ROSSPOP

But not as good as an abrasive block.......

Absolutely....... Have had a go with some very old. Acetone......and this scared it.......

Frustratingly........the Polycell had absolutely no effect on removing the lacquer coating on the brass........... Did'nt even make it go sticky......... So would like to hear from anyone who has actually removed the stuff .......

That'll be on tomorrow's playlist..............

Yes, painted on and left to bubble up for 20- 30 mins, then before washing off in water,scrub parts with an old tooth brush.....then a final scrub in a bucket of water.............simples!

A quick burnish with a fibre brush.........itch...itch...scratch...scratch.........

Just look at all those lovely ' wibbets'..........

Folks , I've been playing with this stuff today..........

Thanks for that Steve, I have read most of the entries, and yes there have been Mazak mix problems on and off since the 1930's apparently. However, our best loved manufacturers still use it and I have examples of Mazak from the 1950's that remains robust. The model press as far as I am aware have never taken issue on the transient problem, so I guess we have to take a chance on The Mallard, assuming it is Mazak I'm planning of getting two Mallard bodies in case of problems before two years are up, bearing in mind at 130 partworks issues, it will take more than two years to finish the collection and then I will complain to Hatchette. If Mazak deterioration occurs at 25 years, it won't matter to me as I will have become a white powdery substance myself by then..... Regards

Anybody's pics will do ..........

Ok Show me pics of white powdery Mazak models in the last ten years then .........

Now come on folks! The quality of the castings is very good Mazak or not. A quick wipe with Nitromors will remove the over thick paint.The soft white metal lamp irons are totally inappropriate for a working model , but they are easily fabricated out of scrap brass. Using very fine abrasive blocks sold at B&Q will deal with the lacquer coating, small parts you can scrape with a small screw driver. Motivation and determination is all that's needed...........

I'd better get some stronger drills if it's Mazak .........

I have a sneeky feeling there are both plastic and metal body parts, as there was only one available to me at the back of the store, maybe this was from the initial run out earlier in the year......... Someone tell me otherwise!!!!!!!!!

And very nice they are too....... Less impressed with the white metal parts though.......

I can confirm folks that what I've just purchased in W H Smiths is metal parts

Defo a 61xx

Just about everything on the S&D.there are photo evidence of Standard class 4. 2-6-4 tanks, LMS. / BR 2P, Standard class 5 and 4, LMS /BR 4F, 7 F and 8 F when other locos failed on busy Saturdays. John

Hi again I'm more an artist than an engineer, so I don't measure wire gauges. the wire supplied with Bill Beds w-irons copes with just about everything ,but for cast metal kits I just guage by eye up to a little thicker. I have two sets of wire and bearing holder of each guage and ' trial and 'error ' Sorry about the blog issue but every modelling site has its idiosyncrasies when it comes to downloading pics. With the O guage site you have to send your pics to another country before adding them to their site. Don't know about you though but I've learnt an awfull lot by trawling these two modelling sites, it's as enjoyable as making a model. Regards John

Assuming they are BR livery, the green would be 1956 to the mid 1960's Julian Regards John

Very much trial and error Miss Prism. I used the MJT axle box casting as a reference, bearing in mind there is compression of the springing wire to think about. If it is too weak then I replace the guage of the wire until the ride height is acceptable.

Hah. Hah you got it!....Ray only ever painted the viewing sides of his stock!

Rather than convert Bachmann tanks which I did`nt feel were opened framed enough. I had a go at David Geen kits and started on a set of three. I began with a general clean up of parts and to work out how to incorporate my favourite w-irons. this proved to be a little more complex as I had to to fit all three springing units seperately making sure they all squared up with the framing. A little jiggery pokery to make sure the wheels were free of the framing. One of my pet hates is poor quality axle box details, and I feel this is a failing on these kits. All were replaced with MJT. The rest of the kit was very good and went together well. Then a thorough clean and off to the paint shop. I used Fox transfers to complete the project.......... The entire project was completed in the late Ray Earl style...........three Brownie Points to anyone who can say what that is........????? And I did the same!!!!! Actually I messed up the Fox transfers.

I was hoping to use Balsa wood for this part but could only find Bass wood ,which is fine , but looks less aged and grainy. However, it was probably a bonus on the stability front. I thought a base for the whole platform would aid stability as the platform was to be built around the front of the signal box. I had already purchased a Skytrex GWR Pagoda and intended to upgrade this as well as use the whitemetal platform supports to save me much time. Then I got on with producing old sleepers for the platform surface and produced a crude dye for embossing impressions of where the chairs had been attached. I fabricated lamps from the SD Mouldings range of parts, adapting them to fit on the end of the wooden posts which were then hollowed a little to take grain of wheat bulbs and wiring. The Box is fully detailed and lit. The Inspiration

Also if you research the p4 layout St Merryn, I believe they have straight forward RTR converted stock.