beeman

Correct After mailing the SAME address again I received an APOLOGY from the that although they had discussed the proposal the had admitted they had failed to acknowledge. SMARTARSE you SSEL OPINIONATED BASTARD NOW BAN ME< ###### YOURSELF.Beeman.

A 'thankyou' for emailing to them the Councillors email address , and 'opening a door' for them would have been sufficient, any results pending. Your idea of civility and good manners does not concur with mine. Still some people can't help it. Beeman.

Andy Y, I had been in contact with them by email previously and made the suggestion pre my contact with the councillor, to which they replied and were interested.actually stating a 2nd camera could be contemplated. neither was my mail to them returned as not sent,No jumping to conclusions here. Beeman,

A few months back I suggested to the 'owners' that this was not in the best position. I then contacted a member of Dawlish Town Council with a suggestion of a possible shared financial input from the Council toward the cam, The idea being to promote Dawlish along with the original reasons for the cam,especially If it were mounted somewhere near Coryton Cove. The railway would be a much better view along with the Dawlish Seafront, the Classic photo position for many views.. The Councillor asked me to advise the 'owners' to contact him direct with a view to discussing my suggestions. That I did do. So far the 'owners' have not had the decency or civility to reply to me after asking them to advise me of any successful negotiations regarding. This would be in a far better position and viewpoint if an amicable arrangement could be made to both parties. I have no gain from this whatsoever other than to see it positioned where it would be better than at present. Which I feel is very poor siting along with the quality.One only has to look at some of the other cams to compare. Beeman.

Hi Deev , when suggesting chain/sprockets I was thinking of Chinese bike parts, reckon cheaper than belt bits, or knowing me I'd be having a look in the local scrap yards. just a suggestion. The backlash won't bother to much if you 'sense' the stopping positions/registers from off the moving 'table', The circuit I posted for a T/T would be ideal as it slows down pre stopping, so reducing any inertia/overun due to weight.

Sound idea Deev, or inverted to position the belt, or chain so it was under the actual traverser bed/frame. Means of course the drive motor/gear unit which would then be on the U/S of the bed/frame as well, strength/weight taken into account. Rather than a shaft, a tube would have less twist , perhaps aluminium to keep weight down with suitable ends, intermediate support bearings needed to eliminate sag over the length proposed and if motor/gearbox mounted midway, minimiseing any twist. Cost could be reduced if happy to buy your points/ motors at a Model fair, I found cost usually around 35/40% of new, close inspection to make sure good. and unless computer controlling then why not a diode matrix for route selection ?, accessory decoders rare S/H as yet. Many of my points are the old steel/die cast bladed ones where not seen and as long as they perform, OK.. I get almost nil probs with them on DCC either, but this may be due to fitting as many wheel pickups as poss. and DCC. H.F. My previously suggested idea advantage is if the roller bike chain was fixed to the U/S of the bed it could run on the edge of the support aluminium/steel angle so supporting the whole thing as well as providing movement, so additional runners only at ends, or intermediate depending on length/construction.. Stepper motors fascinate me as much as others, but don't forget. you are programming/referencing the motor, not the final movement, so any backlash in the 'engineering' can show, no matter how accurate the stepping, Pays to evaluate as many Ideas as poss., Few for thought Cheers Beeman.,

Further to the post re Traversers , although seeing no gain against a fiddle yard, pondered how I would proceed if wanting to do myself. A few ideas for thought. rather than screws, Bike chains and sprockets, the chains sliding on the edge of a metal angle, obviously all needing to be fitted to a substantial support frame. Chain sprockets fixed to a cross shaft with suitable bearings. The table itself , 22mm Particle flooring sheet, heavy but rigid in itself with additional supports needed to stop any sagging, Or maybe aluminium angle screwed to u/s. to stiffen, subject to the sizes decided. Suitable tension devices needed at one end for each chain. The chain fixed to the table u/s, screws not rubbing the angle edge, or perhaps using wider chain joiners in suitable positions. The outer support could be wheels fitted to the underside of the table running on a further angle ’rail’ . The drive on one cross shaft, preferably on end, especially if further belt reduction reqd..to reduce the speed further , using a suitable motor gearbox unit or discarded battery drill, timing gears/belts, readily available from robotics equipment suppliers. This demonstrates that this type of ‘accessory’ needs to be well engineered to be successful particularly if automatic. I imagine the original post pic. of the ‘monster’ was created for a large layout having very large space available for a reversing loop facility, Few ideas/suggestions for those wanting. Beeman.

