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    If you're hungry, I won't give you a fish. I won't give you a fishing rod, either, but I may show you how to build a trawler.

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  1. raymw

    Dapol 08

    If he wants to develop modelling skills, the four to five foot is big enough. Depends if you can help him, I guess. Jim Reid, and others build very nice models out of nothing much at all, and Jim has been very helpful to others who wish to do likewise in the past. As the search on members does not seem to working too well at the mo., just search on 'cardboard' and see what turns up.
  2. There are a few reasons why you want to hire a consultant. The first is to be able to pass the blame if it doesn't work out. The second is because you know sfa about the project. The third is because you accept bribes. Historically, the folk on most councils have never been the sharpest knives in the box, certainly few have any technical knowledge, and often they promote themselves since they have vested interests in the area, builders, whatever. So, to someone whose main interest is possibly drinks at the golf club, a railway line construction will be highly complex. The trouble is, that not
  3. I had one of them, maybe 60 years ago. (the hopper wagon, that is.) Used to use the hopper mech. Surprised they are still around, and plastic not warped.
  4. It could be more fun - get the kids a pair of stilts, let 'em walk along the top of the wall, maybe walk along the beach, or give up and go elsewhere, like the warren.
  5. many tips are copper coated with iron to give durability. Filing a tip will not be a good idea, get a tip/tips of the right shape.
  6. Virtually all of silverline products are cheap junk. For electronics, get a small spade bit for your antex. You need heat and speed, not hanging around with an underpowered iron. and get cored solder, lead/tin not the lead free rubbish.
  7. The blade profile is optimised to do most jobs, most likely none of them particularly well. The offset from the centre line will have to be significant, if the friction to rotate the blade is high. So, if you reduce thart distance, I would guess you will need to take very light passes to reduce the friction caused by pressure, but not so light that there is not enough pressure to turn the blade. If you make the rear edge more vertical (the point more acute) then the tip of the blade will be weakened, and will most likely not stay sharp for long. I guess you will need more than one blade to suc
  8. fwiw, the router is most likely fine, but you'd get a better finish in ply with a decent down cutting bit. It may be a bit late for you, if you've done all the slots, but Here is a link to the sort of bits I refer to - https://www.shop-apt.co.uk/2-flute-down-cut-carbide-routers-for-wood-mdf.html A simple ply/hardboard jig can be made to limit the travel of the router since you'll need to make more passes to get the required width of slot, provided the 6mm shank will fit the B&D collet.
  9. Hi Ian, very nice experimentation you're doing there. I do not have any of these machines, but a few comments may be useful. The plastic sheet is sort of sticky. It is the type of problems that folk get when first machining aluminium without using any lubrication. When cutting plastic with a knife blade, the displaced material will need to go somewhere, generally forming a raised lip ( a burr) at the edge of the cut. However, on these machines, the depth setting is governed by the depth stop rubbing on the surface of the material, which will cause more friction, and obviously the stepper
  10. That T-shirt statement would be seen as a challenge in many parts of the UK.
  11. Got here a bit late, all the parking spaces gone, Think I'll have to go home. Pity I missed the pasties.
  12. I've not donated nothing, nor am I saying how much it wasn't (Unlike the good captain, I be not inebriated by my own verbosity). I'm also not wearing sun glasses to view black rats shirt, but I'm concerned the image may damage my cathode ray tube. Perhaps a five minute warning could be sounded before said image is transmitted.
  13. It's the same sort of apron that jewelers use when filing gold/other precious metals. The ones I've seen are made of suede
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