[Ruston's Industrial locomotive and wagon workshop thread.]

That's why we give you steel screws and brass nuts.

[Ruston's Industrial locomotive and wagon workshop thread.]

1 hour ago, Barclay said:

Part of me wants you to try it !

I would be more inclined to curl that gearbox round as Mike says - maybe drive the back axle and put the motor under the short bonnet? Traditional compensation, at least how I do it, is made much more tricky by the split axles, but maybe CSBs are the answer in this instance? Disclaimer - I've never used them and don't intend to, but the people who like them really like them!

I think you would have to joint the rods though to allow flexibility.

Looking forward to developments.

There's even less room in the fuel tank end and more open space in the cab so I can't see what would be gained there.

[Ruston's Industrial locomotive and wagon workshop thread.]

1 hour ago, Ruston said:

I think that's what I may do. It wouldn't be possible if I was to spring that axle but as the rods are designed to be built as one piece items I'm not going to bother with springing the centre axle. I'll just build the chassis as intended, cram the body full of weight and see how it goes.

 

Or... Would compensation still work with the solid rods and could both outer axles rest on knife edges, or would that be too unstable?

No, compensation/springing won't work with fixed rods but you can articulate them on the centre crankpin by cutting one layer behind the middle and the other layer in front of it. It's not mentioned in the instructions because this early kit was only designed to be built rigid. All our more recent ones are designed with compensation in mind. This is what it looks like from the top.

More than one axle on a knife edge is unstable as you suspect.

[Wright writes.....]

Both rack and adhesion, possibly like the Nilgiri one (see nicktoix on here) the upper rack drive runs in the opposite direction to the wheel drive.

[Ruston's Industrial locomotive and wagon workshop thread.]

Can’t you swing the bottom part of the gearbox round so that it’s underneath the motor? Then turn it round so that the motor fits towards the radiator end. Alternatively drive on the centre axle and if the gearbox is too high it can hide under the control desk.

[Interesting and inspiring photos from Flickr....]

3 hours ago, Blandford1969 said:

Blank Frank loved his Princess, it was dumped on the car park for long enough in the 90s!

I liked mine until it suddenly started to rust from the inside out - typical Longbridge product of the time when bodyshells were left out in a field before painting.

[Cycling chat]

The weather looks good but it was cold and windy, I’ve got another layer on under that red jersey.

[Wright writes.....]

1 hour ago, cctransuk said:

 

No  - you are correct with 5/32"; I blame age!

 

CJI.

Triang axles are 9/64in

[Cycling chat]

Today in Jersey

Not one but two almost identical Claud Butlers. My son found the red one on Ebay and restored it - both of these (and this rider!) well over 70 years old. Mid way round a very nice 25 mile ride, St Catherines breakwater in the background.

[What's on your 3mm workbench]

I did this myself with a Kitmaster J94 and after some years it did an impression of a boiler explosion. More recently a loco I had built came back to me with its bunker sides and ends forced apart after being filled with lead shot an PVA, this after less than a year -  was very difficult to get it out to tepair it as well. I don’t know exactly what happens but there’s definitely a chemical reaction of some sort.

[Mid-Cornwall Lines - 1950s Western Region in 00]

A razor saw will do it but maybe you haven't got one of those either. It saws a slot in the gearwheel as well but that doesn't matter.

[Dave F's photos - ongoing - more added each day]

1 hour ago, DaveF said:

 

 

 

I've had a look and haven't got any more photos of the loco.  According to the IRS Industrial Locomotives 1979 Raine & Co Ltd, Delta Iron and Steel Works, Blaydon had 3 0-4-0 dieslel electrics shunters.