I am assuming you will use lengths of flexi track. or at least would need around 6ins or more at the ends when a small screw and washer is used to screw down with the washer clamping the last couple of sleepers.make sure its small enough on diameter NOT to foul wheel flanges, or file 'flats' on oposing sides.. This will allow some lateral movement for alignment if adjustment is needed. you are only looking to move fractional mm max. But sufficient to stop derailment. This would perhaps be best on the drop down, fixing the track 'permanent' on the actual baseboard. It is surprising how things move slightly due to temp/humidity. If you ballast/PVA your track, generally it wont shift once setting solid, not tried the Copydex option myself but users suggest it makes quieter running, resilient rather than solid. worth doing a few sample tests to satisfy which you feel happy with. Re the pics posted by Mike,, I would fit the two battens on which the bridge 'sits' a fraction low, always easy to adjust the bridge up/down with a bit of thin card on the batten, the bolts where there is no need to have to disguise if wanting to scenic the bridge. and why fit the baseboards inside the frame edge supports rather than on the top. This means if intending to scenic there will be TWO joints to hide rather than one. Sorry, just advising. we often learn by mistakes. Cheers Beeman. Attached a pic of the 'adjustment' capability fitted to my VSU. . using both washers and plates, hope it helps

Always fix the track on one side only , on t' other leave so it can be tweaked slightly by using a washer and screw on the last few inches. any movement in the wood may need adjustment facility. computer 'D' plugs always useful for connections rather than strip connectors. Beeman.

Ho Dave, The opto switch on my installed T/T is capable of being operated by 1mm wire, the wire entering/moving into the slot until the o/p from the transmitter half is reduced sufficiently until switch off .this applies to either direction and chosen as it will switch a small relay direct. As Duchmaster says scrap equipment can be found, recycling depots, boot sales.S/H shops etc.very cheap. Most PC printers and scanners have a suitable belt along with the tooth gear on the drive motor. A lathe was needed to machine the video head drum into a useable flanged bearing. this only needed for a T/T of course. Rather than your suggested spring, I would fit a suitable counter weight. I include the later circuit with some notes that uses the relay rather than the opto switch. Each 'road' register operates the appropriate micro switch, disabling the relay power. The tag/nib which must run close to the register end soldered to the armature drops back to the register end.The retaining contact opening, motor supply now being via the speed reducing resistor. The motor contact opening when the tag reaches/enters the slot. Thus stopping and providing the accurate stop. The relay armature was tweaked to give a bit more movement.This relay type is very suitable for this application, and as said if the 'circular construction was 'straightened out' ideal for a traverser. The registers would be fitted to the traverser table itself so 'solidly' connected in relation to each road. and no backlash if counter weight fitted. The suggestion of an old battery drill motor/gearbox could be useful, the trigger speed control could be adapted to give a preset o/p speed, perhaps mounted with a screw adjuster pressing .Try an old resistance or transistor controller direct to the motor, should not take much to move being flat.The main critirion will be to make an accurate rigid traversing frame/unit. If you can fit 2 coupled screws at each end the track on which it moves can be less accurate. The length you aspire to will be a major prob due to sag. Cantilever brackets fixed to a solid wall with rollers on each may be reqd, So very good alignment will be needed, along with a metal supporting frame under the deck I suspect. My VSU needed 5 supports along each level Good Luck keep us informed of your progress. .Beeman ps A traverser would only need one register for each road, A T/T needing 2 due to either end needing to stop at the chosen position. Re. Dwg notes, once the relay is disabled, the spring pressure of the contacts on the armature presses the nib against the edge of the register until the slot is reached, as the nib enters the slot the motor contacts open. The nib position must be adjacent to the register before the micro operates. A further pic for clarification shows the need for only 2 cams to operate each road micro switch. the micro sw. mounting position being relative to each road. position.

Running the vid of the huge traverser in the first post, watch closely the 'elevating bridge' section, there is some sort of mechanism for alignment to the traversing tracks. It can be seen to 'twist' slightly as it enters the locating dowel. Also when the loco exits it zig zags a little. This suggests the traversing is not perfectly accurate due to some backlash, which I would think unavoidable in such a large unit, I like the 'weights' on the 'bridge', bolts held on with masking tape. never the less 'Brilliant' if the room/stock available. Beeman. ps A further look shows that there is a dowel location plate, assumedly adjustable, at the end of each track, the male dowel being on the u/s of the ' bridge'.

