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  1. For pure Victorian grace you cant beat the Broad Gauge Rovers. As a development of the Iron Dukes they look the part. Clean lines and the look of an express loco. Reported to reach speeds in the mid to high 70's they must have been a sight to behold!
  2. That would be the Fairmile Hospital! Closed some time ago and has appeared derelict in Endeavour or Lewis!
  3. I use one of these Link . I think it came from Chronos. I bought some cheap casters from Wilko and mounted them on the bottom. That way I can wheel it into the living room when I need it.
  4. I'm not 100% sure but I think you will find it in a book called something like The Lynton & Barnstaple measured and drawn. There will be others on here who can confirm.
  5. No other Wantage Road station bits unfortunately. I've attached a picture of the slabs. The smaller ones are from Wickes and are a reasonable match. They just need weathering in a bit.
  6. Print every time for me, with perhaps the odd exception of a back issue for a particular article. No need to worry about software, compatibility, storage or file corruption. Plus it will still be around in years to come, unlike say the ZX Spectrum and the games I used to play on it!
  7. I have a funny feeling that may well have been a private siding. Bridge rail was recovered from various places around the network. I do recall helping to collect some Barlow rail from a garden in Compton which is now on the standard gauge siding at Didcot. Shorter lengths were used to make a trolley/crane for positioning platform slabs in the Transfer Shed. I also have in my garden some platform slabs that supposedly came from Wantage Road when it was demolished. My parents bought their house from a railway man who had rescued them and laid them as the drive. They are bomb proof and even steam roller wheels failed to make them sink. When my parents had the drive redone I collected them and used them in our garden. I moved them again when we moved and they are now a garden path. They look to be granite chipping/cement mixture. I would guess they are about 2' x 3' and 2" thick and heavy!
  8. Well at least no one was hurt especially as it looks like plenty of children on the platform.
  9. Having once been an Aveling and Porter owner you can guess where my vote has gone.
  10. The smaller 2 cutting faces/flutes do tend to deflect as you pointed out. I found that out to my cost on my cnc router. Having had a box of FC3 cutters left over from my Instrument Making days I used those instead. 3 cutting faces/flutes and a lot more stable. You can treat them like a slot drill as the cutting faces are off set, so don't produce a pip.The extra flutes make it less likely to deflect. Being tungsten carbide helps as well. In fact I would recommend Tungsten Carbide cutters for beginners. They can take a bit more punishment than High Speed Steel and are not much more expensive.
  11. You can mill on a lathe with a vertical slide attachment. Myford were well know for the attachment. It's basically a vertical attachment with a slide that is wound up and down. It bolts on to the top slide of the lathe instead of the tool post. It then gives you x & y axis. You can mount a small vice or the job to it. The cut is applied by winding the job into an end mill or slot drill held in the 3 jaw or collet chuck. Think of the arrangement as a milling machine led on its back. I suspect you could find something to adapt to most lathes. It's made easier if the top slide has tee slots for mounting. Accurate depth of cut can be tricky, you'd need a dti to measure the depth. But I made a small stationary engine using one. Talking of drilling on a mill. It's much easier to drill on a mill, than mill on a drill. I would never recommend using a pillar drill as a mill. They aren't robust enough. The thing to remember is the Jacobs chuck on a pillar drill is most likely on a taper. One into the chuck and another into the spindle. Great for drilling, not for milling as the side forces can pop the chuck off the taper or cause it to drop out of the spindle. But it depends on the size or make of pillar drill. Dremels don't make good mills. Rigidity is the key in all machine tools regardless of size. You'd be surprised by the forces involved in taking even the smallest cut. The more cutting flutes on a small slot drill the better. A bit of a ramble but hope that helps.
  12. Very true. A 4 jaw should also be used if you are only gripping a small amount of material at the end of the jaws. The extra jaw makes a difference. This prevents your 3 jaw becoming bell mouthed as I was explaining. Black bar and castings should never be used in a 3 jaw. My apprentice instructor would have had a fit if we tried that. The other consideration is the way the chuck is mounted. A good quality camlock/ taper nose mounted chuck is far more repeatable and accurate than one that simply screws on. The 3 jaw chuck on my Colchester Student is good to 2 thou, my collets are spot on. Collets are for light work only, so more suitable for modelling work.
  13. This is the Unimat I was talking about. Link here .
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