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Gareth001

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Posts posted by Gareth001

  1. Hi Gareth,

     

    Love the idea and execution of the sector plate, an excellent space saving idea. Granted it may have been rare but, as has been mentioned, Bembridge can be the example of a similar set up (albeit small turntable).

     

    I know you will have mentioned it, so apologies, but what is the length of the sector plate itself?

     

    Love the weathered Hudswell Clarke by the way!!

     

    Cheers,

    David

    Hello David...thanks for your kind words. Little bit more to do on the HC yet! the track length on the sector plate is 310mm.

  2. I then stuck the panels to the fascia with silicone sealant, and stuck mooring baulks on to cover every other joint. The remaining joints will be covered by mooring chains hanging from rings set into the dockside.

     

    Edging stones to be carved from Das, and a paint job awaits.

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    • Like 9
  3. A bit more progress to report. I've always had the idea that the fascia at the front of a layout could form part of the scenery as a whole; a bit like the frame becoming part of the picture. As my little yard is supposed to be part of a dockside complex, similar to somewhere like Richborough on the East Kent Railway which sprang up as a crowded facility in WW1, and would have possibly receded into industrial use before the closure of my fictional light railway, I decided to make the fascia into a representation of the estuary wall, built in a utilitarian fashion from concrete blocks.

     

    I carved one panel from a slab of filler, made a mould in latex and cast another 20 in resin. The little imperfections in the mould are not really noticeable in the resin castings.

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    • Like 1
  4. Hi John...the tracks on mine measure 310mm (which are slightly longer than the girder plate sides), and as a flatiron is a gnat's over 40 feet (280mm) you should be ok. The Airfix kit is still readily available, but the tooling seems to be a bit worn now so the parts do need a bit of cleaning up. I used chequer plate embossed styrene to cover up the underscale planking on the walkways, and cut a slice out of the bed which I replaced with Plastruct girders to get the right width. I think it'll look ok when everything's built up around it.

  5. So...selling cnc cut styrene kits took over for a bit, until I found I was spending all my spare time cutting windows and signal boxes and coal offices...so I've decided to slow that all down a bit until I can build up a bit of stock, so dispatching them won't be such a pressure. I need to finish the coach kit too.

     

    Back to a bit of modelling! Finished the sector plate (I know these were quite unusual, but it's a neat solution for the space I have available. If i ever extend, I can replace it with a point), which is a heavily bashed Airfix OO kit with bits of styrene, Slaters fencing and other bits. Coat of Halfords red primer and ready to install in situ.

     

    I'll build up the "well" around it, and I had intended to control it with a linear actuator or servo, but with a loco on it there's too much weight to shift, so I'm going to control it hydraulically....watch this space!

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    • Like 8
  6. After a bit of experimenting, I've found a much quicker way of painting brickwork, having messed about with paint in mortar courses and dry brushing large areas until I lost the will to live. Having sprayed the brickwork with Halfords red oxide primer, I just wiped cheapo filler across the wall and cleaned with a damp cloth...much quicker and easier, and not a bad result....I'm sure many people do this already, and I've only just cottoned on, so apologies if I'm teaching anyone to suck bricks.

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    • Like 5
  7. Thanks Harry.

     

    The figure is from Phoenix Figures, via S&D Models, in cast whitemetal. You don't get quite the detail available from 3d printing, but i reckon the Phoenix range is excellent, and good value too.

     

    I think I'd probably be looking at about £20 including postage for the full kit, including the resin cast base (not including the lamp, figure or bucket).

    • Like 2
  8. Here are a few pics of the finished signal box in it's painted form, albeit very clean and tidy: It's due for a bit of weathering tomorrow. I have designed the whole thing as a flat pack kit, with all parts cut in readiness...sort of Ikea O Gauge!. If anyone's interested, do drop me a line.

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    • Like 10
  9. Hi Barnaby.....yes, that's the general idea: the box is based on the one at Monmouth May Hill, but similar ones could be found all over the UK, so a suitable coat of paint could locate it very convincingly. I think it would be particularly suitable in a light railway setting, and as these signal boxes had, in some cases, very long lives, there should be a wide range of applications. Hope to have a finished example ready soon.