In my previous post the motor/gearbox unit was around £2.00, the belt and centre bearing from scrap VCR and PC Printer, micro switches and various other odds and sods ..Scrap microwaves can often yield a few microswitches.Can be bought from 50p- £1, number needed depending of roads.The relay was a PO 3000 type from the bit box. a bit more difficult to find these days. An Arduino controller alone will cost at least £25.00. I do not understand why some are prepared to throw money at a project, no better in performance, perhaps not as good.. One modeller recently produced a very elaborate made stepper motor/electronically controlled T/T, I asked how accurate was the stopping , this had the silly worm and relatively small diameter gear on the center shaft. Backlash unlimited.!!!. So far, no reply. It is not electrically possible to produce a simpler electrical circuit that works accurately and automatically as my effort. Sorry for my ego but the facts/ results are positive proof. I could guarantee that a 'straightened' out version of this would work perfect if applied to a traverser and as said previous, one is controlling the motor, when using 'steppers', so no play/backlash must exist in the mechanics, otherwise the accuracy will be lost. 'Dagworth' recently stated ' why do I bother' with advice, why do I ?., considering my VSU carries 24x 5 coach/goods sets and works. Case rested. Beeman.

Further to position stopping , I recently built another turntable to see if I could better engineer, which resulted in re-hashing my existing T/T. In each case I blu tacked a laser on to the deck, projecting from the deck center point onto the wall 3.2M away. The repetition of the stopping position, both clock and anti clock was within + - 5mm of a pencil line on the wall.Attempting to work this out as to the difference at the end of the T/T rails I reckoned around 8 to 10 thou. Available for anyone to visit/see who may wish, p.m please. next Sunday its Brittannia or the Duke on the turntable, Churston not mine.Steam on Torbay Express. The recently built unit, not fitted,made to replace my existing if needed, was operated by a similar geared motor/belt but the stopping device was a small metal tag soldered to a relay armature, into a 'road' register slot.Whilst stepper motors may be accurate there is always the question of any play/slack/backlash in the drive mechanism that needs to be factored in. Sorry to disagree 'Kenton' if a traverser is on rails and trains need to be run on/off both ends, both need to align accurately, there will always be some twist created by friction/drag.The precision needed to achieve being well outside the capabilities of the best modelers. . .A sector plate only needs accuracy one end. I would also suggest with experience of my VSU, irrespective as to how accurate a traverser and stopping is made, some track adjustment is available at the ends. IF timber is used temperature and humidity changes will affect slightly, adjustment being required occasionally,. Beeman. I have just found that many of my pics are available in My Media Library, Thought I had deleted some of these, pics of the mechanism I built are within. The slot shown in the 'road register' is a single hacksaw blade cut, a few thou wider so the tag can enter.the screw in the register providing a little adjustment.

This topic is of interest to me as a comparison to my V.S.U. and turntable/s. The problem with a single screw would be attempted twisting of the traverser frame,If 2 screws were used , one each end would eliminate as long as they were coupled, rotating together. Another option would be timing/toothed belts available in lengths of over a metre.{ RS Comp. dunno whether they will supply non trade.] Again possible to use an old power drill or similar for the drive . Forget the complicated electronics for operation see http://www.rmweb.co....h__1#entry88907 My circuit here would be ideal for operation, I also used a slight mod on this a year or so back for the V.S.U. The great advantage of this is the 'slow down' when approaching the stop position. This would of course need the appropriate resistor values relative to the chosen drive motor. A circuit could not be made any simpler than this, and the accuracy of stopping is determined by the 1mm wire interrupting the opto switch. The pics on the link are now obsolete since making a 'proper' large pulley and generally tidying. The belt now having a spring tensioned motor gearbox drive making smoother. Link to similar for ideas http://www.rosewarne...alTraverser.htm I wonder if the previous link item was successful using the one screw and linking system to each end ?. My VSU used two car screw jack screws, 2 worm gearboxes with a coupling shaft connecting. similar to what I would do for a horizontal traverser. http://www.rmweb.co....orage-unit-and- backscene/page__p__311277__hl__alangdance__fromsearch__1#entry311277k/commu Hope this provdes some ideas, good Luck Beeman.

Could not agree more but when advice is sought , given, perhaps being obtained after previous variations and failed attempts, and one sees the advice seekers still go down a similar path that was not successful , it might make some say 'bu**er it. why bother. In some instances the old adages 'old heads on young shoulders', and 'learn by your mistakes' might apply.Beeman.

