[Paddington Station 1840]

Just now, Northroader said:

What we now call Taplow was originally the Western terminus for Maidenhead, before the bridge over the Thames was completed. The goods shed is contemporary with the one at Paddington, sharing the same design, but the Paddington one is larger. The Taplow shed lasted until quite recently, but then demolished, which was a real pity.

Not quite, the Western terminus was originally where the A4 now passes under the Railway at Dumb Bell bridge  https://history.networkrail.co.uk/uncategorized/SO_a405f0ca-0957-46d8-8f88-6e183bf63c0a/ The current Maidenhead and Taplow stations were opened in 1872, although I think there was goods facilities at the current Taplow site from the opening of the line.

David

[Paddington Station 1840]

The goods shed at Paddington with a photo of the goods shed at Taplow, with the Dutch hip roof I think both buildings are contemporary with each other, or are they they same building relocated? 

[Paddington Station 1840]

Hi Mike

do you draw each building as it’s own model and then bring each one into another assembly as I do or are you drawing the entire thing as one model?

 

 

[Paddington Station 1840]

Nice work Mike, I had thoughts of doing a similar thing but it would have been a distraction for me. It is useful that the drawings survive, as you know I have used Fusion to draw up High Wycombe in the broad gauge although I drew the entire site up in 4mm scale. Doing the basics of buildings takes time but adding all small details and textures takes ages.

 

One of the original building at Paddington as seen in the illustrations matches the goods shed at Taplow so I think they are contemporary and are the same.

 

David

[The station building: Walls and gables]

Thanks Mikkel on Ian Robinson models.

I have now added the small toilet windows and louvres to the gents loo which are 3D printed.

[The station building: Walls and gables]

My only concern is that your brickwork looks much more interesting than the real thing, seen on earlier photos in this thread, where the texture is far less pronounced.

 

Getting the brickwork right is tricky I printed a section on my resin printer and the detail is very fine although I cant do the whole building as my printer is too small, I purchased an FDM printer which I could fit the whole building on, although the detail is not so crisp, although maybe I can adjust the settings to get it better. 

[The station building: Walls and gables]

Hi Mikkel

the windows are very pale cream as this model is for the BR period  as this matches rolling stock I already have. 

 

As for the GWR chocolate painted windows and doors I have not looked into it recently but I think you are right probably around the WW1 period but maybe early 1920s 

David

[The station building: Walls and gables]

I have been adding the windows to my model and getting the paint brush out.

[The station building: Walls and gables]

I can print the shell without the stone heads, cills and feature courses which I might do if I don't get the painting right. The recessed downpipes were normally square 4" sitting in a 4.5" gap, I am surprised to see a round downpipe in the photo.

David 

[The station building: Walls and gables]

11 hours ago, MikeOxon said:

Sounds good.  I;d be interested to know more about how you prepare the artwork for 3D-printing brickwork

I draw the vertical mortar course first working out the corners window/door openings with the quarter brick queen closures using array tools. then fill in the other vertical mortar lines using the array tool again. it is only when all the verticals have been done I do the horizontal courses.

 

If I was doing laser cutting then I would just draw one line that the laser will follow on 3D printing I need to specify not only the width of the mortar but the depth too. In Fusion 360 I can set parameters so both the Hight of bricks, width and depth of the mortar can be set and changed if not right, I originally did the mortar at .1mm depth and width but although you could see it on the print it would have been impossible to paint, so changed it to .2mm wide and .3mm depth.

 

Also as I said before the height of the bricks was not 76.2mm (3")  high but 84mm high so had to adjust the height of my bricks to match the overall height.   

[The station building: Walls and gables]

Yes there are rounded corners to the edges of the windows and doors plus the corners but the bullnose bricks only go 3/4 of the way up before it returns to normal bricks. the stone head lintels are plain and don't have embellishments.

 

I have since cleaned the print up and trail fitted the laser cut windows which look amazing.

 

 

[The station building: Walls and gables]

I have 3D printed my Risborough waiting room it needs to be cleaned up as it is fresh of the printer this morning.

David

[The station building: Walls and gables]

Acrylic for the .2mm and romark or something similar for the .7mm

 

i am now 3d printing the entire building carcass with all the correct brickwork I think it may take same time!

 

[The station building: Walls and gables]

I have just laser cut windows for my station building the glazing bars are 0.2mm thick while the main frames are  .7mm

[Fifth bite: The station building]

11 minutes ago, MikeOxon said:

There seem to be some unusual brick sizes being used in the pillars between the windows.  Compare with the English bond courses below the windows.

