antonyvw

Thank you. That is most helpful.

Im hoping to start a smallish layout, possibly in N gauge. In my home town we used to have a large salt industry which was eventually replaced by coal sidings. One of the locos that used to operate the sidings was a R&H 4wDM 48DS shunter. Ive always wanted to have a model of this shunter and I note that Hornby have just released one in 00. I was wondering if it would be possible to have one in N gauge? Im aware that it would only be just over 28mm long, (assuming my calculations are correct - the original I believe was 13'6"), so the question is more about the chasis. Is there one small enough to fit it? If there is what would I use? As for the body, Im aiming to 3d print one so that I can produce my own. Any thoughts on this? Or am I expecting to much? AntonyVW

Thanks Shroomy I will get some ordered.

I have the Hornby railroad edition of the Flying Scotsman (R3086) to which I want to fit a sound chip. The engine is DCC ready with the socket being in the loco. The only place to put the speaker is obviously in the tender. As the wires are to short to reach from loco to tender I was wondering what wire I need to extend the wires to reach? Also as the engine and tender are not permanently connected is it better to use a socket of some sort? (If so what socket to use?) Or permanently link the two together? And again what is best method to do so? thanks for the help

Hi John - just had a look on this website and they have 4 sizes for Hornby http://www.Hornby-railway-trains.co.uk/Parts/Parts_Hornby_Traction_Tyres.htm Which one do you recommend please?

Thanks John

My young grandson has an old Bachmann class 45 which needs new traction tyres. Ive come across the following website http://www.roco.cc/en/productsearch/0-0-0-0-0-0-0-002005/products.html which sells all sorts of sizes. My question is how do I measure the wheels to make sure I get the right size or does anyone know which size I should get please?

Ok how do I check cv8? edit: Just to note. I can not read the CV numbers with the prodigy as it says err - which according to the instructions tells me the chip is not readable by the system. Neither can the select read the CVs either as it was not designed to. I suspect it is a Hornby one for a simple reason. In the box with the loco was a small package with a Hornby leaflet and a shrink rap. On opening the tender i cannot see the details on the decoder as its is already shrink rapped.

Hoping someone can help a newbie. Today at a local toy fair I purchased a second hand Hornby GWR hall class (R2743) that has had a sound chip fitted. The chap I bought it from said that the sound when the loco moves is out of sync with the movement of the loco. When testing it at home I can see that the loco moves faster than the sound being output from the chip. When comparing the hall with a different dcc chipped loco (non-sound) it moves a lot faster from the off than the second loco - which has a more realistic slow movement when first moving. So I am guessing that I need to slow down the loco when it first moves. I'm assuming to do this I need to set the acceleration and deceleration rates. This is where I'm being a little bit of a thick newbie. The controller is a Prodigy Advanced. I currently have the speed steps set to 28 but I have no idea how to change the way the loco moves when first starting up. Ive looked at the instructions but it does not really tell me what values to put in. I could not get the prodigy to change the address - it seemed stuck on 3. Using a Hornby select I was able to change it to 4 and when tested on the prodigy afterwards it was now set at the new address of 4. I know the prodigy is working ok as I have used it to change other loco addresses. Can anyone help please?

A big old cardboard box. I use it in my conservatory. When its past its useable date then I just get another one.

Thanks folk. There must have been some sort of glitch on the net as I can now access the site. Thanks again.

Does anyone know where I can get the old Comet oo frame assembly jig (LS16) or something similar? Ive had a look on the net and can not seem to find any. I know Comet were taken over by Wizard Models but for some odd reason I cant access their website. Thanks Antony

Can I suggest an odd one? Dettol. Just fill a container with some dettol and leave the parts in it overnight. It can strip paint off a plastic model without any deterioration of the plastic. Once its soaked it just needs a gentle clean up with with what ever you use to clean your airbrush - ie soft toothbrush etc.

Newbee questions. Im aware that modern models come either ddc ready or dcc fitted. Older models can be addapted by fitting a dcc module. My question is - is it possible to fit one of the dcc ready sockets to older locos? If so do they require as much wiring as fitting a dcc chip that has the wires attached? And obviously which is the better way of doing it? (fitting the socket for a plug in chip or a wired chip?). thanks Antony

Thanks for all the good info. Seems some military history is necessary when building themed layouts lol

Thanks Tony. I think part of the challenge is to help foster my grandson's enthusiasm. So Im happy to put on the odd tank or two if it helps him gain a love of both modeling and model railays in particular. And thanks for the info - much appreciated.

Thanks both. Im still at the planning stage at the moment - nothing has been built as of yet (and probably wont for a while as I'm waiting for my son to have the time to build the boards for me - well he is a carpenter after all). My young grandson wants to run just about anything so we thought of doing a preservation line. As our local preservation line has a ww2 theme every so often we thought this would be a good idea.

Im interested in building a model railway where I can occasionally run ww2 military trains. My questions are: 1 What type of wagons were normally used to carry tanks? Flat or well? Most of the pictures Ive seen on the net usually are of German transporting tanks not UK. 2 How were the tanks secured to the wagons? Where were the anchor points And finally. Were they covered over or left on show? Thanks