fulton

Have a Ford one in my van, would also be intetested in alternatives, as images can only be accessed via the app, takes forever and a bit of a faff.

I've been surprised at the excellent results on Youtube taken with a phone, I was expecting the film maker to have " better" equipment, but it was a phone.

It will be interesting to read the enquiry report, into what actually happened and why, rather than speculation and conjecture in the news and social media.

Cornwall Model Boats have a large range, not scaled at 4mm, I chose the smaller versions, sometimes listed as 1/96, a bollard is the same in any scale just different sizes, Langley Models also do a range, lots available from Shapeways, again 1/96, but some items getting expensive.

Never presprayed, no problems, I always use stone ballast, tried another material once with poor results, maybe that did need a prespray.

Central Hall Westminster, helping on the Chatham Clubs Heathfield layout, I was a junior member then.

Have fond memories of those shows, in particular the Rubarb Crumble in the army mess!

Lots of good advice above, some skill is required to have a reliable, smooth running locomotive, you will obtain those skills by reading up and practice, take easy steps, I would say I am an experianced modeller, but I still find loco kits etched or white metal hard work, but rewarding in the end, good luck.

I use Smiths couplings, yes the normal version is over scale, but at least that gives you half a chance to use them, I would sooner have that comprimise than have an unprototypical alterative, thats my personel view, I use an LED pen torch with a bent wire soldered on to use them, works for me, I like to uncouple where required rather than where the magnets are, having said that I use Kadees on by American layout.

Just to add, I travel with Eurotunnel every couple of months, sending this from Germany, did once have my car Xrayed, seemed a novelty to the Frence Police as well, my van sometimes gets pulled over looking for stowaways, I travel on an EU passport, so it just gets scanned, UK passports get stamped as well, but that will be changing sometime when all the tech for finger prints is in place.

Just to check are your model sleepers plastic, ply or wood? if plastic I paint with dark brown, if ply or wood I have given them a thin wash of dark brown.

I use thin tissue/ tracing paper, the type of thing kits were wrapped in, sprayed black, then lettered by hand using an Epping 0.7mm white gel pen, once crinkled up, the hand lettering looks OK to me, some tarps have various lines as well as lettering, tying ropes (I think called cords in this situation) are glued on, will post photo when back in the UK.

Thank you, my Dad worked at Shorts and related sheltering in the underground bit during an air raid.

Interested where this has come from, yes some are known or rumored, living there and working on construction projects there for thirty years never encounted any tunnels, sink holes not uncommon around the Frindsbury Hill area.

This has come up before, I think the conclusion was that there was very little reduction in cost, but the buyer as you say, expected a good discount, works in the American market as the volume of sales is so much larger, I hate to paint over a nicely applied factory livery just seems wrong.

Just to clarify pre Brexit EU citizens could enter the UK using their ID card, which is compulsorily to have in some EU countries, so did not need a passport.

Nice build, I am building the Impetus 16" Hunslet, I also have the Sentinel kit which is designed to drive on both axles, I bought the kit in 1990, in the box is my original SAE (stamped addressed envelop, remember them) from Robin giving the prices, Sentinel kit plus Tenshodo motor, gears, EM wheels, £52+£1 p&p, I needed to supply Sharman 2x24 tooth gears £1.10 each. Around that time I also built his 16" Bagnal, which I still have, I think 1991, it was running on a friends layout at EXPOEM, Robin remarked it was the first one to be finished and he had sold one more of the twelve kits he had produced in that run. I lost interest in British 4mm modelling and tried selling various kits, the offers were insultingly low, so everything went into storage, now twenty years later I am back into British 4mm, pleased I kept the kits!

Similar to above, I paint sleepers first, the rails/chairs then ballast, I try to "plant" things like point rodding bases then ballast around them, to try to get away from the stuck on afterwards look, in this picture have used block paving sand to represent Dungeness beach shingle, favoured by the SECR.

My plates from Light Railway Stores, like Willl, were from their standard custom range, not exactly correct, but for myself quite acceptable, much better than the printed ones, the SE&CR Society has come to the conclusion, subject to more information, that the plates were, cast metal not brass, painted grey with white border and letters.

There have been some recent articles in the SE&CR Society Invicta magazines on this subject, but no clear close up views of the plates, seems they were painted grey with white border and lettering, I had these plates made by Light Railway Stores, I need to paint the border and lettering white, they were cast metal (presumably cast iron). I did originally go for red with brass lettering, my D1 needs to be corrected.

Except some/most/all modern gas hobs require an electric supply before the gas valve will open.

Not just the tax implication, I had a spell working in a DWP office and a small increase can mean other benefits being reduced or stopped, then, if say your hours drop, you can be in a real mess sorting it out, if you are in a minimum wage job it can be a trap that's very difficult to get out of.

Must say I did not get on with foam board, many people have good results with it, my preferred material is mounting board, braced on the inside with more mounting board, glued with PVA, sealed all over, inside and out with Halfords spray primer, have constructed some quite large buildings with it, outside finished with Scalescenes downloads printed on thin card.

To me, less is more, try not to fill the space up with track, more sidings does not necessarily mean more car spots, I found the Lance Mindheim books to very helpful, my own layout based on a prototype location serves a pesticide distributors, tank cars, a potato and onion distributors, box cars and reefers, and a timber truss manufacturer, flat cars and centre beams. I only have four points on the scenic area, serving the three customers, but it still provides plenty of enjoyable switching.

I suspect the Southern Railway fencers dug their post holes exactly the same way you would manually do it today, using a post hole digger, sort of two grafts fixed together, a graft is a type of spade/shovel for heavy digging and a post hole chisel bar, good for getting through rock, stone, light concrete, on site we called the post hole bar, a pin, they were 5' long and weighed at least 20kg.