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Everything posted by Gareth001

  1. Just ordered a set of nameplates for the Hudswell Clarke with (obviously) the wife's name on, which forms part of the plan to order a Peckett........
  2. More slow progress, consisting of lots of dry brushing (takes ages!) and the ventilators and one of the windows installed. Found myself in the slightly bizarre situation this morning of a quietish morning at work, so started painting some brickwork....then realised that as we're having some decorating done at home, I'm spending my time painting one building whist simultaneously paying someone else to paint another one 43 times bigger. I suspect they will be a lot quicker too.
  3. So....while the method above looks good on a small area, the sheen of pale colour over the brickwork looks all wrong on a larger area....so back to plan A. Wall sprayed grey and dry brushed, and when it's all finished I'll weather with powders and give it a coat of matt varnish.
  4. Latest attempt at painting brickwork below. This is a basecoat of Halfords red oxide primer, followed by Homebase Toffee Cream matt emulsion (which just so happened to be the colour of our living room) worked in with a finger, then wiped clean with a damp cloth diagonally across the brickwork. As the base coat is spirit based, the water base emulsion doesn't affect it, and it's pretty quick to do.
  5. I agree with you, Obconical.....there's nothing more guaranteed to spoil the illusion than a loco buffering up to a wagon, only for it to jump away at the slightest touch. I weigh my wagons down a lot...(vans up to half a pound) and as I, like you, don't run long trains there's no problem. Also agree that if the wagon's built right, all will be well.....when I was working in 4mm, I used to use spring steel wire bearing on wagon axles to stop them running away. I also like the idea of a loco actually having some work to do....I can actually see the sprung buffers working when shunting too. Get
  6. And the board of directors have invested in one more piece of rolling stock (need to tone down that "G"), and the crane is painted.
  7. The check rails for the inset track by the factory are also done...
  8. A bit of an update...(I said this would be slow!)....the carcass of the big warehouse is now complete, made from 6mm MDF and clad with embossed styrene stuck on with contact adhesive. Compared to anything I ever built in 4mm scale, this is BIG! The building is wedge shaped to partially cover the traverser as well as hide it from the front, with a cutout in the rear wall to allow the traverser to pass beneath. I've already cut all the windows and vents with the Silhouette cutter, to be fitted after painting, and I'm still debating whether to paint it brick colour and work the grouting in by
  9. Hello....having read about LCUT kits, I ordered a brick arch kit with warehouse fittings to have a look for myself....if I'm honest, I was a bit sceptical about the accuracy of brickwork relief and crispness of detail on window frames, etc. However, following really quick delivery, I'm really impressed....I was prepared to replace the windows with ones made on a silhouette cutter, but although the bars work out at a scale 1.71" ( a little thick), theyre so nicely cut I can live with it. I've started to experiment with painting, as the absorbency of the wood is going to be an issue: I think a s
  10. So...another enforced break cause by real life getting in the way, but made a start on the lovely little GW 2 ton crane truck from Gladiator Models which I picked up at the trade show in Reading. The castings were very crisp and a thoroughly enjoyed build, but the instructions were a bit minimal and I found lots of the whitemetal bits appeared out of square...lots of persuasion needed. I think I finally came out on top....just. pics in primer below, which show up the trackwork a bit: still some fettling needed.
  11. The thing that always put me off making buildings was the repetitive stuff, especially the roofing. Getting the slates thin enough to look right in the smaller scales means thin card cut into strips, and then laying them really carefully.....any tiny error stands out like a sore thumb. I've seen lots of nice buildings spoilt like this, and I'd been a bit worried about doing any sort of quantity, especially on the big warehouse which is going to hide the traverser. However, by setting the cutter to score 10 thou styrene (just under half a scale inch, which is still a little thick but I can live
  12. Some progress made recently.....track all painted and the check rails laid on the siding which is going to be laid with setts. I'm going to use Das clay for this, but haven't yet decided whether to scribe it when dry (which seems like a sanity threatening exercise) or to make a press and do it while the clay is wet. If anyone has any thoughts on this, do let me know. The big step forward recently has been the purchase of a silhouette CNC cutter. (see JCL's thread). This very impressive piece of kit will cut 10 thou styrene with remarkable precision, and score 20 thou. I reckon it will pay
  13. Yes, I thought that, but the manhole scales out at almost exactly 2 feet, which isn't unreasonable, and drain cover come in different sizes, so I'm happy with that. I'll try the tiny drain cover and surround today...but the Hudswell Clarke was delivered yesterday, so a lot of time will be sent idly shunting it back and forth...it's an exquisite runner: Thanks Chris! I've made the mistake of having the embryonic layout in my office....must remember to do a bit of work from time to time!
