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  1. Actually - ignore about the chimney. Called the chap at 247 Developments. Neither of us knew for sure, but as he pointed out...a Jinty and a 3F were much the same "under the hood", so I've bought one (it's only a few quid with postage and comparison of the photos shows they are very similar to my eye). So the only question I'd like some more learned input on is whether I can get away with using a GBL Compound tender as the starting point for a Deeley tender!
  2. A plea for a bit of help here. 1. I'm trying to source a replacement chimney. The one that came with the 3F body was a large rivet and so has to go - well in fact it didn't survive the removal of the moulded handrails... Can anyone tell me if a Jinty chimney is the same as a 3F chimney? I can find a supplier of a whitemetal Jinty chimney (247 Developments), but not one for the 3F tender loco. 2. Tender: I'm pretty much resigned to the fact that finding one for an outlay commensurate with the budget for this loco is nigh on impossible. I have a GBL static model of a Midland Compound - in other words, it's a copy of the Bachmann mouldings. Is that underframe correct / correct enough for a Deeley tender (I'd turn it into a rolling chassis and scratchbuild a Deeley style body)? Thanks in advance!!
  3. Sorry - forgive my ignorance...what does "RWS-accurate" and "TVS flavour" mean? I definitely agree about their current loco drive mechanisms.
  4. Okay - some more progress to report. I have adjusted the clearances on the underside of the body-shell to allow the wheels to rotate freely. This was quite nerve-wracking as I carved a lot of plastic away. The splashers actually probably do have enough space for 21mm wheels (see DavidCBroad's comments on using Airfix /Dapol/Hornby GWR 14xx wheels). 21mm wheels would necessitate dropping the body a further 1mm onto the chassis and I reckon that is perfectly do-able: Easy-peasy at the front. At the rear I'd probably try to file 1mm off the "deck" at the back of the chassis block - not much fun doing that accurately without a milling machine though (my cab floor rests on the chassis block)!! The problem is the comparatively long throw of the cranks on the Hornby wheels. The crankpins and coupling rods bash into the footplate - that is what the plastic needed to be removed for. So I started by using my sharpened screwdriver like a chisel to carve "moon-shaped" cut-aways on each splasher's inner front face to clear the crank-pins. On the center splasher I really must be approaching the limit of how much plastic I could remove (the centre crank pin is longer than the outer ones and so needs more clearance). See the first photo. Now the wheels revolved freely, but as soon as I refitted the coupling rods they hit the underside of the footplate. Only a little, but they still hit it. That meant that I needed to use the same sharpened screwdriver to gently and slowly chisel away plastic from the underside of the footplate between each splasher. About 2/3rd of a mm of plastic was removed and then the wheels rotated freely. The photo's aren't great (they show all the splashers done but the footplate only carved away on one side for clarity), but I hope they make sense.
  5. Thanks! In some ways that might have been the better way here (a Bachmann Jinty chassis). I have EKM Exhibitions' Bachmann spares price list sitting next to me as I needed a wheel-set for a Royal Scot. It looks like you can assemble most of a rolling Jinty chassis for about £30 (block, gears, wheels, baseplate), but not motor. Way beyond the budget of this build though...and I presume the splashers wouldn't line up with the wheels, which would mean more work! Yeah - fully agree; however: The Bachmann tender is simply likely to be too expensive and I've not seen one for sale. It also defeats my personal objective somewhat - this is (generally speaking) a make-do-and-mend type build whilst still attempting a level of realism (note that I didn't say "total accuracy"..!!). I also don't have a 3F Triang tender. And, as it is wrong, I'm not prepared to invest in one frankly (the chassis looks too deep, so I don't even judge it a suitable starting point). The money will go on a replacement "Type 7" motor and a chimney (I'm hoping they can be procured for less than a tenner all in with postage).
  6. Photo 2 above make the body look wonky on the chassis - it's not when assembled properly...I must have nudged it..!
  7. Final photo to show where I'm at now. Body resting on chassis correctly - done. Holes drilled for wire handrails and lamp brackets - done (whistle needs drilling again and I forgot to do the three lamp brackets on the front of the footplate) Drill and tap holes to secure body to chassis - pending. Filing off handrails - part complete I need to make up some sandboxes (?) to eventually glue onto the chassis between the driving wheels, sort out the under-boiler skirt and make some new cab steps. Whistle is a standard Triang / Hornby one, the safety valves actually came off an Airfix Royal Scot (I think), but look much better than the Triang ones did) Obvious things to sort out - which may involve money :-( Tender Chimney Buffers
  8. Having added lots of plastic to the loco body, I though it about time I removed some..! I have started shaving the hand rails off and drilling holes for handrail knobs. I hate doing this as I always mess it up (luckily here less so than at other times). I'd appreciate it if anyone can tell me if they have a better way. Photo's below were taken after the actual work was done rather than during (hence you can see drilled holes in the first photo..!!) Step 1. Use a sharpened screwdriver to remove most of the handrail in the immediate vicinity around where a hole needs to be drilled (ie. for a knob). I leave it proud so I can see the remnants of the moulded knob and handrail so I know exactly where to drill. Step 2. Use a sharp point to firmly make a mark exactly at the point I want to drill the hole (I use an old broken compass from when I was at school...rather a long time ago!) . This is where I often go wrong...I have big hands and the tension of trying to be precise means my hands start to tremble (you can imagine the rest!!). Having said that, I'm pretty chuffed that these holes came out okay (except the whistle which is off the centreline...only by a fraction, but it definitely shows. Step 3. I used a 0.7mm drill bit in a pin chuck to drill the hole by hand (I never use anything like a Dremel...way too fast and inaccurate and the friction melts the hole rather than drilling it.
