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cravensdmufan

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Everything posted by cravensdmufan

  1. cravensdmufan

    Test

    Well done Andy and team - all working fine now.
  2. Thanks Mick, I'll check that. The only reason I used the chuck was because I didn't have a suitable collet. But I have now ordered a collet set along with better mandrels. I'm determined to get it sorted because I know the tool itself is a good bit of kit. Thanks everyone for advice.
  3. Thanks Ian, Yes the mandrels have been central in the chuck and the discs themselves look as if the holes are central. I was pushing the shaft of the mandrel in about half way - plenty for the chuck to grip onto I thought. Will report back again as per above post. Vivian
  4. Thanks very much Ian, Mick and Mark for your responses. I have ordered a pack of mandrels the same as the ones Mick has suggested. I am obviously very wary of using this tool with a cutting disc. However, a friend of mine of has come up with the suggestion that I may be powering it up too suddenly at maximum speed. The Dremel is very fierce. I will try out the new mandrels when they arrive (wearing a safety visor I think!) and report back. Thanks again for the comments. Vivian
  5. Hi everyone, I just started trying to use my Dremel (given to me as a present a couple of years ago by my late wife) for the first time ever with a cutting disc. I have only used the tool a few times in the past for drilling holes and it's been good. As soon as I switch the power on the mandrel immediately bends severely! Before even applying the disc to the item to be cut! Happened twice now! Before I go off to the model shop to purchase a third mandrel, could anyone be kind enough to advise me what I'm doing wrong? Thanks.
  6. I replaced the traction tyred wheels with normal ones on two of my early Class 50s a few years ago. From memory I acquired four new wheelsets from Peter's Spares which gave me the eight non tyred wheels I needed. I removed original tyred wheels from their axles by placing the wheelset in a mini vice (wheel backs on top of the jaws of the vice) and used a light hammer and punch to tap them off. New wheel goes back tight on the axle, use a back to back gauge to get the correct distance. You also need to make sure the cogs on the axle are properly lined up (they are off set) as it's easy to get them the wrong way round. Both of my locos still run superbly. It was a lot cheaper than buying complete new motor bogies.
  7. Great photos, thanks for posting. Being an ex BR(GE) man, I particularly liked the 306 on Platform 5 at Shenfield. Unusual, in that they were normally run as 3x3 car units, even off peak. The 309 in it's original maroon livery passing through Stratford looks stunning - real quality trains, built properly.
  8. Reminds me of when I worked at Paddington in BR(W) days. If the minibus to OOC wasn't available they used a light loco, usually a 47 or 50 - I well remember seeing the lads piling in both cabs!
  9. Thanks for highlighting that article - foolishly I had actually skipped past it thinking it was simply another re-numbering tutorial. In the past I've seen reference to the "oily rag" finish particularly on steam loco models and seen photos, but wondered how it was achieved. Now I know!
  10. Thanks Jonny. Just strips of tin foil stuck on with PVA. For the antimacassars on the 1st class seats I used white paint, but I have since changed my method - I now cut small squares out of white self-adhesive label. Neater and even quicker!
  11. I just painted the seats as well. Plus small strips of tin foil for the mirrors, and a splash of paint inside the glazing for the curtains! Really does make a difference.
  12. It is with great sadness that I have to report the death of Peter Buck of Spalding, Lincolnshire, following a short illness. Peter was always an avid railway enthusiast. One of his earliest childhood memories was lying in bed hearing (and feeling!) the heavy steam hauled coal trains passing in the night, his family home being right by the GN/GE joint line at Welland Bridge in Spalding. During school holidays he cycled to Tallington level crossing on the ECML for trainspotting, and took delight in watching the A4s (always his favourite loco class) thundering past. After leaving school Peter joined Brush Traction at Loughborough where he was involved in the construction of Type 2 (Class 31) locomotives for British Railways. All his working life was spent in the machine tool industry at various locations culminating in employment with Delphi Industries, Gloucestershire. On retirement, Peter moved back “home” to Spalding with Esther who sadly predeceased him in 2014. Retirement meant he was at last able to spend much more time enjoying his great passion for railway modelling. Like many other boys of his generation he started with Hornby tinplate, then modelled in 4mm for many years until discovering the wealth of detail achievable in 7mm O gauge. He was a member of both the Gauge O Guild and Spalding Model Railway Club where he was involved with the refurbishment of the Club's O gauge layout. He also enjoyed visits to as many model railway exhibitions as possible! Peter will be much missed by his many friends in the model railway community. Sincere condolences to his son Richard and family, and to his sister Christine and niece Katie. Peter Buck, 19th October 1938 - 22nd July 2021. May he rest in peace.
