is a comparison photo: From left to right. 1. DG coupling (an early one with a wonky wire loop!) 2. MBD latch end 3. MBD loop end. 4. B&B coupling. In this photo the B&B has an unfair advantage, as it is pre-coloured, but I do feel it looks as discreet as the DG, the MBD loop is a bit bigger than both. Overall the DG is the simplest to put together and I think the most pragmatic and forgiving in use. I can see why it seems to be the most popular as their simplicity means there is scope for flexibility. I guess this is "horses for courses" to a certain degree. Each type has it's supporters and detractors, each design has it's strengths and weaknesses. If I had any knowledge of CAD or product design I would be taking the best features of each and designing something to be mass-manufactured in plastic (perhaps with metal loop and latch) with a variety of NEM fittings.
  14. You read my mind - I have had a go at a few hybrids in pursuit of my ideal coupling! None quite fit however, and this would double the cost per coupling. I haven't given up on the BB's, some of their features I prefer to the other designs. I've made 5 or 6 now and I think they're getting more consistent. That said I find they require the most precision in terms of height and uniformity in order to work when compared to the DG and MBD which are a bit more forgiving.
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