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  1. I think there is a dialogue box that does allow you to do exactly that when you load changes onto the chip. If you use it I suggest you do 2 other things. Save a version that you know works before you change defaults, perhaps the factory default, so you can overwrite your new planned default with the original default if anything goes wrong. Second, istr that the button remains clicked so there is a risk of doing the same thing next time without intending to, so I suggest unclicking it explicitly once you are done. Good luck !
  2. I almost certainly have some too, I am also in Ontario. Can you describe or post a photo and I will see how many I have. I see BR60103 is in Guelph which I guess is closer for you. Tom
  3. I would also suggest reading John's (Hayfield's) thread. I have found it full of practical how to information.
  4. I have done many of that type. I use the long box mount offset types 21 , or 31, or 141. Mounted over the existing post in the existing box the length is good. I also introduce a slight bend at the mounting end of the shaft to lift the coupler head to standard height. The closure box clip does not quite hold the pivot up and flat so I use Kadee 10 or 15 thou fibre washers on the post between the coupler and the snap on coupler box lid. Hope that helps. Tom
  5. What are people using for insulated joints ? I have tried 2 ways so far but would love something in between. The existing Peco code 75 flat bottom insulated joiners recommended by Peco look so big and out of place compared to the new nice metal ones. The Exactoscale H shaped ones are very fine. They are great when hand building on a template but I find a bit delicate when laying track on the baseboard.
  6. If am assuming you want to use them in an analogue way and not DCC ? The power to the drive motor is normally left on, so not stud and probe as Sol says. However you don't have to leave the power on. I am using Peco passing contact lever switches for mine. However it only works if you hold the switch in the contact area for the entire duration of the turnout throw. I am running mine on about 6v DC and it take about 5 seconds to complete the throw. A little higher voltage would lead to slightly shorter time. You could do that with stud and probe but may not be the most convenient. If you are using them in digital mode, you can use momentary switches or stud and probe to trigger the whole operation as there are inputs into the DCC controllers specifically for that. However, that is a lot of clever electronics just to allow momentary operation. I think most people use some form of on-off-on switch. Either 2 pole DPDT wired to reverse the outputs or single pole but with dual polarity power feeds. For LEDs there are many interesting wiring diagrams on the DCC Concepts websites if you fish around. I use 456 to switch track power to the frogs and 789 are just the same, so you can use them for isolating sections or feeding power on and off to other switches for interlocking, or for signals, or for anything else you want a switch for. You could also use them for the LEDs but I think the website shows ways to power the LEDs from the previously used switch too if you have another use for 789
  7. I suspect you know that there are some weathered ones currently available. Tom
  8. The Dapol fruit wagon does measure 78 mm over headstocks and 44 mm axle centres, so a foot longer than the Y10 dimensions given by Miss Prism above, and 6 inches shorter wheel spacing than the Y10.
  9. That looks promising. Many thanks for the link, I will try that. When I search for latex glue here I get glue for making latex clothing which is an entirely different hobby :-)
  10. This page on the Hornby forum says that yours is actually equipped with a V4 chip, so is likely different to mine. https://www.Hornby.com/us-en/forum/a4-sound-decoder/?p=1
  11. I had a quick flick through that longer manual and I do not see anything obviously helpful for the F9 function question that you have.
  12. Last one on the list is a longer manual for the V3.5 than came with the model. https://www.Hornby.com/us-en/downloads/view/index/cat/31/
  13. I just went and tried mine for you. I also do not see or hear a reaction to F9 while stationary, or at low speed.
  14. The brakes aren't mentioned in the rest of the instruction sheet as far as I can tell, except for Marklin Zimo and Lenz systems. The F9 button is just a brake release sound I think and may not have any effect on the loco's motion. You are running on DCC I assume ? It says for more details on the chip go to "Loksound V3.5 Installation and Operating Manual" Failing that CV8 =8 is the reset function n the instructions.
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