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scoobyra

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  1. Brilliant weathering on those VTG wagons mate, but I'd keep those JNAs away from the sunlight - they're starting to warp!
  2. I've had a few problems with it Martin, namely the fact that it expands! The problematic board joint in question is very odd, because the rails are soldered to panel pins so it physically cannot move. If I'm honest, I probably would use 5mm ply to create the ballast shoulder in future for just the reason you've mentioned. I'll try and get some close up pictures to show you how the cork has reacted.
  3. Cav and Alex, whilst I don’t want to tell you how to run your business, I think it’s not the best decision you could make. Off the back of out conversation at Warley, the Hornby version isn’t anywhere near the standard you have set, and now they will clean up, with a model that’s not as good. Competition is healthy, and I personally feel that you’re on a sound footing with the 225, and the coaches to go with it. It takes a lot to impress me and there’s a lot to be said for smaller companies who really DO make a difference. I still think there’s a lot of mileage in this project, but it’s obviously too big a gamble for you. keep the faith. Mike
  4. The new D Nuts turned up at work last week and look like this......... ...these really are a huge improvement over the original ones I used and are a doddle to fit - just drill an 11mm hole and then pull them in with a bolt and a washer. This is how the board joints look with them fitted (ignore the painting).. I've also managed to rewire all of Board A (the tunnel board) and it looks a bit like Ian's handiwork on Tidworth. Well it worked ok for him so why not do the same! I had a bit of a dilemma over what electrical connectors to use, but I've decided on some 12 pin GX20s and some trailer cable for the jumper leads. Hopefully, I'll get the other three boards completed by tomorrow evening and then I can crack on with fitting the new MBT point motors and DCC Concepts AD1-HPs. If anyone needs any Cobolt IP Digitals, I've got 9 for sale! Right, time to downlaod iTrain 5...................
  5. Yes and No Andy. I've thought about using them but I need something that won't get destroyed in transit
  6. Well I made a start on the boards last week and ripped out the wiring (not literally), and started reinforcing the ends...... .....all was going well until Friday evening until I bent down to pick something up off the workshop floor and locked my back up! Yesterday was spent mostly laying flat on the floor in agony, but on the plus side, it took the pain away from my arms and shoulder for a while! Today, I took a few dozen painkillers and attempted to crack on........ The end plates are now pretty solid so I may finally have a layout that won't fall to pieces...hopefully. There's still a few reinforcement blocks to add in a couple of places and another coat of primer here and there, but overall, I'm 90% there. James at DCC Train Automation sent me a few hundred feet of 24/02 wire for the new power buses and I'll make a start on those on Wednesday. I also had a good find on ebay for some alternatives to the D Nuts that I destroyed. Basically, they're M8 threaded feet locators for sofas etc, and have a flange that can be secured with screws. That'll fix the issue of pulling them through the end plates! Next dilemma is what electrical connections to use between the board joints.......
  7. Well the plot thickens, as they say....or should that be....'I'm just thick'? The scenic baseboards are in a lot worse shape than I first thought, and I'll put this down to the following: I didn't glue the board parts, I just screwed them together, which was a pretty stupid idea. Not so bad when you can get to the screws but almost impossible once they've got three years worth of scenery on top of them! The 9mm ply at the board ends certainly isn't substantial enough and with the fact that the screws have worked loose, the plates flex by around 5mm! I've also found another problem, which we'll put down to the layout in transit. The panels that bolt up to the board ends to form a crate, rock under the weight, and this in turn has caused the D Nuts to pull through the ends of the boards. Ian and Paul have given me a couple of solutions so I'm going to try both and see how I get on, although I'd already had some similar thoughts on how to beef everything up. Everything else is now on hold until I get this fixed.....
  8. Cheers for the clarification Paul
  9. Cheers for the clarification John, they look very similar - I'd like to see one in the flesh because the bogies look identical
  10. The sliding door MK3s have the Oxford Rail Chassis Graham, so you may be right.
  11. Watch this space for 43185........
  12. Pretty much a genius announcement! Loads of things aimed at collectors, lots of stuff for the cheaper end of the market, and a lot of sensible releases. Personally, I think Hornby have done very well here by creating a niche market. and I seriously think they've done the right thing. Long live the Red Box Company
  13. Unfortunately, I didn’t seal mine, but good old wood primer (paint) appears to be the choice of my friends.
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