  14. I came across a very interesting site yesterday which I thought others might be interested in. www.dioramadebris.co.uk is well worth a look..I reckon we can learn a lot from the military modelling side: some of their stuff is stunning. I was particularly interested in the silicon moulds they produce, and ordered the manhole covers and drains mould yesterday at about 3pm. It arrived this morning, and not being the sort to read instructions or buy special materials, I mixed up some epoxy resin that I'd bough in a pound shop ages ago, slapped it in and went for a sandwich. The result is below....
  15. The plan is to motorise the sector plate with the actuator below, set at the limit of travel by the two microswitches. Via a cheapo decoder if I decide to go DCC...still on the fence with splinters in the proverbial.
  16. Here's a view of the sector plate in it's infancy, made from a cut down Airfix turntable, some plastruct girders and C&L rail and chairs. The Airfix mouldings were pretty poor, but the tooling must be ancient now....I should probably have started from scratch. Need to make a pivot and bearing on the lathe, and some carrier wheels.
  17. Here's the line's entire rolling stock....the board of directors clearly need to make some purchases. Photos can be cruel...the rusty bits don't look so orange in real life. I reckon I can do better in future.
  18. Here's a pic of part of the baseboard join, which I have admittedly got a bit OCD over....still got a bit to do get it right. Once all the tracks are aligned for the traverser and sector plate, I'll superglue every chair anywhere near a joint of any kind. I need to adjust the sleeper spacing a bit too, and I should have set the points a fraction further apart to accommodate better spacing at the joint....hindsight is a wonderful thing. However, in the run down sidings of the type I'm trying to portray, lots of the sleepers were buried in the mud, grime and spoil, so I should be able to camouf
  19. So, after another indecently long pause, I have finally finished the second point and laid the remainder of the track which I've initially stuck down with jolly old No More Nails. I thought that once the points were down the rest would follow swiftly...no chance. It's taken quite a time to get the plain track down, because I've been quite fussy about alignment, etc...I want the slow running to be spot on. I went to a recent exhibition (Folkestone) where, incidentally there were no O gauge layouts, and I only saw one exhibit which didn't involve the giant hand from above within a minute or two
  20. With a bit of motivation derived from having the full layout surface stretched out in front of me, I'm waiting on a delivery from C&L to crack on with the trackwork. In the meantime I'll cut out all the trackbed from 6mm mdf...laminating that to the baseboards should give even more rigidity. Meanwhile, during the ridiculously long planning process this has all gone through, I've re thought the track plan (below). Only two points, and not too crowded, but still some good operating potential.
  21. I've also put a traverser in by setting in some cut down drawer runners into the baseboard, stuck in with silicone sealant. This allows the traverser deck to slide above the main baseboard. I'm going to cut the track plan out of more 6mm mdf so that the track sits 6mm above the baseboards: If you build onto a plain board, you can build up, but you can't go down: real ground doesn't work like that, and I think this will allow me just a little contouring to put in some dips, puddles etc. It'll also allow me to plant buildings below ground level.
  22. The other thing that spoils a lot of exhibition layouts for me is the baseboard join. I know this is a tricky one, and whilst my focus isn't exhibiting, I want the layout to be portable. I reckon the best way is to really beef up the join, so the boards clamp together tightly and accurately. I used some 6mm 50x50 Aluminium angle, offset across the join. I put washers between the two lengths of angle and bolted them together before fixing to the boards with M8 countersunk hexhead screws and Nylock nuts. I then took the washers out before bolting together (screws and wingnuts) to really pull the
  23. Well, it's been a little while, but I did say this would take forever! I've knocked together a couple of wagon kits, built a point (which I'm quite chuffed with) and I'm much less apprehensive about building my own trackwork. Although I did say I'd have a go at a building before I finally took the plunge, rules are made to be broken, and I've addressed the loathsome job of building the baseboards. I went for 6mm mdf, all glued together with pva. All a bit wobbly at first, but when I got all the bracing in it became pretty solid. I've seen lots of high quality exhibition layouts which have
  24. Thanks Chaz...you're right of course. I'm very much at the "will it fit" stage, and I'll certainly be looking to vary the angles, etc. when it comes to finally positioning the buildings. So...thought I'd pop the transfers on the Mogo, light dust of weathering and job done....no such luck. The transfers were a nightmare, and it took ages as each individual letter had to be positioned with the point of a knife. Not sure if I was doing something wrong, but lots of swearing, some muck and grime and a coat of matt varnish later and it was time to leave well alone before I lost the plot and threw it
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