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  1. Thanks Wheatley. Is Chaos Black as brand of primer (google is not helping me out much). Cheers, plasticbasher
  2. Some of the small suppliers who do etched components might be prepared to do the etches for you if you can provide accurate dimensions / drawings /etc and they feel the components may be marketable more widely. You have to accept the latter decision is theirs and theirs alone to take obviously...it's their time, effort, willingness to do prototyping until the product is "right" and stocking we are talking about here. Silver Tay Models (he's on eBay) did some small pieces for me that now form part of his range of etched components. He's a very nice chap, a genuine enthusiast and I have no connection other than as a satisfied occasional customer.
  3. Hi All, How do people paint their spoked wheels? I have a couple of Hornby 0-6-0 chassis that started life as Thomas the Tank Engine. The wheels have bright blue plastic centres. I want to paint them black for use in some of my models, bear in mind I need to paint the front and back faces of these wheels or the blue will be painfully obvious. Spoked wheel painting seems to be a bit of a fail for me; I always seem to make a mess of it, whether spraying or brush painting. Common problems are: Either poor paint coverage or over-thick paint application. Unpainted spots that have been missed. Hence this thread - I see some steam locomotives on here with wheels that look really nicely painted in lots of threads (I'm not talking about weathering, I'm specifically talking about painting them). What are the techniques the great and the good use? Cheers, plasticbasher
  4. Minor correction and an update. I saw one of the photos above clearly showed the 3D print "layering" and I looked closer. This body shell has been printed in black plastic, not painted black. The upside of that is I suspect a layer of primer followed by a coat of black will mostly hide the 3D printing "effect". I tried gently compressing the bowed tank sides overnight using a small F clamp. Initially all looked good, but a few hours later the bowing was back. Two days ago I tried natural UV and natural heat...in plain English I am leaving the body-shell in the strong June sunshine for a few hours, clamped up. It seems to have worked and 48 hours later no return of the bowing (irritatingly the clamp was ever so slightly too tight and I now have a very small inward bow!)
  5. And finally the bow to the side tanks (you can see the substantial reinforcing ribs in the tank sides...sadly they are warping with the tank!) and the bodyshell laying on top of the scale drawing in the JH Russell book.
  6. And here are a couple of pictures to show the body height issues described above (that is a Hornby Dublo R1 on the right for comparison):
  7. This is my amateur review of a 3D printed loco body-shell of an SECR / Southern / BR class R1 0-6-0 tank locomotive which I also received from CDC Models this week. This is not wholly objective as some personal bias is exhibited in my remarks below. For anyone looking for a class history, please look at this page on Wikipedia: SER R class - Wikipedia What do you get? The (not inconsiderable) investment of £48 at 2021 prices gets you a completely assembled and painted loco body-shell which is a direct fit on the current Hornby generic 0-6-0 loco chassis (ie. Hornby’s Railroad Jinty’s, J13 / J52’s, J83’s, Panniers, Thomases etc). An extra £10 will get the loco body-shell numbered too. It comes with quite a pleasing amount of separate (but integrally moulded?) fine detail like lamp-irons, handrails and various pipes. The only assembly required genuinely is to clip the chassis into the body. Appearance Crucially, the CDC Models body-shell looks like photos of an SECR R1 loco; much more so than the 1959 Hornby Dublo (and later Wrenn) model. Overall it is a considerable improvement on what has been available for the average modeller. However, the model sits noticeably too high on the Hornby chassis, and this does spoil the look: The real R1 has a pleasing hint of “hunkered down power” which is lost by the body-shell sitting that 1.5 to 2mm too high. The Hornby Dublo / Wrenn model sits at the correct height and so looks much better in this respect. I believe the CDC Models body-shell sits too high because the cab floor sits on the top of the chassis and this dictates the height the body-shell has to sit on the chassis. The finish on the model is very good for a 3D printed model, but; The usual 3D printed “layering” is faintly visible over the entire body-shell. I repeat this is faint, but it is apparent on close inspection. This made me glad not to have paid extra for a lettered body-shell. The red paint applied to the buffer beams is a little “watery” and translucent. Two buffer heads on mine were damaged/ misshaped (I plan on replacing them with turned metal ones anyway, so will not pretend I’m personally bothered). I believe the body-shell is moulded in one piece and frustratingly there is no practicable way to get at the cab interior (which ironically looks really good…) for painting or adding crew. Accuracy I have a copy of the JH Russell book “A Pictorial Record of Southern Locomotives which has scale plans for the SECR R1 (pages 56 to 58). I haven’t got the calipers out and done a detailed measuring session, but overall the model is nicely accurate with a few minor compromises: The generic Hornby chassis wheelbase is much closer to scale than the (way too short) Hornby Dublo / Wrenn model’s chassis. I suspect Hornby’s is 1mm too short between the centre and rear wheels, whereas the Hornby Dublo / Wrenn one is about 5 or 6mm too short overall. The CDC Models loco body-shell is therefore on a more “scale accurate” chassis and so the dimensional distortions all over the older Hornby Dublo model are not found to anything like the same degree. The wheels on the Hornby generic chassis are fractionally too small for an R1 (19mm –v- 20mm); I personally think that makes the “body too high” issue visually slightly more apparent unfortunately. However the CDC Models body-shell does have some compromises to allow it to use the Hornby chassis