  13. Maybe try a decoder reset CV8 to 8? You will then need to re address the loco as it will revert it to 3. (Sorry that's teaching you to suck eggs!).
  14. I really enjoyed your video. Very useful. Thanks for posting.
  15. I also enjoy digging out old models from the "forgotten about" drawer which sometimes make nice projects to experiment on. Here's an example of where I was practicing my dry brush weathering techniques on an old Lima DMU chassis/engine block - just a chunk of moulded plastic which although was well detailed for it's day really didn't look great alongside more modern models. A combination of a few different Citadel GW acrylics along with touches of Tamiya powders to pick out the different components has produced an almost 3D effect! The DMU is now proudly back on the layout after 25 years in the drawer! And, after a good service and extra pick ups fitted it runs sweetly too! Almost no money spent - the satisfaction of the end result, invaluable! Best wishes to all. Vivian
  16. Excellent! Thanks for posting. I have a Lima 121 in my drawer and think I may do likewise.
  17. I use pre-wired micro plugs/sockets from Squires Tools. They are really small and almost unnoticeable especially when painted matt dark grey. Most importantly the wire used is extremely flexible for use between the vehicles. Here's an example of where I have used one to connect an additional speaker to the unpowered car of a Bachmann Class 150. It is barely noticeable even though I haven't painted it it yet. The plug/socket itself tucks nicely inside the corridor connection. Through experience I have found it better to site the wire higher up on the model as illustrated here. At first I tried locating it down nearer the couplings but this caused a few derailments especially when propelling.
  18. This series of bookazines is proving an invaluable reference source for modellers of the BR era. Descriptions and attention to detail is fantastic, as are the photographs. Printed on quality paper to keep on the bookshelf for years to come. I have now ordered this latest one, and am really looking forward to it - keep up the good work!
  19. Good advice which I have taken on board. Many thanks Richard.
  20. Thanks for posting this useful tutorial Richard. I have 3 or 4 of these speakers unused from decoders where I upgraded with your speakers for locos. So I'm thinking of using them for 1st generation DMU's where they'd be small enough to fit under the chassis. Before I start gluing, is there any advantage of using the other two spacers to make the enclosure bigger? Would that change the sound? Thanks. Vivian.
  21. I purchased this product a couple of years ago having watched the manufacturers' video. It is excellent at removing all paint if you need to get back to bare plastic. However, be aware that it has different reaction times to some paints. I purchased the product basically for removing just numbers / lettering, leaving the base colour. They say on their tutorial that this is achievable by neutralising the product with IPA as soon as the number disappears (see at 3:49 on the video) . I applied it to my Heljan Class 58 but in a few seconds the black plastic of the body moulding appeared! I didn't get time to apply the IPA! I haven't used the product since. I found it much more aggressive and quick acting than advertised.
  22. IMO never use superglue. Doesn't allow positioning adjustment and the runny stuff can ooze out if you put even the tiniest bit too much on. Then it is a devil to get off the paintwork without damage. I use good old Evo Stik impact - apply a tiny bit on a cocktail stick onto the centre of the nameplate - keeping it away from the edges and the ends. Position it on the model straight away (don't follow the manufacturers advice to wait - the tiny amount dries too quickly!). Should you happen to get a tiny bit of seepage, the almost dried glue will just roll off with no damage to the paintwork.
  23. Glass spaghetti storage jar, for example: Glass Spaghetti Pasta Food Preserving Storage Jar - 2050ml Clip Top Kitchen 5055512084944 | eBay
  24. Exactly Russ. Most of the projects available up till recently had annoyingly short gentle changes through the gears which are not realistic at all, obviously because they were recorded on preserved railways - maximum 25 mph!). But with Paul's and Bif's latest you can now get much longer revs between gear changes. On Paul's you even get the choice of shunting mode (F6), lightly loaded mode (F5) as alternatives to the default "normal" heavy acceleration mode. No connection with these two suppliers, just a happy customer pleased to have decent first generation sounds at last!
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