Jump to content

pbkloss

Members
  • Content Count

    61
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

63 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Interests
    S & DJR, GWR 1925-1932 and related BR 1959-62, 1970s. modelling in P4

Recent Profile Visitors

187 profile views
  1. Brilliant, I'd like to give it a try!! Thanks for posting, kind regards, Peter
  2. Couple more photos - work on the railway room infrastructure (insulation of the garage in which it lives) has made progress on this project very very slow. So months later, I have at long last given a grey 'undercoat' to the sides partly to see what is not up to scratch (cracks, wrinkles etc!) and a base for the maroon livery that the coach will eventually wear. I've also started painting the old Triang-Hornby interior moulding. As well as painting I'm narrowing the corridor partition windows on the first class compartments which are too wide and I'll be putting in arm rests and head rests in the firsts as well. First the sides painted, still drying Then with the interior in progress behind
  3. yes I know they are on the sheet, but I think having fitted the windows and knowing how delicate the SE finecast glazing is I'll have to go very carefully applying them
  4. Oh I did also use flush glazing on the interior corridor window and paint the interior
  5. Sorry Jack I've only just seen this, and that by accident! The mods done are: Bogies compensated with MJT frames, Airfix / Dapol frames stuck on, wheels 18.83 3'6" disk Door handles and grab handles carved off and replaced by filed down dress making pins (for handles) and wire (grab rails) Under frame detail added - regulator box fattened, cross bracing added to frame struts, checked for right way round-ness as above numbers and class markings added, HMRS press-fix Flush glazed with SE fine cast parts Cards duckets windows carved out and PVA glazed Buffers sprung Outer couplings of set replaced with Dingham, loop both ends (so I can run them either way, something I've not explained at all yet in my blog, like 'Why?') I'd like to do 'First' and no smoking labels if I can (!) Still need to fix roofs and do the internal coupling Regards, Peter
  6. Are these still available? If so please email [email protected] (If that doesn't break the rules, but I'm not sure how often I look here or would find a response) kind regards, Peter Kloss
  7. I wish ... I'm still working on the room finishing off its insulated lining. Bits of board lying around and bits of wood to make the remaining baseboards. The workbench has a Mk1 composite under construction ... I will post something when I have something to show! Thanks for asking. BTW I love what you have done.
  8. Progress at last (for me): I have stuck on the top of each of the Hornby sides a strip of 40 thou (1mm) black plasticard to imitate the slotted strip that is on the top of the Hachette SK sides into which the roof clips. And indeed it does and the coach holds itself together, like the original -amazing! Needs a little bit of trimming to make sure everything lines up and sits tight. Now I need to cut holes in the Hornby interior to give clearance to the bogie pivots and the close coupler cams before screwing that down. Then its filling, painting, lining, glazing ..... A 4mm wide strip of 40 though black plasticard with slots cut to match the Hachette roof, (note not symmetrical and handed). This was welded to the top of the Hornby sides This cruel blow up shows one attached to the compartment side in place. I stuck a strip (10 thou) on top of the Hornby side as it seemed fractionally too low This shows the roof 'pugged in' to the side and proves the concept works ( for me at least this time!) The assembled coach, externally not too different to the head picture of the previous blog entry on the build, but now it is all clipped together and holds just ... This is the corridor side of the clipped together coach. Much work left to do. The hollowed out under frame is just visible ...
  9. By way of completion of an old blog entry: Before my house move I started constructing an interior from scratch for a Bachmann maroon BSK that I'd bought at Expo EM as a 'spare' without an interior (well, not quite true, it had a TSO interior!!). I described how I'd built the interior but I didn't post photos of the completed job. so here are some external views of the almost complete coach, re-wheeled in existing bogies to P4 (to see how that runs). The complete coach from the corridor side, with a hint of the transparency that putting mesh into the brake end corridor partition gives Shown a bit better in this close up of the brake end This is the compartment side, showing the effect of the less white toilet window (more realistic for earlier Mk1 builds) and the damaged lining which I've still to repair, and to give it an LM region number too .... The brake end showing daylight through the brake compartment and the effect of less white on the guard's compartment window allowing the back of the guard's desk to be seen (prominent in most BSK photos) Thats it for now on the BSK until it appears in a complete rake, (and I've another to do with original Bachmann interior!!)
