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YK 50A

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  • Location
    : Elvington, North Yorkshire
  • Interests
    Dad, Liverpool Football Club, days out, travelling, music, talking too much, Oliver Vaughan Snell Bulleid and his predecessors, my Musicman Stingray, dreaming about the perfect model railway, my cat, my chickens, the countryside, coaching stock and blue diesels...

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  1. Thanks @dan_the_v8man, Funnily enough, my Father-in-Law is bringing his angle grinder on his next visit, although it is mostly to deal with a couple of expansion joints which haven't quite worked as I'd hoped and some remodelling of the through station, from experience of running live steam as opposed to "diesels". It's my first time working with concrete (other than a labouring job when I was at college circa 30 years ago) so it's inevitable there would be some teething problems. As an aside, I am using plastic coffee stirrers to help bridge the dips and wa
  2. Hi, I don't know what happened to my original post, I'll try again! E3457 is a fictitious number, in-between 1975 built Mk2F First Open (FO) M3439 and 1953 built boat train Mk1 Second Open (SO) S3500. The model looks to be a Tourist Second Open (TSO) and if the number doesn't bother you, either bogie is correct. As @Trainshed Terry says, the bogie on the left is a Commonwealth and the other a BR1 (or BR standard). It's a complicated business, but Mk1 TSOs were built with both, Commonwealths from the late 1950s. Mk1 coaches were built or retro
  3. The only genuine reverse curves are around "Pool" and they do have straight sections between the changes. In other news, I've realigned the flexi which eases into the Setrack section and I've got the 38" curve round the Birch Tree again (reverse loop). There will be no curves shorter than 38" and most are 48" or greater. I am using laser cut templates to help form the 48" curves, there's pictures on the link I posted. I've had fun on the IoM and many other railways, but I intend to run slowly. Evening up any camber just makes sense, from a reliability and safety perspective. Uni
  4. Thank you for the encouragement and wishes! I remember the LGB elephant ad, although I have seen LGB track bent by a horse! Regarding knees and ground level, it seemed the most sensible under the circumstances. If I want a loop, there's inevitably "level crossings" which can be stepped over. I have wondered about Ready Mix or some other recipe (micro-concrete?) on the main thoroughfare, to create a couple of feet of hard standing. The camber I wrote about is corrections where the trackbed isn't absolutely flat. I've been using plastic drinks stirrers, having read a
  5. If you're interested to see progress (or otherwise), click here. It will never be the work of art some people have, but what's been laid so far is reliable, without having done much levelling of camber (yet). Alun
  6. Hi, Thank you for sharing your experience. I was very tempted to go with LGB, but rightly or wrongly I had my heart set on 32mm. I'm still assessing how to ballast and whether to add the mix wet or dry then water (I keep changing my mind). However, I might need to make my mind up soon as I have just started two weeks of isolation and a big order for track should be arriving tomorrow. My vague plan was to use Rowlands Mix (or a variation) on all but the Terminus, where Swift Sixteen or similar ballast and water proof PVA might give a better maintained appearance.
  7. I wanted to take a moment to thank everyone who replied to this thread. The railway is taking shape and I'm already learning from mistakes. If I was to concrete again, I'd do it differently. The recently laid track is neater than the first lengths laid, etc. That said, 4 wheel and bogie wagons hauled by my Little John and Ragleth negotiate what has gone down without mishap and that's before most of the unintentional camber is levelled up. Also, an error in measuring the radii around "Pool" means a meandering alignment, which might be nicer anyway, if I can hide the concrete (my Wif
  8. Hi, Yes, first line of my opening post, I've been a member for 5 years. It was actually an email conversation with Alan Regan, the Chair, that gave me the encouragement to get going. Alan suggested the chord off the reverse loop, so that also functions as a passing loop. The bigger consideration is the garden is used by children of different ages and interests. Have a look at what we've done so far, here... https://flic.kr/s/aHsmNEqUW5 We've deviated somewhat from the original plans. Looking forward to your visit one day!
  9. Hi @PatB, Thank you for sharing your experiences and I intend to ballast dry, as you've described above. I have sourced sustainable medium grade peat, which will need to be sieved to get the roots out. For a bit of "Rowlands Mix" history and a few different recipes and methods, click here. All the best, Alun
  10. In case anyone comes across this, asking the same question, the answer is "yes you can" if your trackbed is perfectly level and you have long curves. My undulating trackbed and 4' curves mean 3 or 4 screws per 1 yard of Peco SM32 Flexitrack and a couple of screws on each point are necessary. Alun
  11. For want of solid brass round head screws, a week was lost!

  12. I've been following this on Flickr and am minded that: "details make perfection, and perfection is not a detail". Remarkable persistence and an end result more than worth the effort.
  13. Hi, We've the concrete trackbed and am now giving it a few days to cure properly, before removing the shuttering. We ran out of shuttering material at the end of the job, but seem to have got away with it, the dry earth and hardcore doing a job. It undulates in parts, so I've bought a load of obsolete plastic drink stirrers to even out any camber and level out gradients. The working title for now is the Elvington and Sutton Light Railway. The local railway station was called "Elvington (for Sutton)". The question: I have read many methods regarding the us
  14. This was my reply when someone wrote similar, last April... They're fine, just not a toy train specialist. Alun
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