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Everything posted by raymw

  1. It is listed on the current coopercraft web site, that is why it no longer exists, I expect. Most likely, it was only the stock, if any that was bought from the previous owner.
  2. It was the guy in London, mentioned a few posts back. I bought a few O gauge kits back then, from a supplier. I wanted to find out more, so i phoned him up a couple of times, he knew what he was doing, which is probably why he got out of model railway kit manufacturing..
  3. I visited his 'works' some years ago. It was a cow barn with leaking roofs. It was apparent that whatever he had bought, he had no clue. There was a strigon pantograph machine, I have a later model. My intention was to show him how to use it. The condition was such that I suggested he traded it in as scrap metal. There was quite a decent myford lathe, in the corner, rain dripping on it. He didn't know how to use - he tried to demonstrate it to me by grabbing a rusty 6 inch nail, shoving it in the 3 jaw, and jamming in the tool. Stacks of soggy cardboard boxes for kits, two injection moulding machines, one not working, the other 'leaking a bit', numerous brass mould plates, with nice green patinas. The floor of the shed was the usual stone and compressed cow muck, in the usual agricultural setting. Back then, what he had was pretty worthless, and I expect he's made it more so. There is no way that you can earn a living from any of it. From the very beginning, it was completely beyond help, imnsho. The photo on his website, was either a stock photo, or from a previous coopercraft. I dread to think of how much of his and other folks' money was wasted.
  4. I've no local knowledge, so can't work out the place name, but I guess a map would get that, the rest of it, by by squinting and generally messing with the image, I make it out to be 'Notice The footbridge leading onto wherever place is the only proper way for workmen coming to and leaving duty. Any man disregarding this sign will be liable to dismissal.' I guess it means it's ok to use the bridge if you are not a workman, or if you are but not going on or off shift. I think it doesn't say what they mean to say. I think you should up-date the message it to make it more 'inclusive' ...
  5. Not sure if it's been mentioned before, but just came across this, old photos of Bristol
  6. Because he is a modeller?
  7. If you can use another font, search on-line for stencil font, there's hundreds of 'em. Or find a font generator to generate your own. If it is only a few characters, then scale them up in your favourite drawing package and add the appropriate tabs and scale 'em back down again. Here's a link to a truetype font editor which may help https://www.softpedia.com/get/Others/Font-Utils/TrueType-Font-Editor.shtml#download
  8. I am puzzled as to how the van by the railway crossing, managed to park so precisely, and I can't see the cafe where presumably the rest of the police are sojourned.
  9. simple adapter change of sizes for ducting - I've used it a number of times to connect woodworking machines to shop vacs, etc. Get a plastic drinks container, the one litre size with a gradual taper from the body to the cap works nicely. Cut it at appropriate diameter places, and gaffer tape it on, if necessary. For my purposes, it gives a gradual change of diameter.
  10. any help? http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_WDzpveFz0gk/TIzJ3oPSHcI/AAAAAAAAAZY/dLJfi0IQ8m8/s1600/662+HarmansCross+11Sep10+b+web.jpg
  11. Not very relevant, but the OKI printer I had, was not a laser, although most referred to it as such. It had rows of multicoloured leds, light onto a selenium? coated band, no separate oiling for the fuser, the ink contained the oil. I had to change it for a 'normal' laser. I was printing on 'foliac' transparency, for pcb trackwork, and the ink would not stick, but an ordinary laser's ink would. If I could remember where I put the printer, I could say what model it was.
  12. simple basic servo control
  13. Probably not the UNO font you need, but Bing or google throw up a few if you shove 'uno font' in the search.
  14. raymw

