ScottW

Would these questions be better placed in Sorry if I sound pedantic but it would then leave this thread for you to show us the fruits of your labour.

I can confirm everything Jim has said. When you profile a wheel you need to hold the wheel on a mandrel so that it is being secured solely by the steel tyre. Here are pictures of the mandrel I made when re-profiling the Gibson wheels: The wheel is secured by pressing the tyre between the front face of the mandrel and the brass washer. As Jim said, don't let the tool cut into the tyre face as the forces involved will over come those securing the wheel. This will more than likely result in the plastic spokes coming into contact with the brass screws and damaging them. Ask me how I know I would also recommend using a cutting fluid other wise the finish will be rougher than a badgers a**e. Scott

I measured the width of these two wheels, which are Gibson S Scale EM profile tender wheels, one measures 0.090" and the other 0.088". Both are just a few thou over the recomended standard. When I reprofiled them I set the tool so that it just touched the back of the tyre which ensured that the wheels can be set to the correct B2B and any extra width would be at the front of the wheel, which in this case was fairly negligable. Scott

The Drewry shunter pictured in a previous post ran on re-profiled Markit wheels. The problem with using 4mm scale wheels is you will inevitably get more spokes than you require. I have also re-profiled S Scale Gibson wheels: The wheel on the left is the original Gibson wheel whilst the one on the right has been re-profiled. From the photograph there doesn't appear to be much of a difference but in the flesh you can see a big improvement. Scott

My preference would be to print the boiler band in brass rather than paint it. I think painting plastic to represent metal never looks as good as the real thing.

Thanks for highlighting this. I have copied your post on another S Scale forum in the hope it might drum up a little more support.

If on the first attempt the bend cracked, how did you eventually manage to form the platework on the corners? Is it in two halves?

Thanks for the additional information, Mike. Nice work on the 02.

Thanks chaps for the information. Mike is right, the first two sources of information are WD's. I hadn't seen the book on the Barrowmore site before; very interesting. Thank you, Keefer for bringing that to my intention. I have a copy of the MRJ in which the article by Monty Wells was published. It is quite a comprahensive article and does indeed have a drawing. My plan was to build one of these little locomotives, in S Scale, using a basic set of etches produced by Worsley Works. After seeing those detailed photographs David posted on Mike's workbench thread, it struck me that there are number of exposed bolts heads which, in my view, brings a model alive when included. I was hoping to find a GA drawing with a view that it would show where they all were. It can also be the case that drawings published in the modelling press don't show all the detail, especially items that are hidden away behind panels but can still be seen from other angles.

Hi folks, I was hoping someone might be able to point me in the direction of where I could lay my hands on a GA drawing of a BR class 02 0-4-0DH? I don't normally model this period so this is a little out of my comfort zone. Many thanks.

Loved the video and congratulations on a finishing a superb locomotive.

Thank you for sharing that, Brendan. The locomotive is looking superb in it's new BR livery. On seeing the two pictures online I contacted Kelvin to confirm it was the same model and he informed that you were the new custudian. I hope it brings you much enjoyment, it's nice to see it in operation and not lying in a box waiting for that rainy day.

It's funny what pops up from time to time. Last night when surfing Facebook a post popped up from Endon Valley Custom Decals showing a couple of pictures of a very nice Drewry Shunter belonging to a chap named Kelvin. This particular little shunter was built by myself a number of years ago and is based on the S Scale etches sold by Worsley Works. Having all but completed the locomotive a few gremlins were needing sorting out to get it running smoothley but, by that time, I had lost interest and packed it way in a box for a rainy day. Fast forward a few years and I was persuaded into selling the loco on. It has subsequently passed through a few hands but one owner had the vision to finally complete the loco. I believe Trevor Nunn had a hand in getting it running and putting the final touches to the model. This is the first time I have seen the locomotive finally completed and with Trevor working his magic I'm sure it runs as well as it looks.

Superb, thanks Jim.

The last parts of the wagon have been glued on using two part epoxy resin. I suppose you could use Superglue but I have never got on with the stuff due to it's quick setting proporties. The buffers are 4mm scale (ex Romford) available from Markits. They are not truley prototypical but the heads are the correct size for S Scale and once painted they do give a fair representation of the prototype. I use the same buffers on my NBR wagons, with the technology around today I suppose it would be quite easy to produce a set of prototypical buffers but I choose to continue using these to maintain the same standard as my earlier wagons. @Guy Rixon very kindly produced a set of 3D printed GNSR wagon buffers for me (available through his Shapways page) but it wasn't till after he did them that I learnt the GNSR didn't fit that particular type of buffer till after 1909, three years after my chosen period. Guy also produced the axleboxes for me, which I have used. Unfortunately, being made from a clear plastic material they don't stand out very well in the pictures. The springs are whitemetal castings bought from the S Scale Society parts department. You will find, when modelling in S Scale, that a number of 4mm parts are suitable for S Scale. I have in the past used 4mm scale buffer bodies and axleboxes on my wagons. Some of the older castings on the market are probably a little oversize for 4mm and look a lot more suitable as an S Scale part. The wagon is pretty much now complete, I just have to try and source some suitable decals and paint it.

