Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

79 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

111 profile views
  1. Silver Tay Models' eBay account is "silvertay". He can and does consider requests for nameplates and smoke deflectors if they are not in his current catalogue. The number of eBay listings I currently see is around 750. The ones for the Hornby Superdetail Schools are one of the options in a "muli-listing" for about 30 different smoke deflectors: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283536610878 Again, I've no connection here, but as a very satisfied repeat customer, I more than happily recommend Silver Tay Models. Plasticbasher
  2. Hi All, SilverTay models does them for the current Hornby superdetail Schools..! I know because I asked him to draw up and etch some for me about a year ago. He's on eBay and can be found via Google. No connection other than a genuinely very happy customer of his etched nameplates, smoke deflectors, Merchant Navy window frames and such like. I'll try remembering to post his eBay account user name and his contact details tomorrow. Cheers, Plasticbasher
  3. The Britannia used the same chassis as several other Minitrix models (I believe all other contemporary Pacifics, both UK and German outline). I quickly googled Minitrix motor and there are a fair few on the German eBay. I think if you pull the service sheets for this model from Lendon's very useful website (http://www.lendonsmodelshop.co.uk/?button=button2&servicesheets=none) and cross reference them with other Minitrix pacifics, you'll considerably ease your seaching. And the German eBay site looks to be a better place to look than the UK site. Wouldn't be surprised if a lot of Minitrix locos use what is essentially the same motor actually... Hope that helps? plasticbasher
  4. Funnily enough the older model (which started life as the Triang model) looks to me like what I "believe" a B12 should look like. Whereas the real thing (and the super detail Hornby model) don't..!!! I still remember my parents taking me to a toy shop a few days before my birthday sometime in about 1980 and telling me I could have any loco up to a certain price in their display case. I very quickly chose a second hand B12 in lined BR black. Loved the shape of them ever since. It's such a shame the real B12's were so inaccurate. Someone really should get out an angle grinder and MIG welder to sort out the jarring visual discrepancies on the real B12 to make it look a little more like the Triang / Hornby model....
  5. Hi Everyone, After a bit of a hiatus, I'm back and keen to crack on with the 3F. The big problem when I left this at the start of the summer was the tender. I refuse to use the old Triang tender as it doesn't even look like the real thing. I also won't attempt to buy a Bachmann one as the price will be too high. So: 1. I bought a resin moulding of a Johnson 4F tender body from Golden Arrow models (intended for the Airfix / Hornby 4F). This was £12 as I explained what I was trying to do to Chris Meacher at Golden Arrow; he kindly dug out an imperfect casting and gave me a few quid off. 2. As mentioned previously somewhere in this thread I also have the complete tender from a GBL Midland Compound (in other words a 'rip off' of the Bachmann moulding. The underframe is the part I will use here. Both the above will be combined and hacked around to create a "reasonably" realistic tender. I have been looking around for a drawing of the Deeley tender that was most commonly coupled to the 3Fs, but have thusfar drawn a blank. I can see the 4F Johnson tender is essentially the right shape, but it is definitely higher (and I think possibly longer) than the 3F's Deeley tender. Request. Can anyone either point me to a source of a suitable drawing (preferably in 4mm scale)? Or alternatively, if anyone has a Bachmann 3F and a few minutes to spare, could you please give me a few key dimensions of the tender: overall tender length (excluding buffers) length of the tender body side height of the tender body side (excluding the separate coal rails) Those dimensions are really the only ones I believe I need Thanks in advance! plasticbasher
  6. Actually - ignore about the chimney. Called the chap at 247 Developments. Neither of us knew for sure, but as he pointed out...a Jinty and a 3F were much the same "under the hood", so I've bought one (it's only a few quid with postage and comparison of the photos shows they are very similar to my eye). So the only question I'd like some more learned input on is whether I can get away with using a GBL Compound tender as the starting point for a Deeley tender!
  7. A plea for a bit of help here. 1. I'm trying to source a replacement chimney. The one that came with the 3F body was a large rivet and so has to go - well in fact it didn't survive the removal of the moulded handrails... Can anyone tell me if a Jinty chimney is the same as a 3F chimney? I can find a supplier of a whitemetal Jinty chimney (247 Developments), but not one for the 3F tender loco. 2. Tender: I'm pretty much resigned to the fact that finding one for an outlay commensurate with the budget for this loco is nigh on impossible. I have a GBL static model of a Midland Compound - in other words, it's a copy of the Bachmann mouldings. Is that underframe correct / correct enough for a Deeley tender (I'd turn it into a rolling chassis and scratchbuild a Deeley style body)? Thanks in advance!!
  8. Sorry - forgive my ignorance...what does "RWS-accurate" and "TVS flavour" mean? I definitely agree about their current loco drive mechanisms.
  9. Okay - some more progress to report. I have adjusted the clearances on the underside of the body-shell to allow the wheels to rotate freely. This was quite nerve-wracking as I carved a lot of plastic away. The splashers actually probably do have enough space for 21mm wheels (see DavidCBroad's comments on using Airfix /Dapol/Hornby GWR 14xx wheels). 21mm wheels would necessitate dropping the body a further 1mm onto the chassis and I reckon that is perfectly do-able: Easy-peasy at the front. At the rear I'd probably try to file 1mm off the "deck" at the back of the chassis block - not much fun doing that accurately without a milling machine though (my cab floor rests on the chassis block)!! The problem is the comparatively long throw of the cranks on the Hornby wheels. The crankpins and coupling rods bash into the footplate - that is what the plastic needed to be removed for. So I started by using my sharpened screwdriver like a chisel to carve "moon-shaped" cut-aways on each splasher's inner front face to clear the crank-pins. On the center splasher I really must be approaching the limit of how much plastic I could remove (the centre crank pin is longer than the outer ones and so needs more clearance). See the first photo. Now the wheels revolved freely, but as soon as I refitted the coupling rods they hit the underside of the footplate. Only a little, but they still hit it. That meant that I needed to use the same sharpened screwdriver to gently and slowly chisel away plastic from the underside of the footplate between each splasher. About 2/3rd of a mm of plastic was removed and then the wheels rotated freely. The photo's aren't great (they show all the splashers done but the footplate only carved away on one side for clarity), but I hope they make sense.