Nothing unusual about the bricks between the window they are queen closures (quarter bricks) they are used at all corners door and window openings.

 

David 

[Fifth bite: The station building]

Princes Risborough does not have so much decretive stonework and the window sills are flush with the brickwork, although it would be ok to creative this if needed. I have printed off a test piece to see how my design looks, but generally I think it passes. I have just blown it over with some white primer and will see how it looks when I try to paint the brickwork.

David

[Fifth bite: The station building]

On 23/02/2022 at 07:36, Mikkel said:

Fantastic, many thanks for this!

 

 

Very helpful. Elsewhere on the forum I have seen 215mm x 102.5 x 65mm (a.k.a. 8 1/2" x 4" x 2 1/2") as the standard brick size since Victorian times, with standard mortar of 10mm (3/8"). I have been using this to count bricks and scale the drawings, but was wondering how close it actually was to the prototype. The Newbury bricks are taller but the mortar lines thinner so the end result is a height difference between 75 and 76 mm when counting bricks - which translates into very little in 4mm scale, even across multiple courses. I'll resize the drawing to suit anyway.

I am doing a similar project of Princes Risborough bay platform, I had the original plans and the up building still stands. I had assumed that the bricks were standard 3" x 4" X 9" plus I knew how many rows of bricks there was. when I drew up the building it didn't look right, when I did a site visit and the brick were 82mm between courses so I adjusted my model and it matched the drawing exactly. 

My model is drawn in Fusion 360 render attached

 

[A Lack of Diagrams]

Are you a member of the Broad Gauge Society if you are there are Data sheets and drawing on many broad gauge coaches and rolling stock.

["Ajax"]

If you type A for appearance in fusion it will bring up a list of materials you can then if its a painted item chose glossy paint then press edit and adjust the RGB values, GWR green is listed as 1, 43, 3 you can adjust the amount of refection you require and save it in the library, then by touching the part or are you want it creates the finish.

 

Going to the Render area gets a realistic view.

 

David

["Ajax"]

Have you tried Fusion 360 which is free to use, you can get colours correct and get things to look more real. Roblox Studio looks a bit chunky like lego.

 

Attached are a couple of Broad Gauge locos I have drawn up in Fusion 360 a Gooch Bogie class and a Gooch Sun class as running as a saddle tank.

[3D-printed Broad Gauge Carriage, Part IV]

I have dawn up the composite which I may try and print later and see what comes out. 

 

Do you know how the brake gear gear was arranged.

[3D-printed Broad Gauge Carriage, Part IV]

I have probably got as far as I need to on the  1854 first class coach it now has the steps and other details. at this period I don't think there were brakes.

[3D-printed Broad Gauge Carriage, Part IV]

You were lucky to find an older post that still has its illustrations.  I also made some divided 1st class compartments with central partitions.

 

I got the info from your Broadsheet article on coaches, I noticed in the photos that the 1st and second class compartments had different sizes of quarterlights and improvement on third class that had none! I can do the different sizes in my option menu. One thing I am trying to figure out is the number of compartments on each type of coach, the third, second and composite were all the same length, the first being shorter with just four compartments.  Another thing that is different to later coaches is that the doors can have hinges on the right or left.

[3D-printed Broad Gauge Carriage, Part IV]

I have been using Fusion to design broad gauge coaches too, although I have drawn one coach and have a table of options which will change length, wheelbase, number of compartments etc, with just two clicks of the mouse. I still need to add more detail but will 3D print them once most of it has been done. 

[An Ugly Duckling – Part Two]

18 minutes ago, MikeOxon said:

Your colour on my screen looked rather bluer than 'pre-1928' green and, therefore, more like the 'Holly Green' of 'pre-1881' times.  The current GWR franchise claim to base their 'visual identity' on the early broad gauge green - this colour is defined in the Wikipedia UK Railways Colours list as #0a493e, which can also be represented as RGB= 10, 73, 62 or HSL= 170°, 86%, 29%.

 

I've now found your thread at https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/171250-gwr-broad-gauge-bogie-class/

 which I shall follow with interest.  It's great to see these once semi-mythical broad gauge engines receiving more attention from modellers. 🙂

 

Mike

I used RGB 1, 46, 3 as quoted on GWR modellers webpage, the colour is changed by where the light falls on the model I have moved the sun around on these two images and the green gets darker, also the pea green lining also changes the apparent colour. The colour quoted on broad gauge engines was dark or holly green, so doubt there was much difference from the later green.