clip fit attachments. I think this results in 2mm extra on the footplate and this is partly hidden in a slightly stretched boiler. The lamp irons moulded above the front bufferbeam should be closer to the front edge and the lamp-irons in the rear of the bodyshell are clearly moulded on (but crisply). There is no coal load present, but I think most purchasers would rather add their own than have a moulded representation of coal (which I imagine won’t be easy to 3D print). I cannot make up my mind over the boiler and cab doorway handrails…are they integrally moulded? If so the designer is a genius, but I fear for their long term resilience / robustness. Quality Generally the picture is positive. The body-shell does what it says on the tin and is effectively plug and play. Unfortunately there is distortion in the side tanks on my example, which are both bowing outwards, despite having substantial internal reinforcing strips moulded into them. o I’m pretty sure part of the 3D printing process involves curing the completed print under UV light (I stand to be corrected) and if so, maybe my body-shell needed a longer blast of UV? It might be my imagination, but I think this bowing of the tanks has gradually got worse over the past 48 hours, so I shall monitor over the next week before deciding if it is something I dare fix (hot water) or necessitates returning to CDC Models. Two of my body-shell’s buffer-heads were damaged on receipt of the loco (looking closely, one before painting silver and one after): The box and the bubblewrap the body-shell were received in were good quality and I am comfortable this was not the postman’s fault. That is of no consequence to me because the buffers will definitely be replaced. Other purchasers may not be so ambivalent at a cost of nearly £50. I suspect the vast majority of purchasers will be more than happy with the finish, but I’m keen to improve it. The minor paint issues (translucent buffer beam red and the 3D printing showing through the black paint) have made me determined to gently rub the paint down, prime and repaint; so I am glad I did not pay for the numbered body-shell. Value Here is where things get hugely subjective. Model railways is a rather expensive way to burn money and everything needs to be seen in that context - we should always remember £50 is a hell of a lot of money to many people. Assuming you want to have a 100% new CDC Models R1 tank loco, I reckon (after some in depth research taking all of 2-3 minutes) that a new Hornby Railroad Jinty can be picked up for £35 if you shop around. That makes a pleasantly accurate and reliable model of an SECR R1 for around £85-£95. The quality of finish and level of detail put the R1 at or maybe slightly above “railroad” standards, but below “super detail” standards. Given this body-shell comes from a small (one-man-band?) manufacturer without the benefits of economies of scale, I think that is a reasonable total outlay. To counter that, I think that the “offering” lacks designed-in flexibility for many people with a “modelling persuasion”. For example I would like to be able to get at the cab. I would have been very happy with “supply and fit your own” metal handrails. I would rather not pay for the painting that is part of the standard £48 offering (given I want to deal with the slight ribbed effect). However CDC Models have to pick a package they can sell in adequate volume and they probably have a better picture of their customer-base than I do..! Adding options adds complication and cost from their perspective. I reckon the painted for £48 and painted + numbered for £58 is probably a good pricing model for them and a reasonable compromise for a market that will never be satisfied… Acid test; would I buy another at this price? Yes, on balance I would. Strong Points This is the best option to get a model of an SECR R1 loco, unless your skills extend to brass or whitemetal kit construction to acceptable levels. It should also work out as a considerably cheaper option than a kit by the time wheels and motor are purchases for the kit . This is almost a ready to run option, you just need to find a running chassis. The suggested “generic” Hornby 060 chassis will be easily purchased, easily maintained and very useable to the majority of modellers in comparison to other options. Performance of these chassis is good to excellent in my experience. Current consumption will be low, DCC decoder fitting will be easy (some of the Hornby models are DCC fitted from the factory). Spares are abundant and cheap. All of the above considered, pound for pound, I reckon they are by far the best choice CDC Models could have made for this loco. Earlier versions from about 1987 to 2010 have a sprung rear axle and traction tyres, (wheels and motion are finer and chemically blackened from about 2000 onwards), but I personally much prefer the current (unsprung) chassis without traction tyres. Areas for Improvement: I’m not really qualified to make this assertion, but I suspect the curing of the printed body-shells may not be adequate (bowed tank sides). I would have deleted a central section of the cab floor to allow the body-shell to sit at scale height on the chassis block (I think that would bring the body down to scale height and may well try it myself). I would have made the cab roof a clip-fit separate component, maybe secured with a spot of UHU glue or similar…I’d really like to paint that cab interior without having to destroy half the model..! Most of the second-hand Hornby generic chassis I have encountered have broken fixing lugs (and the plastic underframes which include the lugs are frequently on back-order with Hornby). So maybe instructing purchasers to cut the lugs off and take advantage of the existing pre-drilled holes for the Hornby coupling screws would have meant a more secure way of mating body and chassis without the minor dimensional compromises the lugs have forced the designer to accommodate Conclusion An unscientific and subjective eight out of ten. I rather like this model and am impressed with what CDC Models have accomplished. I’m not blind to the issues, but I would definitely not be averse to purchasing more models from CDC Models in future.
