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philsandy

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  • Location
    Manchester
  • Interests
    EM modeller. Steam era BR(M) early 60's

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  1. I used Woodland Scenics medium ballast for 4mm scale. In the coal/goods sidings I used fine, looks right to my eyes.
  2. Chris have a look at this tutorial on YouTube, it explains how the Brian Kirby method works using tension lock couplings.
  3. I'm looking at buying a Zimo decoder (MX648 or 649) they must have an 8 ohm speaker. I have several ESU 4 ohm speakers. Could I use 2 of these without any problems, ie. too low volume, and if so would they need to wired in series or parallel?
  4. On the domeless versions 40071 - 40144 on the LH side of the smokebox there is what resembles a small top feed, just above and horizontal with the handrail. There appears to be pipework to it also. What is it and where can I source one, or knock one up from something?
  5. I thought that the green wire was for sound, F1 ?
  6. So do away with the socket, and solder the red & black decoder wires to pick ups, and orange and grey to motor? How would you hardwire a sound decoder, ie. where would the green wire go?
  7. I am building an etched kit of a Stanier 3P and plan to fit this on a modified Hornby Stanier 4P chassis. The DCC socket is right at the front in the smokebox. On the Hornby body the underside of the smokebox is cut away to accommodate the DCC socket/decoder plug. But the Stanier 3P smokebox is smaller in diameter (approx. 3mm) and if I cut a slot in the underside wide enough (12mm ) to go over the socket it might be seen. Is there any reason why the DCC socket can not be unscrewed from its mounting, and have the whole thing, socket/ decoder plug, with a strip of insulation tape around
  8. Thanks for that Brian, lots of good tips there, very useful.
  9. I don't know how far back it goes for "toy trains", as I stated in my second post I don't know how old the model is.
  10. Have just bought an Judith Edge etched kit, a Stanier 3P 2-6-2T. Never built a kit before so it's all new territory. Would like some advise on how to roll a tapered boiler. I don't have access to rollers so will need to do it by hand. Found a diagram of a Stanier 3P 2-6-2T showing some dimensions. The boiler is 4' 2" (16.7mm) outer dia. at the front and 4' 9" (19mm) outer dia. at the rear. The etch is 0.015" N/S. How would one go about rolling this to produce the correct taper, what diameter bar would I need, (slightly smaller than reqd. diameter?), is it best to anneal it befo
  11. Just had a look now, a white dot. I wonder if it's worth contacting Hornby and asking for a replacement. I only got it yesterday, and as I said it does run well, but the fact that it would not respond on one occasion when I kept pressing the emergency stop suggests it's not reliable.
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