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    4mm 18.83 guage. SR/LMS/SDJR.

    7mm Finescale GWR 1940's

    7mm MR/LMS 1930`s

    Soon to begin construction of a Hatchette Mallard subscription project.

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  1. I modelled in 4mm for thirty years and I don`t recall cutout heights being standardised !!!!???? Your cut out height will be dependent on the design of your chosen hornguides and you keeping to the axle hole positions in the chassis frame so that your loco ride height is correct for the design of kit and the position of the wheel in relation to the wheel splashers...…., Good kits have the axle centre line pre-etched...……. here is my working out allowing for the hornguide spring to be fully compressed.... These are the measurements for Slaters hornguides before cutting...….. Hope this helps
  2. The best scribing tool you will ever need...even comes with a spare blade inside the handle......
  3. There is no difference between wiring a DC layout to a DCC layout. Theoretically DCC is easier(less wiring). With DC wiring YOU have to make the isolating sections by supplying the switches and cutting the track. SO.... if you do that all you have to do when changing over to DCC is make sure all your isolated sections are switched to LIVE ( so every section of track has power at the same time) then connect to your DCC controller of choice and away you go. As long as you have avoided any possible electrical shorting with your DC track laying all will be well. With DCC working , PECO points are more reliable by being changed so that the point frogs are isolated from the stock rails and the track current is more reliable if you use wire droppers and not rely on using rail joiners.
  4. Thankyou Tony, I really like the Bachmann IP , at least, above the footplate. Declining eyesigh, for modelling that is, has pushed me away to 7mm work nowadays so I look at the new 4mm creations with a little envy .......
  5. Never mind the height of the chimney.... are they going to do something with those terrible toy-like coupling rods??? No matter how I tried to improve the Craftsman kit, and it has always been a favourite of mine, It never quite looked right ....and now someone needs to think about producing the pull-push coach....other than the very old and hard to come by...Perseverence kit.....
  6. Stop wearing nylon underpants
  7. The diamond impregnated discs that I use are no godd cutters of thick material. Get yourself some of the grey or black carborundum discs and they will cut anything just about including mazak. I used some very cheap ones on this lump and although I needed to use three discs ( cos they wore down ) they worked fine ..and I use a very cheap variable speed minidrill. John
  8. Just to finally complete my occasional involvement with this build thread...................... MINE IS 99% FINALLY COMPLETELY ASSEMBLED WITH A FULLY WORKING AND PAINTED LOCO CHASSIS AS FROM 13TH NOVEMBER 2019. just the final paint finish to do and to add the cab detail which will be painted last.......................
  9. yes folks the roof interior........................... ...of course never believing in preserved examples....... ...assuming this might be nearer a 1930`s colour excluding the red ??????
  10. I hope you don`t mind a b it of thread highjacking................................................. ................................... but as Tony and many of you are experts in all things LNER ....and I`m not at all, I would appreciate some 1930`s livery detailing advice on a recent 7mm loco kit build.... before I apply the paint. Now Tony you will need to sit for this bit..... This is a completed and fully working Hatchette Partwork build of A4 Mallard which as many of you know is designed to be assembled entirely with superglue. The etched brass being coated with a lacquer to facilitate superglue adhesion. You may stand ... as I have soldered 95% of it ( by removing all the lacquer) with the exception of the tender above the footplate , as the sides are plastic: and the loco cab roof which is a mazak type moulding and I`m always scared of that stuff!! I would like your opinion on :- circa 1930`s livery (1) the painting of the cab interior... how much of it , sides roof , seat backs etc would be Garter Blue and was the internal roof white??? (2) was the tender front bulkhead also painted Garter Blue if so how much of it ?? (3) I`ve seen the preserved Mallards cab backhead and quite a few of the controls are painted red . Would this be so in the 1930`s ? Many thanks in advance john
  11. As the light fades around the kitchen table this evening the completed assembly of this Hatchette Mallard, built to exhibition standards , has been achieved. There will be no further blog entrails on this project as I have moved this over to the Facebook Hatchette Mallard Build blog. Thanks for watching Johnny Rosspop
  12. The Journey continues........ Having built a strong soldered chassis and lower frame the plastic body becomes a very strong and solid structure once everything is in place.. .....I`m debating whether to replace the wheels with Slaters......... Obviously the body work is now down to superglue assembly.................................... ................. a lot of work still to do.....
  13. I`m a bit of a bully to my 200 Dave, as I use it to airbrush Phoenix/precision two part etch primer ..so I always strip it down and leave things to soak in my `cleaning mix` as mentioned or else the primer might etch into the metal parts..... other than that I strip it down every year and give it a good clean. But if you always have a mix of cleaner at the same time as your paint mix and clean as you go along you will have minimal if any problems. not forgetting , of course, you need to mix your paints to the right thinness with no bits in it....so don`t use paint that has been left with its lid off for a long time. I made a decision in the 1970`s to only ever use enamel paint for airbrushing locos and rolling stock.... I think it`s harder wearing on etched and metal models. john
  14. Chassis is finished and the body superstructure is ready for the painting stage. I did`nt get on with the buffer springiing units and did`nt feel the design for fitting them would be reliable in model railway running environments, so I resorted to some drastic strengthening tactics....... Milliput !!! Now I`m on to the tender assembly................................
  15. Hi Dave I still have the original spanner for my 35 year old 200. Then just dismantle/unscrew the front end of the of the airbrush into its three separate pieces and the white seal is just pushed on or pulled off the inner valve. I have never needed to replace the needle bearing. I`m not sure that you can without returning it to Badger Save up your pennies and get a new Badger 155 Anthem which is a whole lot easier to maintain and it`s dual action John
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