 

They are shown as:

Brush 339 /Beyer Peacock 7946 of 1961

Brush 340 /Beyer Peacock 7947 of 1961 (dismantled by 1979)

Brush 443 /Beyer Peacock 7873  of 1962

 

There are three photos by Murray Liston on flickr:  

https://www.flickr.com/photos/188593380@N02/50789261713/in/photolist-2ko92Q5-2ko5f36-2ko9C2x-e8AVSP

https://www.flickr.com/photos/188593380@N02/50790116137/in/photolist-2ko92Q5-2ko5f36-2ko9C2x-e8AVSP

https://www.flickr.com/photos/188593380@N02/50790001096/in/photolist-2ko92Q5-2ko5f36-2ko9C2x-e8AVSP

 

I hope this is useful.

 

David

Thanks Dave, very useful.

[Mid-Cornwall Lines - 1950s Western Region in 00]

The way to deal with the stupidly long grubscrews is to tighten them, cut them off flush and saw a new slot in with a piercing saw. If the griubscrew was entirely in the hole as it should be it wouldn't shear off (as I'm sure you know).

[Dave F's photos - ongoing - more added each day]

C6341 shows a Brush 200hp 0-4-0DE, possibly ex Parkgate judging by the shape of the back windows - do you have any more photos of this? I wasn't aware of one these working at Derwnthaugh.

[Ruston's Industrial locomotive and wagon workshop thread.]

As he said, only with the gearbox - but they are then incredibly powerful.

[What's on your 3mm workbench]

1 hour ago, Phil Mason said:

I'm sure you'll sort it out on this one but do remember in future I've a load of sheet lead which may be easier to use. 
 

Must admit I'm not a fan of liquid lead because the glue (even if you use PVA) can have a habit of getting in places it shouldn't and there's less opportunity to mess about as you go. 
 

As you say, the problems with the 08 are very subtle. It may right itself with prolonged running in. However, my N gauge Hunslet (which I think suffered from a similar problem) wouldn't even drive far enough on any sort of track to get itself run in! 
 

Phil

Never use PVA glue on lead, it will expand and can easily destroy a model. Sometimes they look as if they have exploded - which they have, albeit slowly!

[70s Industrial steam]

Hunslet were still experimenting with underfeed stokers as late as 1983 in Yorkshire collieries.

[Lime Street Station]

It's a shame you're not taking Lime Street out anymore but just to dispel one very common myth about van hire, Enterprise have no age limit for drivers - and the service is excellent.

[Mid-Cornwall Lines - 1950s Western Region in 00]

5 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

Grand spraying weather today, so the chassis is now all black. More when I've unmasked the axle bearings and the pickup pads.

 

Quick question for the panel: soldering whitemetal - Carr's Red Label or phosphoric acid?

Phosphoric acid for everything, throw the Carrs stuff out (they never tell you what it is)

[Hunslet 16" 0-6-0 Saddle Tank - 00 Gauge]

On 03/04/2024 at 10:05, BVMR21 said:

Was doing some research and came across this picture from Ebbw Vale Steelworks of a 16" Hunslet, allegedly works number 2082. (Photo is from the Ebbw Vale Works Museum Facebook Page).

Yes, this is HE 2082, sent away 24/10/1940, although this is a much later photo. it was back at Jack Lane for fitting of blast furnace anti glare and a horn in 1953 so the photo might have been taken after that.

[Mid-Cornwall Lines - 1950s Western Region in 00]

That all looks strong enough, I wouldn't use plastic brake gear for anything now.

[What's on your 3mm workbench]

Put some graphite on the track and see what a difference that makes.

[Judith Edge kits]

Looks good, thanks for posting the pictures.

[Interesting and inspiring photos from Flickr....]

12 hours ago, lmsforever said:

What has repled the crossing and has the litter gone ?

A very expensive new footbridge, I like it but it’s not universally popular here. Almost every building in that photo has gone, a new station/bus station and platform appeared and most of the town centre rebuilt.

[Interesting and inspiring photos from Flickr....]

Not all that long ago but just about everything in this photo has changed since then! Even Jumble Lane crossing has gone now.