  10. Some photos of the sides being worked on, showing the micro stripped and filled windows. The filler I'm using doesn't like sticking though ... plus the re-drilled roof then needs rubbing down and the door hinges reconstructed before painting
  11. Thank you Ravenser, I've checked and what I didn't say is that my intention is to only use Hachettes coupled to Bachmann Mk1s, which also appear to have the pockets at the wrong height - photo to show with my Hachette bare chassis coupled to the Bachmann BSK I've been working on ... (the Bachmann one droops a little, will be interesting to see how this works in a long rake)
  12. thanks for the detailed answer. Yes I've had problems with bogie clearances with the Roco cams, especially with compensated bogies. However, I'm only planning to use them within rakes so mounting them really high is an option for me. But I like the sound of the Symoba ones, I need to order a few to try myself
  13. thanks for the warning, I've yet to do a trial couple up, better try really soon!
  14. Well I ran out of cash for all those juicy Bachmann Mk.1s I need for my 1961 period express / through services, and so turned to that cheaper knock-off the Hachette Mk1 SK which has some resemblance to the Bachmann Mk1 .... to see if with a little work (which cost me nothing but time which being retired I should have lots of. but somehow don't really) I could make something approaching the quality of a Bachmann Mk.1 BTW - why use the Hachette rather than Hornby? because I want the close coupling mechanism, which has been kept in the Hachette Since every layout in the BR mk1 period needs loads of SKs, a Hachette coach is a reasonable substitute if you can cope with the chunky prism effect of the windows, the solid under frame detail, the moulded roof detail and handrails and the plastic axles in the bogies. Some of these things are not to hard to deal with - for instance, the solid under frame can be cut about to give daylight. The wheels can be replaced. The roof detail can be detailed with replacement vents and wire pipes. What if you want to turn it into a different coach altogether - like me, finding that I've run out of money for the CKs I need for my maroon Pines Express rake (not finding a Bachmann CK on eBay for less than £25, i need two, and one needs to have Commonwealth bogies etc)? Well, i thought I'd give it a go having got quite a few Hachettes to play with. So for my first CK, I had bought very cheaply an early Triang CK, happened to be in green 'completely knocked down' and I'm having a go at putting the sides and the interior into a Hachette SK, and transferring the Hachette's windows once I've painted and lined the sides. It isn't that hard, a bit slow, but will save me at least £20 which for me is worthwhile. However, you discover those minute differences between Mk.1s by different manufacturers, like the window sizes, (Triang / Hornby almost 0.5mm bigger all round), side length (Hachette at least 1mm longer) and side height (Triang / Hornby slightly lower) and possibly the side profile (Triang / Hornby could be flatter) ..... So what I've done is, so far: Hacked the under frame so daylight shows - reasonably successfully Removed the windows from the Hachette sides I want to use in the CK sides Removed the window bars from the Triang CK sides Removed the lining guidelines from the CK sides Thinned the ledge at the bottom of the sides to fit into the Machete chassis slots for the sides Added microstrip to the inside of the CK window openings as they are slightly bigger than the Hachette windows Cut off the SK positioned vents in the roof and drilled holes in the CK positions to take new white metal vents Carved off the SK style water pipe detail and rain strips Also had to add microstrip to the ends of the CK sides as they are fractionally shorter than the Hachette sides Still to do: Make and stick on a wide strip with slots pointing in at the top of each side to mimic the strip on the Hachette sides that the roof locks into Rub down sides Restore some lost hinge detail on sides Paint and line (Maroon), add numbers Glaze with Hachette windows plus some kit master windows for the corridor side narrow (2ft) ones Add grab handles and door handles Fix roof vents Add rain strips in correct location for CK Add toilet tank fillers Detail interior (more about that later) Assemble Make and fix tank filler pipework Do something about those wheels which don't run that well in the cheapo plastic bogies (I've crudely cut and filed them to take P4 wheels) See if it will run (!) Some photos of the sides sitting in the chassis before I attached all that microstrip with original roof ... Corridor side, some blurry Hachette originals in the background Compartment side We'll see if its worth while in a bit
  15. At least you have something to show and it looks good ... mines still at the talk stage :-)
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.