Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

117 Good

Recent Profile Visitors

227 profile views
  1. Black5


    Anyone attempting a scratch build in brass/nickel silver etc. is always interesting, but to see what you`re doing in tinplate is something else. I remember my father taking me to a model engineering exhibition put on by Aldershot Model Engineering Society way back in the 1950`s and seeing a great number of tinplate models on display, quite a large proportion of them being ships. Seeing that at the age I was fired my interest in model making, settling on railways which is still as strong at 77. Great to see your progress so far. Jim
  2. I`ve been using graphite sticks on the rails now for sometime. My layout is in an integral garage with the usual lifting door which when opened can let in all sorts of mother nature so the top of the layout requires cleaning fairly often. I use graphite sticks after reading a mention by Phil Parker about a layout in Australia that used graphite because of difficulty reaching some of the areas on their layout. I`m not sure what the grade is but it`s pretty hard and does wear a groove in the end after some use. Obviously the usual cleaning of wheels etc. still takes place but I find it works well.
  3. In answer to the original post, for me, I get pleasure from reading the printed article. As a geezer of advancing years, with all the attendant gradual failings, eyesight and fingers that aren`t what they once were, taking time to read and absorb the magazine articles have helped me no end over the years, whereas I`m not a huge user of the computer so reading online might not suit, but each to their own. One thing I am grateful for though is being able to use the computer to access RMWeb and the help are we able to get from it. I`m sure my modelling ability would be far less without either. Jim.
  4. HI JeFFP, I have to hold my hands up and say, " you were correct " . I have absolutely no idea why but three drivers were un-insulated. I hadn`t checked that thoroughly because I don`t ever remember buying non insulated. Anyway, your suggestion proved me wrong and I thank you for that and while everything is stripped down I`ll renew all the wheels. I`ll go and look for the hat with the big D on it!! Many thanks once again, Jim.
  5. Hi JeffP, Thanks for your reply, I`ve always fitted insulated drivers simply because it hopefully reduces the chance of any problem that might arrive in that area. However, you could be correct and time has dimmed the memory. I will double check though. Jim.
  6. II GRIFONE and 34theletterbetweenB&D Many thanks for your replies, I understand totally the need for insulation on the brushes, having two other metal bodied/brass chassis locos which work fine. Further checking has revealed only one wheel appears to have insulation that is working. all the others are live to the axles. One of the reasons I stripped everything was the fact that I noticed the valve gear was live as well so my feeling was that I was looking at a possible list of problems as you say. All the axles have washers fitted so I`m pretty certain nothing is in contact with the chassis from that point. The last thing to check is the balance weights , which are etched brass, but are inboard of the insulation band. If that proves ok then a new set of drivers will hopefully put things right. Like 34, I`ve never come across this problem before but I suppose it can happen. Best wishes, Jim.
  7. Evening all, While installing a dcc chip in a loco the other day I noticed that the chassis was live. As the driving wheels are insulated Romfords, could it be that the insulation has broken down ? (if that`s possible ) and is making the chassis live through the axles? If that is the case my other question is , does this affect the use of the decoder at all in any way? The loco runs fine on DC and has also been running using a basic Hornby decoder on a Portescap motor. The intention is to fit a ZIMO decoder once things are back together. You might say, if it`s running alright just carry on, but I wondered if there was a problem in the future it might be difficult to decide if it was the decoder or the live chassis. Changing the wheels will be a thing I will do but I was curious to know the answer to the other questions. Many thanks, Jim.
  8. Thanks Pete the Elaner, I`ll note those down as well.
  9. Thanks for your reply. No I haven`t tried that. I`m going to have another look later to see if there`s anything else going on that I haven`t spotted.
  10. Evening all, I have a loco with a Zimo MX600R decoder in it that has suddenly decided to run at one speed only. Prior to this it had been fine but now wont respond to the controller. It`s also not responding to the emergency stop. Having never come across this before I wondered if anyone might know the reason why. I have another similar decoder but I`m reluctant to try it in case I end up damaging that one. Many thanks, Jim.
  11. Pleased to be able to help John. Best of luck with your re-installation. I have a portescap in my scratchbuilt Duchess that`s going to get a Zimmo decoder in it. Like yours, my loco and motor are both 40 yrs old. Cheers, Jim.
  12. High John, I`ve sent the picture as a PDF. Hopefully it`s arrived at your end and it`s of some use to you. Let me know if there`s a problem. Cheers, Jim. RG4.pdf
  13. Hi John, I have the circuit diagram in relation to a Portescap RG 4 motor. It`s a very basic outline and may not be what you want. I can take a picture on my phone , but I need to figure out how load it to be able to send it , not having used this new system before. Let me know if it might be any use to you. Jim.
  14. Thankyou DLT and Gordon A. You were both correct, I should have said a 1/8th axle, not 3mm. Many thanks for the information. I`ll follow that up and see what happens. Many thanks once again, Jim.
  15. Afternoon all, I`m in the process of trying to convert a loco chassis that held a Romford Bulldog motor into one that will take a Portescap motor. So far, things have progressed well but I`ve now come to a halt because I need to locate a final drive gear for the motor. As far as I can tell , I would need a 10mm dia, 15 tooth gear with a 3mm dia hole to take a Romford axle. I`ve checked various sites but have not found one yet and I wondered if anyone could point me in the right direction. If all else fails, I`ll have to go back to the other motor. Many thanks, Jim.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.