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fulton

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Everything posted by fulton

  1. Time goes on but I think very little changes, the youth of today are little different to my young days, yes old people were young once, at that time I had no interest in the current railway scene, but an interest in history, always fascinated by old photos which lead me to a lifetimes interest in pre grouping railways, for me my local railway the SECR.
  2. Lots of good points made, just a comment, I did woodwork and metalwork at school, helps with baseboards but not a lot of use for the metalwork, unless you do model engineering, for my 4mm modelling I had to learn everything over time, now in my 60s, I used an airbrush for the first time only 5 years ago and learned a whole new set of skills, yes I cannot match modern RTR, which frankly have a superb finish, but I can live with my results, which are as good as my skills allow, and as you say a lot of satisfaction to be had.
  3. I would go for soldered brass rod, with thin plywood for the scaffold boards, how far do you want to go on detail? scaffolding has changed over the years, when I started in construction, in the 1970s, it was all rusty iron tube, putlog scaffolds were common, wooden pole ladders for access, today it would be galvanised steel tube or more probably a "system" scaffold in aluminium, all erected as independent scaffold, with a staircase for access.
  4. Following this thread, I went and bought an ALDI cordless multi tool, £13.99, have found it very useful, as it says it is low torque, so relies on high revs, yes comes with a 3.2mm collet, bought a set of collets and mini chuck from TEMU, post free, photo below, which makes the tool more versatile, defiantly up the model jobs I want it to do, caution on collets, this tool takes 4.5mm shanks, my 12v EXPO drill takes 5mm shanks, which do not fit.
  5. I have used WD40 CONTACT CLEANER to clean out old oil from loco gears, worked well, dried with no residue.
  6. Back pedalling brakes are still the standard in Germany, I bought a bike there recently, all the "normal" bikes had back pedal, I find going down hill I can exert more force with my feet, as you say less chance of locking the back wheel up, the only problem I find is you have to push away to start, rather than moving the pedals to the ideal starting place, also most bikes come with hub dynamos and lights as standard, not extras, the stores we visited in Dusseldorf all had indoor tracks to try the bikes out, but on balance I prefer two hand brakes.
  7. Yes also have the GW puller, disadvantage the "legs" only fix over the tyre, all these pullers, to me, are not the easiest to use, maybe someone can come up with a better design.
  8. While talking about removing wheels, I found this tool worked well, particularly original RTR wheels, just be careful, maybe add packing so you do not just pull off the tyre, ordered on line, came in six days, they do a range of tools. expensive? but quality product.
  9. I have just recently fitted my first Alan Gibson wheels, converting the Dapol/Rails D1 to EM gauge, followed the AG instructions and used the GW Models, jig, (order by post with cheque, phone first to check price) only needed hand pressure, fitted securely first time, no glue, and quartered.
  10. My container of Carrs Red Label flux ran out recently, I had a bottle of Squires flux it simply, in my view, did not do the same job, solder being reluctant to flow, now have some more Carrs Red Label, now all back to normal, use it for all my soldering needs, mainly brass or white metal, except stainless steel, where I use Carrs Brown Label flux, which works really well.
  11. I've had a lot of prints from Shapeways, I wash in soapy water, let dry, they prime with Halfords rattle can, then paint with acrylics, never had a problem, there may be better ways, but this works for me, example attached in HO.
  12. Looking forward to attending with Railroad Crossing.
  13. Just for interest, I model the grey SECR livery, used numbers from FOX transfers, still looking for a source of the cab side plates, also have just received the grey Bachmann "collectors club special" C class loco and tender body, available as spares, £64, I model in EM so will put a new chassis under, also have just completed converting the Rails/Dapol D1 to EM.
  14. Reminds me that when I started in construction the old boy carpenters would sit break times setting and sharpening their saws, when the young lads started using the new disposable hardpoint saws, they laughed, but in a very short time they were all using the hardpoints, saw setting and sharping became history.
  15. Hold on there with these ideas, I've recently completed a Branchlines O class and almost completed their O1, and have a Southeast Finecast R1 next on my list! but seriously I have two O1s on order, however I model in EM and these modern RTR locos do not seem easy to convert.
  16. A fine set of photos, I used to be a very regular visitor to Hamburg, know these locations well, now regularly travel to Dusseldorf, not quite the same!
  17. I run the latest RTR next to my less than perfect kit built examples, to my eye they do not jar, but compliment each other, adding to the overall scene, a bit of weathering and personal details such as loco crew and lamps, adds your own touch, on my small American exhibition layout I run very basic Athearn Blue Box wagons with the latest hi. fi. RTR, stand back a couple of feet and you cannot tell them apart.
  18. You are quite correct, today it is the Medway Valley Line, I tend to use North Kent Line as that was its designation at the time I am modelling the area, I walk under the viaduct each time I go shopping and live just off the edge of your view.
  19. A quick Google, brings up lots of suppliers, seem cheap, as you say maybe there are better alternatives today, solder tag strips work well for me.
  20. Nice detail and weathering, shame about the obviously over scale nut and bolt castings. (this viaduct carriers the North Kent line over Janes' Creek, Strood)
  21. He is only a one man outfit, best to phone to see what is available, has a small stand at Scaleforum, where I am normally tempted by something!
  22. Interesting thread, my model of an Aveling and Porter locomotive, 4mm EM, non working, on my under construction model of the Aveling and Porter, Invicta Engineering works at Strood.
  23. Should have kept the original long Y point, this short Y point, is too sharp and will never blend in, seen Saturday near Dusseldorf Wehrhahn station.
  24. Some years ago I bought two O gauge PECO points, my plans changed and they were stored unused, around six years later I discovered them again, both had gone brittle and were unusable, I also had a home layout OO code 75 and after twenty years the plastic was as good as new, the unballasted track has been reused on my current layout, different souces or batches of raw plastic?
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