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Marbelup

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  • Website URL
    http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/

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  • Location
    Perth, Western Australia
  • Interests
    Western Australian Government Railways in Sn3.5 scale

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  1. You could try asking for an exemption given that you are bringing your business to IM rather than Shapeways, and that the design of the models is proven by previous printing. Just a thought. Also, is it your intention to print your locomotive in many parts to be assembled as a "kit"? I do the opposite, and try to minimise the number of parts, to 1 if possible. I understand that, especially with a steam loco, it might be desirable to print different parts in different orientation to minimise stepping on curved surfaces. IM do allow parts to be "sprued" now, with certain conditions, which I now use for small parts like bogies to minimise the impact of the €5 fixed charge per part.
  2. I haven't used it myself, but I know other 3D modellers using Autodesk Fusion 360 which is free for hobbyists. Would that be another option?
  3. Large curves should not get "planked" if you use decent CAD software and use appropriate settings when exporting STL file. I have done several cylindrical hopper wagons in HO and S scales and the curved sides come out quite smoothly apart from some stepping towards the top due to the printing process itself. The hopper in the attached photo is S scale and printed by i.Materialise in their standard resin. The sides have not been smoothed at all and 2 coats of paint have been applied.
  4. Looking back at the photos from June 8, 2016, I am pretty sure the layering on the sides of the wagons is the residue from the wax support material used for Shapeways FUD. I haven't ordered from Shapeways since I first started out in 3D in 2012, as I wasn't impressed by the residue, although some people seem to get good results with FUD. I have had some success on wagons with similar overhangs by making the underside of the overhang slope upwards, which can elimate the need for supports of any kind while not being too obvious on the finished model. An example is the C-channel side sill in the screenshot. I usually print in i.Materialise Standard Resin and, prior to that, their Grey Resin.
  5. Narrow Planet sell products from Tyneside Models so, if all else fails, they might pass on a message for you. Their web site is https://shop.narrowplanet.co.uk/ and they have a good old- fashioned email address.
  6. I just sent a message to Tyneside Models via Shapeways to let them know Harold has been trying to contact them. I can understand Harold's issues as the message appears as a Forum "conversation" with 2 "members" but there is no confirmation of the recipient's identity. The messaging system is all a bit vague. I am not a regular Shapeways customer, but I do have a login. I do order fairly frequently from i.Materialise, because I prefer their Standard Resin material.
  7. Sven, what software did you use to generate the supports form this model?
  8. I am pretty sure the cleanup process for the Form 2 is pretty similar. A friend who has one for model railway use bought an extra washing tank and UV oven to speed up the finishing process. With regard to estimating the volume of resin required for a model, Netfabb does this based on the STL file.
  9. Shapeways have a facility to send a message to the owner/designer of the model. Failing that, do a Google search for Tyneside Models and contact them direct.
  10. I have found the Colorfabb PHA/PLA filament is much less prone to warping than either ABS or pure PLA. Also, if you use "blue tape" on your print bed, 3M #2090 tape provides strong adhesion, even compared to other 3M tapes.
  11. Tip for future: You should be able to use just about any photo editing software to rotate your photo before uploading it to RMWEB. I find Irfanview (free, Windows only) very good for rotating, cropping or resizing photos.
  12. As far as I know, the commercial printers offering PLA use an extrusion type printer, so the result is not that much different to home printers. Having used a home printer (Makerbot) for a few years now, there are a few serious issue. Where supports are needed, the supports, if done in PLA, are too strong and very difficult to remove without damaging delicate parts of the model. Dual head printers can do supports in other materials, such as PVA which is water soluble, but I found there was poor adhesion between the different materials. I also found that larger models in PLA (say, > 150 mm) are prone to warping and pulling away from the build platform. I have had better result, in terms of warping, with PLA/PHA blend filament, but it can still be a problem. I have printed some functional parts, including a rotary car dumper, in PLA/PHA and have not had any problems with degradation over several years. I mainly use the Makerbot for prototypes to test the fit of parts, where the lack of detail (compared to SLA prints) is not an issue. Where possible, I try to arrange prints so supports are not needed, even if that means joining several parts to complete the model, which can be done quite easily by "welding" with a soldering iron. In some cases, I have designed my own support structure 'which can be easier to remove than the automatically generated supports. I have printed some larger test models, such as large diesels in S scale (around 300 mm long) in 3 sections which are "welded" together. These prints were useful to test the fit of the bogies and drive mechanism, but the finish and detail were not suitable as a finished model.
  13. As far as I know, the commercial printers offering PLA use an extrusion type printer, so the result is not that much different to home printers. Having used a home printer (Makerbot) for a few years now, there are a few serious issue. Where supports are needed, the supports, if done in PLA, are too strong and very difficult to remove without damaging delicate parts of the model. Dual head printers can do supports in other materials, such as PVA which is water soluble, but I found there was poor adhesion between the different materials. I also found that larger models in PLA (say, > 150 mm) are prone to warping and pulling away from the build platform. I have had better result, in terms of warping, with PLA/PHA blend filament, but it can still be a problem. I have printed some functional parts, including a rotary car dumper, in PLA/PHA and have not had any problems with degradation over several years. I mainly use the Makerbot for prototypes to test the fit of parts, where the lack of detail (compared to SLA prints) is not an issue. Where possible, I try to arrange prints so supports are not needed, even if that means joining several parts to complete the model, which can be done quite easily by "welding" with a soldering iron. In some cases, I have designed my own support structure 'which can be easier to remove than the automatically generated supports. I have printed some larger test models, such as large diesels in S scale (around 300 mm long) in 3 sections which are "welded" together. These prints were useful to test the fit of the bogies and drive mechanism, but the finish and detail were not suitable as a finished model.
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