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  1. Even when cutting 0.080” styrene strip I can never produce a nice clean 90 degree right angle cut. If you go back through this thread you will see that I score the styrene strip using an engineers square and scalpel, then ‘snap’ the measured piece off. Due to the thickness of the strip it is never a clean 90 degree cut. I dress the ends by holding the styrene in an old engineers square and running a file over the end. Using the engineers square in this way ensures the ends are relatively square. It is also prudent to cut a little over size and file back.
  2. Unfortunately, the internet is so bad here that it won’t load your pictures. But with regards to the floor, the society W irons are designed around the floor being of prototypical thickness. Any greater than 40thou you may find that this particular wagon sits too high. Not to mention the solebars protruding down lower than the headstocks. To save any heartache further down the line I would bite the bullet and make another. Making mistakes is how we learn. Put it down as practice and have another go.
  3. Like Simon, I would happily build a wagon from that drawing. It’s not always possible to find a GA drawing, especially the further back in time to go. It may be the case that a drawing like this is all you have, or possibly with even less detail. The drawing gives major dimensions so it can be fairly accurately re-scaled. If possible, a good photograph also helps just to check visually that all the major parts are in relation to what the drawing shows. I wouldn’t let yourself get too bogged down with accuracy, sometimes we have to compromise. If you want the actual dimensions of everything you intend to build, right down to the last nut & bolt, then you may find you never actually make anything. Modelling is much about visual representation, if you find your drawing is a fair representation of the prototype then I would be happy with that. After all, no one is going to take a micrometer to the model. Generally, you will find that solebars and headstocks are 12” deep. From your drawing it would appear the headstocks are deeper than the solebars, much in the same way as those on my GNSR wagon. With regards to rounded ends, I think Simon pretty much covered things. If you find that there is insufficient space on your plastic sheet to locate both points of the dividers you may wish to make a separate jig from sheet metal. This could then be used to mark out the curvature of the end.
  4. If possible, I always like to work from a GA drawing. The NRM has a large collection and their catalogues can be downloaded from their website. It’s not possible to view the drawings so it’s pot luck if, from their description, you get what you are looking for. Fortunately, with the aid of the internet, you can receive a digital copy at a reasonable price. That way you haven’t lost too much money if it’s not what you expected.
  5. Sorry, I have nothing to hand at the moment. I’m currently under quarantine in an Angolan hotel prior to going offshore. Everything is at home. Being a Scottish modeller I don’t know if I would have anything suitable? Books can be a good source of information, as with this GNSR wagon.
  6. Thats great news, thank you for sharing.
  7. To be honest I don't have a great deal of experience either. I bought a tube of Humbrol Model Filler many years ago, it's been okay for filling end pillars but there may be something better on the market.
  8. End Pillars, these extend below the thickness of the floor plus the depth of the headstock. They are normally tapered over the length of the end planks. Some people file the taper, I have tried this but could never get all four pillars to look the same. I suppose you could make some sort of jig but I choose to make mine up in layers. For this GNSR wagon I made the end pillars from three layers of styrene strip of various thickness. The centre section acts as a spacer and is the same thickness as the taper, it’s length being the same as the flat section at the bottom of the pillar. The layers are glued together and once set I fill the void in the taper with model filler. I apologise for the quality of the picture but I hope you get the idea. Once the model filler is set I clean any excess of with a file and add any detail that is required. Some end pillars may be chamfered or rounded on the top, as with this GNSR wagon. This is done by eye with a file before fixing the pillars to the wagon. That pretty much concludes the wagon body, next stage is installing the running gear.
  9. With the body now assembled I next build up the corner plates. On the real thing these were one piece but I make mine in two halves, one half for the side and another for the end. Again I cut them from 0.005” styrene sheet. There was a 1 in radius on the corner so after letting the two halves of the corner plates fully set I, very carefully, file the radius by eye. The corner plates are then finished off by adding their nuts.
  10. @airnimal, You may have mentioned this previously in your thread but can I ask what you use to blacken your wheels? Just to save me searching back through 55 pages. Thanks.
  11. Evergreen do larger sheets of 5thou styrene. If you go back to when I made the underframe you will see that I use a homemade cutting jig to cut 0.040” stripes from these larger sheets. I apologise if my post wasn’t clear, let me know and I go into it in greater depth.
  12. Before starting to detail the sides and ends I remove the small section of the side rail/curb rail that sits over the headstock. I slice a section out using a scalpel, just smaller than that actually required. Then file to the correct size whilst constantly checking against the headstock to ensure I don’t remove too much plastic. As mentioned before, I like to detail as much of the wagon as possible before assembling it. Using the same techniques as described previously I cut stripes of 0.040” x 0.005” styrene and glue them onto the side of the wagon to represent the washer plates. 0.040” x 0.010” styrene stripes were used to represent the door bands as these tended to be made from thicker steel on the prototype, they certainly were on this particular wagon. Also at this stage, as much of the iron work is added to the inside of the wagon. If you are going to fill your wagon with a load or cover it with a tarpaulin, then it's probably not worth this extra effort. 0.040” diameter plastic rod is used to represent the hinges. I like to file a small flat on the plastic rod just to increase the surface area a little to help secure it in position. For securing the ironwork and nuts my preference is to use DL-Limonene rather than MEK. DL-limonene is a much less aggressive liquid cement then MEK and is less likely to melt the thinner 0.005” styrene strips. Not only that, the cure time is less which help enormously when positioning the parts. Now the exciting part, assembling the wagon body! There’s no hard and fast way of doing this but I usually ‘tack’ the parts in position using a sparing amount of MEK in a couple of key positions. By doing this you have more of a fighting chance if you are not happy and need to remove one of the parts. With all four sides tacked in position, and you are happy, you can then go around and flood all the joints with MEK. Once the basic body is made-up I install two transverse braces that are just a fraction longer than the inner width of the wagon. They are not glued in place, just held there by the pressure exerted on them by the wagon sides. As the solvent dries it starts to pull the sides and ends inwards, eventually causing them to bow. These two strips prevent the sides from being pulled inwards. I normally keep them in place till the time comes to paint the wagon.
  13. There's a lot going on with these German locomotives. Rather you than me.
  14. It's been a while since I have had anything stick up like a flagpole.
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