    Dapol 08

    If he wants to develop modelling skills, the four to five foot is big enough. Depends if you can help him, I guess. Jim Reid, and others build very nice models out of nothing much at all, and Jim has been very helpful to others who wish to do likewise in the past. As the search on members does not seem to working too well at the mo., just search on 'cardboard' and see what turns up.
  15. There are a few reasons why you want to hire a consultant. The first is to be able to pass the blame if it doesn't work out. The second is because you know sfa about the project. The third is because you accept bribes. Historically, the folk on most councils have never been the sharpest knives in the box, certainly few have any technical knowledge, and often they promote themselves since they have vested interests in the area, builders, whatever. So, to someone whose main interest is possibly drinks at the golf club, a railway line construction will be highly complex. The trouble is, that not all idiots are harmless. I have no knowledge of the people involved, just my general opinion of this sort of situation. Maybe those directly affected do a bit of digging into the apparent can of worms.
  16. I had one of them, maybe 60 years ago. (the hopper wagon, that is.) Used to use the hopper mech. Surprised they are still around, and plastic not warped.
  17. It could be more fun - get the kids a pair of stilts, let 'em walk along the top of the wall, maybe walk along the beach, or give up and go elsewhere, like the warren.
  18. many tips are copper coated with iron to give durability. Filing a tip will not be a good idea, get a tip/tips of the right shape.
  19. Virtually all of silverline products are cheap junk. For electronics, get a small spade bit for your antex. You need heat and speed, not hanging around with an underpowered iron. and get cored solder, lead/tin not the lead free rubbish.
  20. The blade profile is optimised to do most jobs, most likely none of them particularly well. The offset from the centre line will have to be significant, if the friction to rotate the blade is high. So, if you reduce thart distance, I would guess you will need to take very light passes to reduce the friction caused by pressure, but not so light that there is not enough pressure to turn the blade. If you make the rear edge more vertical (the point more acute) then the tip of the blade will be weakened, and will most likely not stay sharp for long. I guess you will need more than one blade to successfully experiment, but seeing as it is not doing what you want at the moment, then you may as well have a go. The photo is of three spare blades for a hand held swivel (drag) knife. the rule calibrations is in mm. They simply fit loosely in a hand piece, plenty of slack, but the blade is actually 'leaning back, and is quite acute, Because it is most likely stabbed into the sheet when starting the cut, and being controlled by hand, more sensitivity can be applied compared to being machine driven. The blades and knife handle were bought from 'the Range' a few years ago, for not much money, but it may be possible to adapt your blade holder to take them. e.g. pull out your steel blade, and drill plastic to take these blades
  21. fwiw, the router is most likely fine, but you'd get a better finish in ply with a decent down cutting bit. It may be a bit late for you, if you've done all the slots, but Here is a link to the sort of bits I refer to - https://www.shop-apt.co.uk/2-flute-down-cut-carbide-routers-for-wood-mdf.html A simple ply/hardboard jig can be made to limit the travel of the router since you'll need to make more passes to get the required width of slot, provided the 6mm shank will fit the B&D collet.
  22. Hi Ian, very nice experimentation you're doing there. I do not have any of these machines, but a few comments may be useful. The plastic sheet is sort of sticky. It is the type of problems that folk get when first machining aluminium without using any lubrication. When cutting plastic with a knife blade, the displaced material will need to go somewhere, generally forming a raised lip ( a burr) at the edge of the cut. However, on these machines, the depth setting is governed by the depth stop rubbing on the surface of the material, which will cause more friction, and obviously the stepper motors are cogging -missing steps- and as you say you may as well give up when that happens. Taking a number of lighter cuts may overcome that. Using a more brittle material may also solve that problem. The machines are flexing too much for heavy cuts, but I expect they are ideal for cutting paper and some fabrics, It may not help, and you may not want to try it, but perhaps first giving the plastic a light spray of a lubricant (WD40?) may reduce the friction, or try different plastic sheets. The software, looks to be very buggy too. for cutting any shape with lines at right-angles, you only need two' walkabouts', if the cutting blade can be retracted. Of course, more walkabouts may increase the speed of cutting the job, since it will not be taking time cutting air to return to cut the next parallel line. Do you know the final code that the machine uses, hpgl, g-code, whatever, or do you not have access to that? Best wishes, Ray
  23. That T-shirt statement would be seen as a challenge in many parts of the UK.
  24. Got here a bit late, all the parking spaces gone, Think I'll have to go home. Pity I missed the pasties.
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