I hope those contemplating flick free lighting appreciate they have to remove one of wheels on each coach axle and re position correctly to fit the pickup springs,also this method connects only 4 wheels with the track. Still maintain 8 is better, and the likely reason for the additional units, and why bother assembling lighting strips when available in ready made up sticky back strips one can cut to desired length as 'cheap as chips', ' You can take a horse to water' etc., c'est la vie Beeman.

Am I missing something, Re MartyMc post. If a decoder is fitted to each coach then cost for each will be around £12.00 minimum for a decoder, if the flickerfree kit is added than that is around £25 .00 total plus postage, 5 coaches will cost nearing £100.00. If I had to pay out that amount I would forget it. Also Re mikes rail, I got 33 lengths =5mtrs for £9.99,and looks just the same as his pic. Its just gone up in price to £10.29 inc del. At mikes rail price that would be £59.40 for 33 x 180mm lengths.and as I said the strip I bought had 60 leds /m, some of the strips out there do not have as many leds. Reckon the seller to mikes rail bought from the same supplier as me, and making a good profit. Time for some homework by some methinks. Beeman

Suggest you use the search facilities to peruse articles on coach lighting on the various forums, along with a visit to your bank manager. Yes one can make each coach switchable from your controller, then you will need a decoder/pickups to each coach plus coach lighting if you buy as kits..Pickups will create some braking effect whatever method of pickup you use. as they ALL rely on touch contact. If you search for some of my advice you will see I adopted fitting 5 thou brass wiper pickups to ALL 8 wheels, and after trying a number of differing methods have stuck with that method, also recently connecting thro from the brake to another 4 coaches. This method reduces the overall drag against each coach having pickups, each not permanently connected to the next, still allowing parting if needed. I have just completed my 10th set, so must be satisfied. Some using my motor stuffed decoders where the Auxiliary and lighting outputs still ok. These fitted in the brake to enable a reed relay switching all 5. The stuffed decoders set to same address as loco, So allowing for change if desired. obviously may need address changeing to changed loco. some sets not switched at all . a couple with a small slide switch in the brake corridor connection.To do as you desire will be an expensive excercise. I have changed my approach to lighting since my first foray, experience being generated, I get no flicker if the pickups are set correct, obviously the more pressure the more braking. So do not need any flicker free kits. Originally I used individual leds but since opted for the led strips, best value on ebay at around £10.00 for a 5 m.strip with 60 /m, 3 leds per section on the strip.so 12/15 leds /coach warm white. These can be cut in multiples of three each with their own resistor for 12v. They are too bright and around +/-500/600 ohms still needs to be in series with each strip. I have also used 'Quality Street' wrappers to enhance the colour further. Some of the old Triang Thompson teaks I fitted with the old Kitmaster paper printable interiors free on the net., but needed some aluminium foil sticky tape in the plastic roof interiors due to them being translucent, to stop light emanating thro, and of course metal wheels.. This making the brake, the power unit, and reducing the need/cost for metal wheels on the others. This will apply to most of the older models of Mainline/ Hornby having plastic/ metal tyred wheels Fitting coach lighting needs one to be capable of soldering etc, if you are capable of fitting decoders and associated kits then to DIY along with pickups should not present probs. for you. There are previous posts/pics showing how I did it. Good Luck..Beeman

Seems I concur with much already said. Being 'Steam'driven my feelings are unfortunately replication is almost impossible over the range other than what a shunting engine gives, Modern traction/diesels to me comes across as OK. The option of 'Layout sound' from a proper digital surround sound system is one I've not actually heard so cannot comment.As a form of alternative, and seeing a multi sound player for some £130 !, I have recently been 'Playing' with recorded actual sounds for locos pulling away from the station using these greeting card recorders, available to record 10 or 30 secs. http://www.no1gadget...r-greeting-card A number of these are loaded with a choice of actual recordings able to be 'directed' to appropriate parts of the layout by selecting that locations speaker thro rotary switches. In one instance reed switches either side of tunnel mouth , this surprisingly operates by Ringfield motors fitted with Neo magnets, others locos need magnets fitting. Each units on board button batteries are removed and a common rechargeable pack connected. The recordings were off the net and doctored/edited with the 'Audacity' free program which I find good. I constructed an automatic shunting system on part of the layout reverting to a DC feedback controller which allows for some acceleration/deceleration on each movement., The control system allowed me to use 2 of these recorders, the first giving whistle and chuff start, even the graunching over turnouts ,the second the hiss/ clanks etc as the loco stops and changes direction. Switch closure starts the playback, the switch opening stops it..Sounds are repeated each time direction is changed, main disadvantage is the fixed speaker position, but there again most things with our hobby have some compromise. The pull away sounds are split into Duchess, 3cyl LMS, A4, and 4cyl LNER. with separate similar whistles for use elseware. As long as I judge the timing correct it very pleasing to hear the A4 chime and the 3 cylinders as it pulls away before entering the scenic break. tunnel Beeman

