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Gruffalo last won the day on December 2 2013

Gruffalo had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Just inside Northants
  • Interests
    GWR/WR, SDJR and IoW steam. OO 16.5 is my limit, can't do much finer due to grande-digit syndrome and schenkthandt disease!

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  1. I ordered 10 of the excellent BS13Bs and they were here within 48 hours. Thanks for the great product and service Dave.
  2. Another couple of basics - scriber and square. If leaning towards things electrical then add a decent soldering iron between 18 and 30 watts with a selection of bits and a decent multi-meter. I would always want to be able to measure current in addition to voltage and resistance. A selection of insulated crimps including butts and eyelets and a suitable crimping tool always are useful, as are automatic wire strippers. On the mechanical side, I include a small 1/4 drive socket set to 13mm with screwdriver, torx and hex bits. A 150mm adjustable wrench is good too. A standard set of flat and cross types screwdrivers with insulated shafts and three sets of pliers - standard, cross-cut and long nosed, again insulted to 600V.
  3. The name "Prince of Wales" may have been chosen against a Scottish name in case Mr Salmond has his way and wants to claim it as Scottish come Q4 this year. Hat on, coat round shoulders and out...
  4. Just an example of a Gruffalo's inability to remember names!
  5. I think I met Norman at Warley last year having looked him up after viewing Tony Wright's Little Bytham and was mightily impressed by his demonstration stand. He did say that he prefers to work in 7mm so I hope you will manage to persuade him Dave.
  6. It is pictures like these that Joe Public -I.e. Me- could never get but provide great reference material we modellers can use. Thanks Captain.
  7. I believe that the good Captain was suggesting that the whole section will be made active before a final solution to the wall was applied. This addresses the economic requirement whilst it allows the careful and proper later restitution of the wall to something akin to original colours etc - whilst I do hope the final solution is in such a form as the redirect the force of nature back upon itself - dissipating wave energy rather than trying to absorb it in the structure. Edit: Whilst typing this LBM and CM have almost made surplus my comment.
  8. Most transformers are now supplied as "double insulated" and will have a symbol on them that looks like a black square with another black square inside it if it doesn't need to be enclosed. Such transformers only have a brown and a blue wire - no earth connection. Each device should be protected by a (maximum) 3 amp fuse. Each Gaugemaster would not normally draw 1 amp on the primary circuit so a 3 amp fuse in your plug should also be ok. If you are dismantling Gaugemaster units to rebuild them into a new panel you need to avoid creating a potential for mains to get to the outside case. Your fireman friend has surrounded his transformer with an insulator to avoid power reaching the outside but you also need to consider the feet. I don't know how big is your layout but that seems a lot of power to me. Allowing 1 amp for each running loco with say 3 of those and another 2 amps for accessories would give 5 amps demand from the secondary if all run at 12v dc, that is 60w total secondary. Taking that from one transformer requires that one to be rated at 100w on the primary side, less that 0.5 amp! Do you really need three Gaugemasters? The three regulators are on the secondary side - only needing a low voltage supply. If you consider your real costs, the components, the time to do this, the enclosure etc, you will find buying a controller is much cheaper AND it removes the safety risk to being done by specialists. Gaugemaster do twin-channel controllers and used to do a four channel unit. Points are controlled by solenoid units and these are best connected via a capacitor discharge unit. These don't take a lot of power. If you are using slow-action geared motors (tortoise, cobalts etc), you need to run these at 9v and not more! LED lighting is better supplied separately at lower voltages but if you want to stay at 12v, remember to include dropper resistors. If you enclose any transformer, it will generate heat that needs to be dissipated, hence the metal cases because they act like radiators. Electrics should never be on the floor. Not only could spilled water get onto them but ther issues of trailing wires create trip hazards too.
  9. Ian, the art of being an engineer IS recognising when your knowledge does not extend beyond what you are attempting. It is very fulfilling to be working at the forefront of a field but it is embarrassing (and sometimes downright dangerous) to attempt the unknown without proper planning and risk assessment. Engineers almost invariably were able to discuss problems and issues without any 'loss of face' as the orientals put it. The few who couldn't rarely lasted long in that discipline. The fact that we can, for example, watch the progress of NR's restorative works at Dawlish show how much has changed in a generation. Time was when you could go about your work and suffer the odd ignominious event as you [email protected] up occasionally but you didn't have the world (which is now an expert in everything) constantly staring over your shoulder.
  10. Gruffalo


    Hi bigbear, hope this forum helps - and I know it can inspire - you.
  11. Hello and good luck with your plan.
  12. Gruffalo


    I'll second that too!
  13. I'll second posts 2, 4, 5 & 6 Dave.
  14. John, the link didn't work for me. I will try again later but could you make the files available once more please?
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