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Dominion

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    LNER

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  1. I had to deal with a second droopy tender buffer beam. I am happier with the result on this one. It came off with a little leverage applied along it from behind. I used a triangle file along the rebate in the underside of the chassis molding, and also elongated the holes downwards like Ray showed above, just twisting a drill bit in my fingers. On the buffer beam I removed a little material from the top back edge. The back of that painted edge is not visible once reassembled. I then reattached, with solvent this time and held it straight for a while. Here is the before and after.
  2. This is my 60501 before I straightened the reversing rod etch, and then the after shot. The lever straightened fairly easily without buckling. I held the straight part on the top and bottom with wide nose pliers and pushed up the front with my thumb. It is then reattached with white glue. Looking at the second photo I haven’t tweaked it enough.
  3. I deliberately broke one of mine off with tweezers and reattached it successfully. There appears to be a slight groove in the running plate moulding. The rear edge of the step moulding is vertical, so if it misses the groove the step points skywards.
  4. Very nice Tim. I agree the mechanicals seem very well designed. How did you achieve the joggle in the steam ejector pipe ? Tom
  5. I had the same angled problem. On 60505. I scraped and filed all the mating surfaces I could get at easily without risking doing any cosmetic damage and I still can’t get it to sit vertically nicely. It is not too bad though. My next step if I tackle it would be to enlarge the holes in the tender chassis slightly.
  6. That’s probably what I would do now, and the single slip in the bottom left of the first picture is C&L and Exactoscale. However, I hadn’t built much track then and this is the Peco Bullhead thread after all. I am just saying the Peco products are robust so you can do this kind of Frankenstein operation if you want to. Tom
  7. This photo shows more clearly the spots where there are cuts and added rail sections. One trick is that the flange ways on the HOm crossings are 1mm, so to preserve the required 15.2 mm check gauge for ready to run OO stock, the rails in the diamond crossing are gauged at 16.2 mm, not 16.5 mm. (The same as OO-SF). Easy to do as I had to re-gauge it from metre gauge anyway
  8. One advantage of the Peco offerings is that they are quite robust, and amenable to cut and shut. This scissors in progress is quite close to Number 6 crossing angle geometry. The bullhead turnouts in the corners are cut and slightly straightened removing much of the curved departure angle after the frog. The diamond crossing is a actually a Peco HOm 20 degree crossing, that I have cut and re-spaced. Once I tidy up the gaps in the sleepers and the wiring and ballast it I think it will look ok. And more importantly to me it runs well. It has usefully less deflection than the 24 degree diam
  9. One of the early posters on receiving their A2/2 found a solder short on the back of the dcc chip socket in the tender. I have checked mine and they are fine. If you have a multimeter it is easy to check. With the blanking plug removed none of the 8 sockets should connect to any other except 2 diagonal corners should have the motor resistance across them if the loco is still plugged into the tender. If you have any other connections, turn over the socket plate and look for a solder bridge.
  10. I think it depends what I am recently accustomed to. I have spent so much time looking at Thompson Pacifics in the last month that everything else looks a bit squat by comparison
  11. The Hex frog juicer should definitely be fed from the same bus that feeds the power to the track. Good luck with the switch :-)
  12. The frog juicer relies on the loco bridging a piece of rail with a definitive polarity to the frog. When a longer wheelbase crosses the gap, it “knows” which way to set the frog polarity. My hunch is that when your short wheelbase loco is purely on top of the frog, the frog juicer no longer has the absolute reference to the known polarity rail it is supposed to match, and “forgets” what state it is supposed to be in (red or green on the leds) If this is indeed what is happening you could confirm by looking at the leds on the juicer. Watch which light switches from red to green and bac
  13. On my 2 A2/2s one has a nice and subtle line along the top of the boiler, barely visible. The other has been badly assembled and the seam along the top does not look good. Hope you get a good one. Tom
  14. This tender swap now gives 60501 a "New Type" tender like several Gresley A1s and A3s had, with turned in side sheets to match the cab and no fairing behind the front plate, and beading. Hornby's version already had the beading but not the other two features. I don't think the colour and lining match of the replacement tender is too bad. It also has spoked wheels which I think are correct for 60501. I am not sure about the height of the front plate, but overall I think more correct than the tender in R3830. Instead of shortening the rear mounting post to mate this earlier tender
  15. This is a spare tender top from Hornby's old White Knight. I was experimenting with it for 60501 to see if I had an LNER New Type High sided tender with curved in side sheets, and also to avoid the curved fairing on the R3830 model. It isn't sat down correctly yet as the rear fixing pillar heights are different. I am hoping that is the only obstacle. I can see that the shade of green and the lining are different, but so far looks promising to me.
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