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cravensdmufan

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Everything posted by cravensdmufan

  1. As well as changing CV150 to 1, if it's still not quite smooth it's also worth adjusting CV 3 (try around 35) and CV4 (try around 20). By fine tuning these three CVs I have been able to obtain smooth performance at all speeds with TTS decoders. Also make sure DC running is switched off in CV29. If it's still very slightly jerky sometimes adjusting the BEMF (CV10) will do the trick. It seems like hassle, but time spent experimenting is usually rewarded with very good results. I have all of my diesels running excellently. Once you do get it right it's worth keeping a no
  2. Hi Phil, Pleased to say I managed to download OK; I bypassed Windows Defender then my Malwarebytes Premium did a quick scan of it - no threats of course. Well I have to say it's brilliant! Fair play to you. I would definitely like the British Rail one when you have it available please. Could I make a request to include TOC options for Network SouthEast, Intercity and Regional Railways please? E.g. the 09.30 Network SouthEast service to Reading. Thanks Vivian
  3. Hi Phil, Downloaded and unzipped file OK but can't run the app. Screen comes up "Windows protected your PC". "Microsoft Defender SmartScreen prevented an unrecognised app from starting. Running this app might put your PC at risk". This is all very strange because I have downloaded many apps before and running .exe files and zip files have never been a problem. Think the problem may possibly be at your end. Vivian
  4. Hi, Yes, it is the latest Microsoft Edge I use. Thanks, I'll try the zip download. Vivian
  5. Hi tried to download the TAG.Setup.exe, but message comes up "blocked because it could harm your device".
  6. The BR one looks as if it's going to be really good. Where will we buy the program from and roughly how much will it be please?
  7. Just the one sheet per pack I'm afraid Adrian.
  8. Only just found this product the other day, having searched for corrugated sheeting. Purchased from DCC Supplies. Quite expensive (IMO) but really good stuff. I only wanted it for some narrow strips to disguise a gap I had between two resin RTP buildings. Just the job, especially with a light touch of weathering powders to blend it in. Now I just need to do the small bit of brickwork - I think I have a small bit of Slaters ...somewhere!
  9. Labelle 102 is still available - though somewhat difficult to source in the UK these days (there is one supplier at present on eBay). Still advertised as safe on plastics. I've been using it for years along with their PTFE white grease and dry lubricant powder. A great range of products IMO, completely safe.
  10. Just started weathering some Joef Cargowaggons I purchased some 35 years ago! I remember buying them from a shop in Pentonville Road but couldn't remember the name. Then a quick Google brought me straight here to good old RMweb (is there anything model railway related that's not featured somewhere in within these pages?!). So yes, I remember now. Victors! I was never a Continental modeller but I seem to recall a Victors advert, (probably in RM) featuring these H0 wagons and it saying they wouldn't look out of place for 00 (could have been a review of them).
  11. Yes. I have put new Hornby power bogies into ex Lima Class 101 DMUs no PC board.
  12. That's a marvellous collection of photos - thanks for posting the link. Going slightly OT - I notice that every single carriage had window frames. I believe most Mk1s were retro fitted with frames from the mid 60s due to corrosion. I wish Bachmann would do a small retool to cater for blue/grey and latter liveries - after all most Mk1s would have spent well over half their lives with frames. AFAIK there are no after market etches for these coaches.
  13. Thanks for that info which is timed perfectly for me - I'm currently rebuilding my layout and have just got all new 9mm birch ply sheets. I wasn't looking forward to cutting 18 holes for the solenoid point motors (of which I have loads from a large previous layout) so I may treat myself to the Bosch.
  14. I got a cheap flexi shaft for my Dremel off the 'bay which works great, especially for track cutting with a large diameter disc allowing a straight cut downwards. For the amount I use it, wasn't really worth getting the branded one.
  15. Press PROG/ESC 6 times. It will read SET CAB PARAMS Press ENTER It will read SHOW TRK CURRENT? ( I find that useful so I press 1 for Yes, if you don't want that just press ENTER) Then it says NUMBER OF RECALLS Press 6 Then PROG/ESC to get back to the main screen.
  16. Not so simple for me I'm afraid! I'll stick to my tried and trusted method of the masking tape coloured with a felt pen!
  17. Totally agree. It's always been a problem - very unprotypical to see bright lights of any colour shade on older locos and DMUs. Despite using DCC and reducing brightness CVs to the very minimum, they are still way too bright. On the real locos (apart from high density halogen headlights) lights were powered by tungsten bulbs which really just about glowed in the dark! What I have done with all my Bachmann and Hornby diesels and first generation DMUs is to put a small piece of ordinary paper type masking tape over the lens and colour that with a black Sharp
  18. What a lovely first layout - the grandson is going to be absolutely delighted.
  19. Absolutely agree. Just when you think they have got it right (love my BR Blue Class 87) they go back to the really dark blue again. As a result I didn't buy any Mk2e/f's not will I buy this RB. Which is a shame because they are really nice models. (OT but I'm really fearful for the APT if they go back to that terrible dark cream representation of Executive Light Grey.)
  20. 82116 in INTERCITY livery was in their 2020 announcement. Duplication isn't really an issue as far as Hornby are concerned, Terrier and Class 71 being two examples.
  21. I love the look of both your Class 91 and AL6. Just shows what can be done with older models. I reckon Hornby captured the basic shape of their 86, 90 and 91 really well, and were great models to super detail, as you have so expertly done. It's just a shame that the mechanisms and pantographs were so basic, but then I suppose they had to cater for more of a robust product at a reasonable price. Model railways are so different today and the quality of mechanisms is now fabulous. I'm really keeping my fingers crossed that Heljan may possibly finally "nail" the 86, but
  22. Thanks very much for posting Brian. The coaches do look great apart from the blue and grey one. Like you say. the Rail Blue is way too dark, plus I would say the Rail Grey is too light! It will be interesting to see how they have rendered the Executive livery. It will be important that they get it better than previous attempts - even more so when the APT appears!
  23. I thought it was strange that Peco hadn't provided the wires "for snipping" nor the wire from the frog. I purchased 12 different Electrofrog turnouts recently and the small Ys were the only ones without the option for modification. Yet I have modified them myself successfully and all my locos* perform faultlessly over them. So I wonder why Peco chose not to make them the same? There must be a very good reason. Edit: Thinking about it further, and looking at my own photo above, it may well be that it's because the only place that you can have the gap in the rail is o
  24. Simon K from Hornby is aware of the general (lack of) spares situation - he mentioned it on the latest Q&A video, so hopefully availability will improve in future. In the meantime. have you tried phoning Hornby? They are always helpful, and may just have one knocking around somewhere! Edit: Also maybe put your request on the "wanted" thread.
  25. Hi, I purchased two small Y Electrofrog turnouts just recently. Despite Peco's advice I still modified them; cut and bonded the rails and soldered a wire to the frog and used a microswitch to change polarity. Used a piercing saw to cut the rails as there's not much space. Also cut plastic webbing away under the rails to solder the bonding wires. A bit of extra work, but in ensures perfect running - you are not relying on the point blade contact to transfer the current. I attach a photo - unfortunately I don't know how to insert arrows to point to where I made the cut
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