Re oldies, had a problem with a chip couple days back in a loco. It decided to refuse to respond, replaced and OK. I purchased this loco thro an ad in Railway Modeller some 30 years back, ironic the seller was local.to me.. It was a Hornby Dublo 8F, still going strong, perhaps not the detail in comparison with todays offerings but DCC converted and still runs like a 'sewing machine', what price spares , quality against detail, ?. Beeman.

Wonder if you would contemplate buying a car if the maker said he did not produce spares. good job we have more than a few car manufacturers to chose from, although those now giving 7 year warranties should mean you wo'nt have to purchase spares for 7 years. or those who suggest their warranties can 'last a lifetime', Time will tell at least with the cars. Beeman

I find many articles on using servos, and good for the price, but by the time one has purchased the control unit it starts to become expensive. Does not anyone use a simple geared motor with a crank on the o/p shaft, the length of the crank can be adjusted to give the correct 'length' of movement needed for the signal arm, a push button or switch to rotate the crank thro 180 , a further momentary push to lower. No expensive control units no limit switches.. A company selling electrics for robotics etc is selling small high ratio motors suitable. ok no good for the 'rivet counters' wanting bounce, but the bounce for me seeing vids of the results looks so artificial , a waste of time. keeping it simple is always more reliable. A more realistic bounce if you are insistant would be to operate by a suitably profiled cam. Beeman.

About 2 mths back decided to change my supplier. Was given a date for the c/o and asked to send in the Dual fuel readings. Did that then received final bill from EDF. The gas was as read but the Electric was estimated high.Attempted to contact a DISGUSTING customer support, took around 25 mins to speak to someone. On top of Emails and phone calls to both suppliers, still has not been resolved to date although have paid E-ON a bill from the reading I provided, and a second monthly bill today by credit card.I originally arranged the E-ON account for quarterly payment on receipt of bill. This has supposedly been corrected today.Am I correct ? if one pays monthly the first block of units at the higher price will be levied every month,with the remainder at the lower price, applying to both fuels, Or is the first block figure split into three monthly amounts ? If it is NOT, then against paying quarterly one will be paying for THREE lots at the higher price as against ONE if quarterly, and how does this work if you are on direct debit, be interesting to hear members issues from what seems to be a cockup system. I was under the impression that the new supplier provided the figure to the old supplier at the c/o.In my case I calculated that there was a difference of £23,00 odd between the estimated reading EDF have used and the actual reading provided to E-ON. nice for them if people pay up and do not query. Beeman

Considering the 'suggestion' name and shame ' has been used on many occasions to identify a wrong doer, I find it odd that an earlier poster decides to 'keep mum' about the item/seller etc, I think I am correct in suggesting, Its ok to give medals to sellers on ebay but if they have had a 'decent' feedback record,but then sell only one 'bum' item', this only acts as a minus point against their other plus points. Bit like a first time criminal offence, Any BAD feedback should be highlited by ebay, this would also reduce their dispute procedures,, Any good honest seller will describe his goods correctly, I too bought a loco described as being Mint but motor caput, There were numerous faults with it far from just the motor burnt out, fortunately I managed to correct. Alsosuccessfully bid for a Reverse parking sensor, the seller refused to contact me assumedly as the price was well below what he expected, glad I asked if he would accept a cheque beforehand, and ok'ed. If payed by paypal iI think I would still be waiting. Would it be prudent to suggest that on the forums we have a list generated of bad sellers, no need for actual names and addresses, just the 'handle' they use, this would help deter members from being 'conned' providing they checked before bidding, Beeman.

Further Ebay idiots, I see a buyer has just paid £30.00 inc p/p for a Replica Bi chassis , had he checked out the Replica website ,a chassis c/w wheels /motor is available for £15.00. + p/p , and this will come with a warranty, MAD, Beeman.