Woodcock29

Try PDK as I got replacement chimneys and domes from them sometime ago. Actually I need to get more GC stuff from them soon. Andrew

Hello Tony I built this Bristol Models V2 in 1978. It was my first kit with outside Walschaerts valve gear. Bristol Models didn't supply cylinders or valve gear so I used old Triang Britannia cylinders originally and Ks P2 valve gear which was available separately. Later on I replaced the cylinders with NuCast cylinders and also fitted a NuCast chimney. I think the boiler is a bit too narrow at the front end - the opposite to the Bachmann body! Also the boiler handrails and vacuum ejector pipe are a bit too low- this was dictated by the position of the superheater header covers. The lettering and lining is mostly the old Kingsprint with some hand lining. I don’t run it very often. At one stage I planned to rebuild it with a NuCast boiler that I got as a spare but other priorities prevented this - particularly my growing interest in pre-grouping locos and coaching stock. Regards Andrew

Hi Jesse Congratulations on getting this far. The fact you are very happy with how it runs is terrific news. I would definitely be filling in the gaps. Here in Oz I tend to use Plastibond which is available from hardware shops. I'm wondering how straight the chimney is ? If its not straight its worth the effort to remove it and refit it as I see the chimney, dome and smokebox door as the face of the loco and well worth extra attention. It appears to me that you have soldered it on. I would tend to fit chimneys and domes with 5 min araldite as this allows a short time for adjustment. Although I haved soldered where you can get to a spigot from below. It may not be possible to easily remove it. If its not straight and you damage it I should be able to supply you with a replacement. Regards Andrew

Also Jesse, as David Lord is the Archive Officer for BRMA, his contact details are at the top of page 2 in The Clearing House. And also further down page 2 as Central Coast Area Rep. Andrew

Hello Jesse I called on BRMA Member David Lord up at Ourimbah on the Central Coast on my way back to Adelaide from the Gold Coast yesterday. He still has quite a number of Yeadons that you might be interested in as well as an almost full set of RCTS LNER Greenies in case you haven't got those. You can more or less name your own price. Regards Andrew Emmett

Jonathan I don't have drawing for a J17 and as I'm on holiday at the moment no access to other info like my RCTS Greenies so can you tell me how much longer the footplate is on the Crownline J17 compared with a BEC Kit? Andrew

Tony I was very happy you made it into Silurian as that is one of my favourite A1 names. Andrew

Re: Bec J17 The kit in thegreenhowards' post above appears to be the later Bec version as a very close look at the photo appears to indicate it has the correct spectacle shape and the cab roof was more correct on this later version. (Edit: your latest photo posted whilst I was writing my post does indeed show it to be the later Bec version) I rebuilt the earlier Bec version back in the 80s. My father had originally built it in the early 60s before we left the UK. I did at that time continue to use a Triang chassis albeit now fitted with Romfords and eventually a Buhler/Ultrascale motor/gearbox. I also fitted a better chimney and more correct diameter smokebox door. A couple of years ago I was given a box of badly built kit locos which included a Bec J17 but the later version I think - can't check as I'm currently on holiday. I've been thinking about rebuilding this at some stage but as Tony often says one spends a lot of extra time rebuilding something someone else has botched! And there are too many other priorities at present. Maybe the best option for a correct chassis would be to ask PDK as they do what appears to be the old Crownline brass J17 and I know they do sell separate parts as I've had chimneys and domes from them. The chassis maybe in a separate etch of its own? Andrew

Tony That's a curious A1 - some of the valve gear appears to be off a Hornby Dublo West Country looking at the combination lever and return crank! I tried the other day to make my contribution on inspirational layouts but kept getting timed out on RMweb on my tablet. Works much better on the home desktop PC. Andrew

Hello Tony My contribution to the wheel cleaning discussion. I've found that my kit built Portescap powered locos hardly ever need wheel cleaning - I think this is due to the way their brushes are set up which is a series of fine wire whiskers - which probably minimises any arcing. My smaller kit built locos are fitted with a variety of motors from old open frame DS10s to various size Mashimas - all seem to need regular wheel cleaning - some of these have fewer wheels picking up so that might be part of the issue, although quite a number have pickups on pony or bogie wheels which clearly helps. RTR locos are highly variable - my Bachmann Patriot seems to regularly get dirty wheels yet J11s hardly ever need cleaning. Hornby locos also are quite variable - however the older they are the more likely the coating on the wheels will wear off exposing the brass tyre which then gets dirty more quickly. I have used an old Triang wheel cleaning brush for years - basically its an insulated brass brush which is live on both sides - of course this has a tendency to wear off the coating on RTR wheels but with solid N/S tyres on Romfords/Markits its fine. I also often now use a cotton bud with white spirit for RTR loco wheels. The graphite debate! A lot of my mates swear by the graphite they've had on their track for years and constantly threaten to bring their pencils around when operating on my railway. I'm getting closer to trialling it on the separate high level part of my layout (LMS). One issue is that if applied too heavily it has a tendency to clog everything up (in the early days two mates applied it as a powder in white spirit by the bucket load!), eg getting all over brake shoes and when you handle such locos you get it all,over your hands and before long its gets onto paint work and is not easily removed. Applying it with a graphite pencil in only small amounts does eliminate this issue. I've not tried any pads attached to rolling stock but have contemplated this over the years - I might get a few of the Gaugemaster pads before I commit to graphite. Regards Andrew

If they do an LNER RT boilered N7 I only hope they line this one in red as it should be pre-WW2. Andrew

SE Finecast do a kit of the N5. My N5 is the old Millholme kit. Andrew

I consider myself to have been very fortunate to have met Roy and to have visited his Retford three times (2008, 2013 and 2017) considering I live on the other side of the world. Each time Roy was most welcoming. Having the privilege to operate Retford is something I'll never forget. Driving an A4 with a heavy train south through Retford took some practice. I was also most fortunate in being able to take others from Oz with me on two of those occasions. The last time in 2017, Roy had had some form of back surgery the day before we visited but still he welcomed us even though he was in some discomfort. He told me then that Retford would never be finished. I can only hope it is possible to save Retford - one of the most inspirational layouts I've ever seen or am likely to see - it would be a great memorial to a truly remarkable man. My condolences to Roy's family and friends. RIP Roy. Andrew Emmett

Tony Great words about Roy Jackson, one of the most highly regarded modellers I have ever met. I have been most fortunate, even though I live on the other side of the world, to have visited Roy three times (2008, 2013 and 2017) on my visits to the UK. Having the privilege to operate Retford is something I'll never forget. Driving an A4 with a heavy train south through Retford took some practice. I was also most fortunate in being able to take others from Oz with me on two of those occasions. The last time in 2017, Roy had had some form of back surgery the day before we visited but he still welcomed us even though he was in some discomfort. He told me then that Retford would never be finished. I can only hope that it is possible to save Retford - one of the most inspirational layouts I've ever or am likely to ever see. RIP Roy. Andrew

Fatadder It looks to me as though it is more or less in the right place as it is. On Gresley pacifics the firebox base is in line with the front edge of the second side window, ie it occupies most of the leading windows. Andrew