Over this last week I've been getting distracted by another project so the GNSR wagon hasn't progressed very much. The brake gear has been installed which is one job I find quite tedious. Bill Bedford produces an etch for Highland Railway single shoe brake gear which, with a bit of bashing, can be made to represent other types of single shoe brake gear. I have used this etch in the past to represent both North British and Caledonian types of wagon brakes. For this GNSR wagon I utilised the brake and brake lever from the etch whilst making new push rods and pivot. The GNSR push rods were much longer than those of the HR whilst the pivot was smaller. The pivot in this case was made from brass angle. My normal method for securing the parts is to glue the brake and pivot in position using two part epoxy. I then assemble the push rods and brake lever, securing everything with a little solder. This does mean being very careful as it is simple to linger too long with the soldering iron and melt the plastic or, more often, soften the 2 part epoxy just enough for items to fall off.

I could do with taking a leaf out of your book, I've been modelling in S Scale for a number of years now and still not laid any track. I'll look forward to watching this progress, thank you for posting.

Two very nice locomotives. Would I be right in thinking that Knott End is scratchbuilt?

A lovely wagon and an equally lovely video.

Thanks, Jim. But only if you’re feeling up to it.

IWell, it's been some time since my last post. Having been out the country for the past few months I am now safely back home and slowly stating to get back into the modelling groove. Continuing with the GNSR wagon I am now moving onto the running gear, starting with the W irons. These are a simple fold-up affair where by one end is fixed whilst the other end rocks around a central pivot. This set-up provides some compensation for the wagon and helps ensure all four wheels remain firmly on the track. The wheels are held in place by soldering in situ pinpoint axle bearings. This is a batch of W irons I produced previously. And this is the GNSR wagon up on it's feet. The wheels are not the correct type, they will be replaced with a set of spoked wheels after painting.

Even when cutting 0.080” styrene strip I can never produce a nice clean 90 degree right angle cut. If you go back through this thread you will see that I score the styrene strip using an engineers square and scalpel, then ‘snap’ the measured piece off. Due to the thickness of the strip it is never a clean 90 degree cut. I dress the ends by holding the styrene in an old engineers square and running a file over the end. Using the engineers square in this way ensures the ends are relatively square. It is also prudent to cut a little over size and file back.

Unfortunately, the internet is so bad here that it won’t load your pictures. But with regards to the floor, the society W irons are designed around the floor being of prototypical thickness. Any greater than 40thou you may find that this particular wagon sits too high. Not to mention the solebars protruding down lower than the headstocks. To save any heartache further down the line I would bite the bullet and make another. Making mistakes is how we learn. Put it down as practice and have another go.

Like Simon, I would happily build a wagon from that drawing. It’s not always possible to find a GA drawing, especially the further back in time to go. It may be the case that a drawing like this is all you have, or possibly with even less detail. The drawing gives major dimensions so it can be fairly accurately re-scaled. If possible, a good photograph also helps just to check visually that all the major parts are in relation to what the drawing shows. I wouldn’t let yourself get too bogged down with accuracy, sometimes we have to compromise. If you want the actual dimensions of everything you intend to build, right down to the last nut & bolt, then you may find you never actually make anything. Modelling is much about visual representation, if you find your drawing is a fair representation of the prototype then I would be happy with that. After all, no one is going to take a micrometer to the model. Generally, you will find that solebars and headstocks are 12” deep. From your drawing it would appear the headstocks are deeper than the solebars, much in the same way as those on my GNSR wagon. With regards to rounded ends, I think Simon pretty much covered things. If you find that there is insufficient space on your plastic sheet to locate both points of the dividers you may wish to make a separate jig from sheet metal. This could then be used to mark out the curvature of the end.

If possible, I always like to work from a GA drawing. The NRM has a large collection and their catalogues can be downloaded from their website. It’s not possible to view the drawings so it’s pot luck if, from their description, you get what you are looking for. Fortunately, with the aid of the internet, you can receive a digital copy at a reasonable price. That way you haven’t lost too much money if it’s not what you expected.