  9. Having got the height of the body and chassis right I also finalised the bits of plasticard added to the body to secure it to the chassis. At the front I cut two small rectangles that fit snugly between the gap in the front of the keeper plate (7.5mm wide and 5mm deep). One was 60 thou again and the other was about 1mm thick (I keep a little box of potentially useful offcuts...I believe it was part of a CooperCraft wagon floor once). These filled the gap perfectly and align the front of the body on the chassis so I can drill and insert a self tapper here. This self tapping screw will secure a front mounted (small Bachmann) tension lock coupling, the chassis and the body all in one go. At the back I added another two rectangles of 60 thou plastic card to help restrict the chassis's side-to-side movement. They were cut 9mm wide and once the glue has set trimmed until the chassis was a snug fit (I probably shaved 0.5 mm off each side). Now the chassis fits securely and 100% centrally. They don't secure the chassis (I plan to use a bolt through the drag beam into the chassis block), but they are snug. Third photo to prove the loco fits level on the chassis (it didn't 20 minutes before I took the photo..!!)
  10. Next update. I spent a bit of time (far too much time actually...) tweaking the front of the chassis and satisfying myself the body fitted the chassis properly and was level (I used a steel rule to measure from the bottom of the footplate to the bottom of the chassis keeper-plate and have a consistent 8.5mm all the way along. The rear axle is sprung so measuring it on the track is not reliable (and I plan to load up the spaces in the body with some extra weight which will affect the "ride height). The main adjustment I made was shaving fractions off the keeper-plate ahead of where the prongs used to be (as that's what the body is resting on) until I was happy The knife in the second photo is pointing to that bit in the photo below. First photo shows the loco against a Mainline Stanier tender (as I remembered I changed the wheels in the Mainline brakevan above and wanted to check height against another item of rolling stock (old Triang buffers temporarily refitted to the 3F body just to be doubly sure). Third photo shows I filled the cast printing off the chassis block at the back to make it sit tight to the cab floot (probably overkill).
  11. Thanks - and definitely post your efforts (I have several split chassis Bachmann loco's that might benefit from the same and I'd personally be interested seeing how you do it). The tender is my current issue (I'm not happy with the Triang option as most 3F's never pulled one of those as far as I can tell - if I had one, I wouldn't mind reworking it to match the loco if it was the "right style"; but it isn't..! See the links to photos in my reply above this one to see what I mean. More progress updates coming below in a few mins :-)
  12. Might end up attempting scratch building...this is probably the No.1 option..! I do have a damaged GBL static model of a Midland Compound (ie. ripped off from a Bachmann Compound); but it looks like a Fowler tender attached to that. But (subject to me checking), the chassis might be a good starting point I guess. Yes - thank you! I found photos of of a couple here https://www.railuk.info/steam/getsteamclass.php?item=3F-B and here https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Hitchin_ex-Midland_3F_0-6-0_geograph-2787696-by-Ben-Brooksbank.jpg...looks like mine will become one of them..! Thanks Pat....glad I'm providing some food for thought!! And thanks for the tip. The chassis block is pretty messy after all the sawing and cutting (and it will need a hole drilled and tapped at the back soon as well). Quite a bit of the paint came away with the dried blobs of Evostick it arrived here covered in - even the wheels had Evostick on them...no wonder it ran badly!!!. So it will get a total stripdown and the block itself will enjoy a dunk in Nitromors followed by a respray when I'm ready. Hopefully that, a replacement motor, new oil and careful reassembly will help (I also have a pair of new axle springs too just in case).
  13. Thanks David. Oh - don't say that..!! I'm going to struggle enough with clearances under the splashers using the existing wheels (yes, they are 19mm...I just checked). Yes - the tender...I'm not sure what to do there. I reckon a Bachmann tender on eBay would be about £30-£40 (admittedly I haven't seen one, but that defeats my self imposed minimal cost approach here) and the Triang tender is just "too wrong" for me. I did find an earlier thread on RMWeb about the Triang 3F which mentioned a suitable Ratio tender...I need to investigate that.
  14. Final update for now: a couple of photo's to show how much lower the loco is than as it came from the factory - it more or less matches the buffer height of a Hornby E2 and a Mainline brake van. Happy with current progress!
  15. Now to the front of the loco (again this is progress to date only) 1. I cut away all the ribs and so on behind the buffer beam (plastic sprue cutters were perfect for this - just be careful you aren't too aggressive and snap the buffer beam as you go) and used my sharpened screwdriver to clean everything up. 2. Then I glued two pieces of roughly 16mm x 5mm 60 thou plasticard onto the floor of the running plate immediately behind the buffer beam, between the "internal buffer shanks". I also filed some more metal (perhaps 1 mm) off the front of the chassis block. This all brings the body to as near as the right height (it's perhaps 0.5 mm too high at the front now, so I'll need to fiddle around to lower it a little). I will then need to add more plasticard small squares until it meets the front of the chassis baseplate (I plan to insert a self tapping screw to hold the front of the body and chassis together). Future photo's will make this clearer...
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