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Baldy

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    Cambridge
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    UK and Canadian/US models. If you are checking my profile as I have left negative, disagree or indecipherable feedback, I can only apologise to you. It is not deliberate negative feedback - it's a combination of my tablet, fat figures and my IT incompetence. Sorry.

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  1. Many thanks Hibelroad (a very familiar road to me). Thanks very much for the reply and you have prompted me to change my location profile as I have now moved to Cambridge. Good to understand that this bit is hand made and I will have to try making contact with a local club down here.
  2. Hi. A layout I was kindly given uses Maygib point motor to change points. I am a complete novice on point motors but have a problem with one in that the connector arm between the pivot on the motor and the pin that goes up into the point has snapped. Photo below (left hand side, wire from pivot broken in two). I don’t know what the connector is called or how I get a replacement. My soldering and practical skills are not up to making a replacement and I haven’t been able to identify replacement parts on a web search. Could anyone provide me with some advice on getting a replacement?
  3. That’s an eBay link from 2015. I have included shop website link in my post earlier today.
  4. Another recommendation. I have just received a painted wagon load for the Oxford Pilchard and think it is excellent. Shop can be found on this website https://makeyourmarkmodels.com/store (Pilchard load not listed but quick email will sort).
  5. Note 11 of accounts has Oxford Diecast as a trading sub.
  6. There is a Commander panel mount controller on eBay that I have been watching for a while whilst reading this thread. Link below if it works. Reading some of the comments above, I was thinking it wouldn’t have the asbestos panel, but looking at eBay photos I am not so sure as it does look to have panel with wire wound round it. Could anyone say if it does look to have the asbestos part? Thanks. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266320961055?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=UeQFN0tfSCS&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=EMAIL
  7. Many thanks. I will have a look at trying to do this.
  8. DCC question if anyone can help: I have just fitted DCC to one of the Hornby LNER Azuma models using two DCC chips. All works fine on DCC but on DC I now get the same lights on on both ends (e.g both have front, or rear, lights on at same time). I can understand this as you have to program one chip to be in reverse (CV 29) to have lights working correctly on DCC, but is there anyway to get DCC set up to have front and rear lights operating correctly under both DCC and DC operation? (As the second DCC chip is only to control lights, I used a really old chip. I am wondering if newer chips would behave differently somehow on DC but not sure how that would really work.)
  9. Called in this morning. Really good selection of layouts, all very interesting and a well organised show. Certainly worth a visit. Thanks to organisers, exhibitors and traders.
  10. Tim. Could you post another couple of photos? I think the loose wire is red (maybe wrong as I am slightly colour blind). If so, and wire is coming from decoder, I think it is the right hand track connection which maybe should be soldered to top right hand pin (opposite pin labelled as number 1). However your final photos seems to show black wire having two wire connections to pin below. I am not sure why black (or red) would need two wires soldered to pins but additional photos may help. Could you show a photos looking where other end of black wire goes if there is a second wire from pin other than black wire to decoder. Would also be useful to see a close up of the black wire to pins, and pins right next to it to see if red wire is soldered to any of pins. I am not a dcc expert but it may help me or someone with more knowledge.
  11. Reverse the decoder around. The wiring on the some of the Brighton Belles is incorrect. Reversing the decoder should fix it.
  12. Best I can suggest is buy full loco from scograil (99.95 and free postage) and then sell on loco after taking out tts chip. Cheapest price I have seen. Note, I think the non tts loco has the 8 pin plug in at the front of the loco but the tts version dcc bits are all in the tender.
  13. CV 29 is the cv to switch to run with dc. You will need someone with a dcc system to do this. As detailed above, a local model shop with a dcc set up should know how to do it or, alternatively if you state where you live, you may get a forum member nearby you who could check out loco. It should be fixable. Best of luck.
  14. Hi. I am not an NCE powercab user but do have a few tts sound chips. I have found that, even though sometimes my dcc system can't read the chip, I can reset the address on programming track and then run the loco on the new address as normal. Another fix that sometimes works is to move chip into another loco just for programming and then move it back. However, as above post, access to sounds above cv6 should not require any programming - I haven't had that problem with any tts chip.
  15. Possible suggestion that I have found worked with the same issue when trying to address the odd tts chip. Rather than just putting 67 in and loco not being recognised, I found I had to write 067 to get the number recorded on the chip. (Using railmaster, which I think is great and so will give it a plug here, but others will disagree, and was only required on a couple of tts chips, others had no problem taking a new address withour the need for the zero to be specifically input at start.) Once I had got number changed, the loco can then be called up as normal with just the reference of 67. Worth giving it a go if others have same problem.
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