  10. Thanks! In some ways that might have been the better way here (a Bachmann Jinty chassis). I have EKM Exhibitions' Bachmann spares price list sitting next to me as I needed a wheel-set for a Royal Scot. It looks like you can assemble most of a rolling Jinty chassis for about £30 (block, gears, wheels, baseplate), but not motor. Way beyond the budget of this build though...and I presume the splashers wouldn't line up with the wheels, which would mean more work! Yeah - fully agree; however: The Bachmann tender is simply likely to be too expensive and I've not seen one for sale. It also defeats my personal objective somewhat - this is (generally speaking) a make-do-and-mend type build whilst still attempting a level of realism (note that I didn't say "total accuracy"..!!). I also don't have a 3F Triang tender. And, as it is wrong, I'm not prepared to invest in one frankly (the chassis looks too deep, so I don't even judge it a suitable starting point). The money will go on a replacement "Type 7" motor and a chimney (I'm hoping they can be procured for less than a tenner all in with postage).
  11. Photo 2 above make the body look wonky on the chassis - it's not when assembled properly...I must have nudged it..!
  12. Final photo to show where I'm at now. Body resting on chassis correctly - done. Holes drilled for wire handrails and lamp brackets - done (whistle needs drilling again and I forgot to do the three lamp brackets on the front of the footplate) Drill and tap holes to secure body to chassis - pending. Filing off handrails - part complete I need to make up some sandboxes (?) to eventually glue onto the chassis between the driving wheels, sort out the under-boiler skirt and make some new cab steps. Whistle is a standard Triang / Hornby one, the safety valves actually came off an Airfix Royal Scot (I think), but look much better than the Triang ones did) Obvious things to sort out - which may involve money :-( Tender Chimney Buffers
  13. Having added lots of plastic to the loco body, I though it about time I removed some..! I have started shaving the hand rails off and drilling holes for handrail knobs. I hate doing this as I always mess it up (luckily here less so than at other times). I'd appreciate it if anyone can tell me if they have a better way. Photo's below were taken after the actual work was done rather than during (hence you can see drilled holes in the first photo..!!) Step 1. Use a sharpened screwdriver to remove most of the handrail in the immediate vicinity around where a hole needs to be drilled (ie. for a knob). I leave it proud so I can see the remnants of the moulded knob and handrail so I know exactly where to drill. Step 2. Use a sharp point to firmly make a mark exactly at the point I want to drill the hole (I use an old broken compass from when I was at school...rather a long time ago!) . This is where I often go wrong...I have big hands and the tension of trying to be precise means my hands start to tremble (you can imagine the rest!!). Having said that, I'm pretty chuffed that these holes came out okay (except the whistle which is off the centreline...only by a fraction, but it definitely shows. Step 3. I used a 0.7mm drill bit in a pin chuck to drill the hole by hand (I never use anything like a Dremel...way too fast and inaccurate and the friction melts the hole rather than drilling it.
  14. Having got the height of the body and chassis right I also finalised the bits of plasticard added to the body to secure it to the chassis. At the front I cut two small rectangles that fit snugly between the gap in the front of the keeper plate (7.5mm wide and 5mm deep). One was 60 thou again and the other was about 1mm thick (I keep a little box of potentially useful offcuts...I believe it was part of a CooperCraft wagon floor once). These filled the gap perfectly and align the front of the body on the chassis so I can drill and insert a self tapper here. This self tapping screw will secure a front mounted (small Bachmann) tension lock coupling, the chassis and the body all in one go. At the back I added another two rectangles of 60 thou plastic card to help restrict the chassis's side-to-side movement. They were cut 9mm wide and once the glue has set trimmed until the chassis was a snug fit (I probably shaved 0.5 mm off each side). Now the chassis fits securely and 100% centrally. They don't secure the chassis (I plan to use a bolt through the drag beam into the chassis block), but they are snug. Third photo to prove the loco fits level on the chassis (it didn't 20 minutes before I took the photo..!!)
  15. Next update. I spent a bit of time (far too much time actually...) tweaking the front of the chassis and satisfying myself the body fitted the chassis properly and was level (I used a steel rule to measure from the bottom of the footplate to the bottom of the chassis keeper-plate and have a consistent 8.5mm all the way along. The rear axle is sprung so measuring it on the track is not reliable (and I plan to load up the spaces in the body with some extra weight which will affect the "ride height). The main adjustment I made was shaving fractions off the keeper-plate ahead of where the prongs used to be (as that's what the body is resting on) until I was happy The knife in the second photo is pointing to that bit in the photo below. First photo shows the loco against a Mainline Stanier tender (as I remembered I changed the wheels in the Mainline brakevan above and wanted to check height against another item of rolling stock (old Triang buffers temporarily refitted to the 3F body just to be doubly sure). Third photo shows I filled the cast printing off the chassis block at the back to make it sit tight to the cab floot (probably overkill).
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.