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    Perth, Western Australia

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  1. Oddly enough, if I quiz Google on pretty much any railway topic, even without including RMWeb in the search terms, an RMWeb thread or two always seems to turn up in the first half dozen hits .
  2. Not railway or LC related, but that's what happens to a lot of trucks in Oz, to fool the 100km/h speed limiter.
  3. Why would the cable need a 10A rating? With an output of 72W, even allowing a very conservative 50% efficiency, I make that a max 0.6A input current. If 10A is a generic UK requirement for all flexes (I confess I'm now probably 30 years behind on UK regs), I would suggest that 99% of low current consumer appliances, judging by eyeball measurement, are undercabled.
  4. And how, I wonder, did the curmudgeons acquire their knowledge. Could it, perhaps, have been by delving into mechanisms that they didn't quite understand and applying repair techniques they weren't quite sure would work? As a curmudgeon myself, I commend you for having a go and achieving a successful result, that being a running locomotive. It's not as if the world will be running out of B-L moguls any time soon, so any loss of originality is a matter between you and your wallet and none of anyone else's business.
  5. Giving rise to the prayer of thanks uttered by bodgers everywhere since time out of mind, "Thank goodness it's alloy and not metal".
  6. I remember the large yard, not far east of Bristol TM, in the early 80s. Whilst I'm sure there was actually a decent amount of separation, it always felt as if the foot of the scrap pile ran into the cess of the main line.
  7. Prototype Models kits are from the jurassic era of railway modelling and, as such, don't fall together like Metcalfe or Superquick. Nonetheless, I remember my, to be honest not terribly talented, father successfully building several for our N gauge layout 45 years ago, so they can't be too bad. I concur that making some practice photocopies would be an excellent idea. I also seem to remember that the card on which the kits are printed is quite thin, and there's not much bracing in the design, so using the kit as an overlay for a more robust styrene or card structure also has merit
  8. The trouble with specifying minimum radii for kits is that there is often sufficient variation between examples by different builders that any such figure quoted by the manufacturer becomes meaningless. This is particularly the case with many older kits where the builder is largely left to their own devices as far as running gear details are concerned. Certainly, were I a manufacturer, I'd be reluctant to specify a firm minimum, based on a kit that I'd built. I'd want to avoid having to field calls from builders disappointed after taking out all the axle sideplay, building the chassis twisted
  9. I'd go for a mid charcoal grey for those. Whilst a high percentage of work clothing was nominally black, most black fabrics fade to shades of grey fairly quickly. Black on model figures doesn't, IMHO, look quite right in most cases.
  10. We got footage of that in Australia. I thought it was most unBristolian myself. In my day, proper Bristolians would have weighed it in at one of the dodgier yards round the back of Feeder Road. I dunno. The youth of today. Tut tut etc.
  11. If it were me, I'd give it a go, with the proviso that I'd treat it with the caution I afford all Ebay electrical goods and, for instance, never leave it unattended when powered up. Also bear in mind it will offer no short circuit protection. Old AC controllers don't either, so, again I'd chance it. Those less cavalier may prefer to wire it up via a suitable circuit breaker or other current limiting device. A light bulb will do the job but I'm not sure what would be suitable. The car indicator bulb typically recommended for 00 use won't work for the sort of currents and voltages required by US
  12. Given the date on that photo, I'd assume that ETH wouldn't be a major consideration, even in Western Scotland.
  13. Shouldn't do. There are rumours that running on DC will eventually magnetise the plunger in reversing units, but noone seems to have actually seen it happen. Besides, your loco hasn't got one, and I don't care because I wire mine with a bridge rectifier, giving reversing by altering track polarity rather than iffy electromechanical arrangements. Whilst I've never run any of my US locos on AC, not having a suitable source, they do appear to be significantly smoother and quieter than similar locos run on AC seen on YouTube. On AC they all seem to emit a loud, mains frequency buzz, es
  14. Was the partial partition to save on lighting? Two compartments sharing a lamp.
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