  8. Now sorted thanks to a very lucky eBay find..!
  9. Not an update of substance, but worth noting I followed the advice and ordered a motor upgrade from Tramfabriek yesterday morning. Postie slid the little box through my letter box this morning. That's impressive both on the part of Tramfabriek, and the Royal Mail (given Covid issues impacting their available manpower etc)! I'll let you know the results by the weekend. plasticbasher
  10. I can recommend SilverTay Models for etched brass nameplates. He's on eBay and I think his A3 plates come painted (his A4 ones definitely do). I can also recommend 247 Developments for replacement white metal chimneys. Not sure if they do the A3 one you are after, but a perusal of their lists might guide you. plasticbasher
  11. Ooh...they do drop-in replacement motor kits for 25 Euros (roughly the same in GBP at the moment), but for the later models with a flywheel. I'll need to compare my chassis with the photos to see how much the flywheel changed things from a mechanical point of view.
  12. Hi All, I acquired an older Fleischmann N Gauge 7230 / 9370 diesel as a non-runner. My winter challenge for myself..! I think these are known as classes as V100 and BR212 depending on the era you model. Anyway I tested the open-frame motor and it smoked from the brushes, but did little else. A soak in white spirit removed some crud but merely made the smoke worse when I tried again. I decided that motor was scrap. I obtained a secondhand replacement motor (from France) for a fair price, along with a few other bits that were worn or broken on this loco. I gently oiled the replacement motor and it runs. However it is not as smooth as I expected and requires much more juice to start running than I'd expected (approaching half power) More importantly it gets incredibly hot very quickly (20-30 seconds). The motor spins freely by hand but I've noticed the magnets can move a fraction in the motor frame and can both just touch the armature. For reference the motor is very similar in layout to a Hornby Type 7 motor, but even smaller. And the controller I used was a bog standard Bachmann one as found in many of their HO and OO sets. I have two questions: 1. Would magnets not held firmly in place cause a motor to overheat? 2. Would me using a little paint or varnish to stick the magnets to the frame be okay or do they need uninterrupted electrical continuity to the motor frame? I have a feeling I've either blown the replacement motor using too "big" a controller or bought a duff replacement motor...!! If this thread needs photo's just ask... Cheers, plasticbasher
  13. Thanks everyone....these are now en route to their new guardian. plasticbasher
  14. Hi Wayne - you're first out the gate and so they are yours. I'll PM you "off-line" to get an address! Cheers, plasticbasher
  15. Hi All, I have a box of battered, smashed, warped, broken and scavenged loco bodies I am too embarrassed to dare attempting to sell, but offer to anyone who wants them (painting practice? scavenge bits like chimneys or backheads? scrap scene?) Here is what is there: A very early Triang Princess: plastic driving wheels, chassis is literally the frames, the driving wheels and the (?) X-03 motor, loco body is battered but mostly there, tender rolls but has been glued together Six Triang Jinties - expect broken steps, warped footplates, tar-brush repaints and one attempt (I think) to backdate to a Midland 1F. I'd say two could be called "okayish" condition though if repainted. Two Hornby 1970's "non-descript" 0-4-0 bodies (the clockwork one is actually quite useable, the other one has had "a rich and varied life"). A poorly assembled Airfix GWR Prairie kit (just the loco body), which has some separately fitted handrails. A Triang BR Standard 3 Tank - comprehensively battered and bruised. A Triang "Continental" Tank, warped, cracked and missing buffer beams etc. Triang Hornby A3 - much of the cab sides and roof have been smashed off, no smokebox door. Hornby GWR King - no smokebox door and the cab backhead and floor were sawn out (I assume to fit onto a Hornby Dublo Castle chassis or something similar). Triang 3F / 2P tender with bits chopped out of it. Two GBL LNER 8-wheel tender frames. The partial remnants of two Hornby Thomas bodyshells. I may come across some other "valuable collectors pieces" of a similar quality and throw those in too. To set expectations to the floor, I don't consider any of this lot to be worth anything,...they have accumulated through job lots I've purchased and are offered as a single bundle for free on the assumption they may useful for scavenging. Otherwise they go in plastic recycling in a week or two... I reckon postage would be £3.50ish....you'd pay exactly what it costs me and not a penny more! plasticbasher
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