    • Like 1
  10. Further to my experiments with CNC cutting of styrene sheet, here are some pics of a prototype small signal box, suitable for branch line or light railway use. 

     

    All the parts are from 10 thou or 20 thou sheet, apart from the brick built base, which I cast in resin. Once I've ironed out the wrinkles, and made and painted another from the masters, I might release it as a short run kit (not sure if I'm allowed to say that on here....but I'm certain someone will tell me off if I'm not!).

     

    The prototype hasn't got any glazing in, which will keep the windows nice and flat, and there's still guttering and downpipes to add.

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    • Like 11
  11. Here's a picture of the pattern, mould and finished casting of the underframe. I made the pattern out of laminated styrene sheet, the mould is latex and it's cast in 2 part resin. Simple but very satisfying when it pops out of the mould.

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    • Like 4
  12. One of the reasons I've been dragging my heels on the roof is that I've got quite involved in exploring the capabilities of CNC cutting on styrene sheet. Having made windows, doors and some small outbuildings, I thought I'd have a go at some rolling stock. I chose quite an obscure prototype: a 4 wheel coach made for the Rother Valley Railway by Hurst Nelson & Co in 1900. A suitable prototype, because not only would it not look out of place in any light railway setting, but also had flat sides and ends, making construction easier.

     

    Here's some pictures of how far I've got I cast the underframe in resin, and I'll have to do the same for the axleboxes and springs, because I can't find any 5' springs available anywhere. I'm getting quite into casting!

     

    Once I've finished all the drawings, and made all the patterns I need for casting, it occurs to me it would make quite a nice sort of "scratch aid" kit which I could make available if there was any interest. I'll see how the prototype comes out.

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    • Like 5
  13. Sloooowwww progress on the warehouse roof, but I'm getting there....I'm quite pleased with the effect of the wedge shaped building, and the traverser slides underneath it, hiding the fiddle yard pretty well. I wanted to avoid the really low relief sometimes used in this area.

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    • Like 2
  14. So, with a bout of enthusiasm coupled with a quiet day in the office, I decided to tackle a job I have, if I'm honest, been putting off. At the very start of this thread I did say...."If I can a.) build a wagon kit and make a decent job of it (not too challenging), b.) build a point from a kit that actually works (slightly harder) and c.) scratchbuild a building to a decent standard (might be an issue) then I'll get on and tackle the rest of it". That was an embarrassingly long time ago....and I haven't finished the building yet!!!

     

    In my defence, I did, perhaps rather ambitiously, choose a rather difficult place to start: a 3 foot long wedge shaped northlight warehouse. Still no excuse for taking nearly 4 years. Anyway, one of the reasons I've procrastinated so long is how to portray roof slates....I've settled on 5 thou plasticard strips, cut on a silhouette cnc cutter, solvent welded onto a second sheet of plasticard in turn stuck to a roof panel of 3mm hardboard. Note....MekPak is a bit too vicious for 5 thou sheet, and distorted it a bit, but Humbrol Liquid Poly seems ok. Here's the first panel before and after painting, and balanced in place. It was actually a lot quicker to do than I thought.

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    • Like 4
  15. Hi Richard.....I'd encourage you to have another go. The results are well worth it....the thought of never having a loco stick on pointwork again is enough incentive on it's own! I'm totally convinced it's the way forward, and, as I may have said before, the first manufacturer that releases a ready to run, reliable and affordable solution will clean up. Good luck....let me know how you get on.

  16. It's frightening to realise that a YEAR has gone past since I last posted....must try harder! Life keeps getting in the way. Thanks to Barnaby for his concern!!!!!

     

    However, I have done a few bits here and there, and am inspired to press on. I've been replacing my 3 link couplings with Dinghams, which, having tried most alternatives, I reckon are about the best compromise. Jury's out on which electromagnet to use though.....I have bought a couple of SMP point motors with a view to cutting them in half and making a core from a nail...watch this space.

     

    Ballasting has begun, and points now work via Fulgurex slow action motors, which I'll have to change, because they're so noisy! The lights on the big warehouse now work too.

     

    Here's a quick pic of the stencilled sign on the aforementioned warehouse, duly scrubbed back with a fibreglass brush, and the little crane which still needs a bit of greasing up.

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    • Like 8
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