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  • Location
    Regional NSW
  • Interests
    Scratchbuilding, 19th century railways, 7mm scale, live steam.

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  1. That's all looking very impressive Pete.
  2. Thanks Pete. A more correct order would have been to first put things on that can't be moved! I don't think I'll ever make enough of these things to get in the habit of thinking that sequence through though. It should have gone leaf spring pockets, brake hanger standoffs, lubricator, cylinder drain operating rod with everything left in place while the subsequent bits were made. That would have saved me about a day of re-working the lubricator, it's bolts, and it's outlet, and left me with one less fitting and a neater result. As it is it looks hap-hazard and messy and rightly so be
  3. As mentioned above December and January have been all about trying to get the frames and everything attached to them complete and painted. Still not there but getting close. It took a great deal of work getting the lubricator to fit again because I put it on 2 years ago and since then added spring brackets and cylinder drains and all this got in the way! There was lots of milling and making special elbows etc. If I built things in correct order and left them attached to the loco it would help a great deal but I'm in the habit of putting off anything that looks difficult or annoying to make des
  4. I soldered threaded sleeves onto the castings. Then made the curved angles for the cab sides and soldered them on.They're quite difficult to make out - they're 3 x 3 x 0.5 mm angle, milled from 3mm plate. It was not easy. A threaded bush pressed into a cylinder where the drain thread was too loose. I used an undersize tapping drill and tried not to screw the tap in too far, then turned the outside down to a be press-fit in the cylinder casting where I'd used a 6mm endmill to open out the hole the no-good thread was in. I also found the o-ring r
  5. The dummy leaf springs are done and I think that's the last of the major jobs under the running boards. I still need to make the operating arm for the lubricator which requires a couple of one-way clutches but the rest of it was made last year. Now I'm working on adding threaded sleeves to these dummy clack valve castings. These were case from a 3D model created directly over a scan of the works drawing and tweaked where necessary. I may shorten the leg on the left and increase the angle because I can't screw then right down onto the boiler bu
  6. The smokebox door and dart are done now, that's been a long time coming. The blank that came out when the smokebox rear plate was cut was heated red-hot and banged over a thick walled pipe to put a dent in it. Then a 25mm mandrel was silver soldered to it. Truing up the diameter and eating away at the inside with this setup. Did this freehand with a normal RH knife tool. No-one really knows what the profile of the door was. A flap disc in an angle grinder and some emery paper get to this point. There is a hu
  7. A lot of great work there Pete! Glad I'm building a 2 cylinder slide valve engine
  8. I put some JB weld on the smokebox cladding to smooth out the join. Then onto the superheater. And the snifter valve and blower pipes. The snifter valve is poking through the smokebox floor and feeds into the wet side of the superheater to try and keep it cool. The blower is fed through a hollow stay from a valve back in the cab. There is a hollow ring around the blastpipe with a few small holes in it to let the steam shoot up the chimney. The sharp bend in the snifter valve pipe was a problem - I cut a wed
  9. Thanks tigerburnie! I do all the soldering to gal steel outside. I don't want to use bakers fluid in my workshop, and I don't want the gal fumes poisoning me either.
  10. The main steam valve has been soldered together. The parts were made a couple of years ago, before the boiler was built. It wasn't all plain sailing - I had to redo almost ever solder joint and remake the front bush after it melted after an unsoldering operation. Not sure why it went so wrong - silver soldering copper and bronze isn't that difficult! The the reachrod was finally made and attached given I could figure out where the reversing screw had to go. It ended up about 3mm futher out than the design calls for due to the boiler being too wide.
  11. We also had a 26 class which is basically the same as this, but as a saddle tank with a radial axle added at the rear to make it a 2-6-2. Someone brought one of them to the club and the wheels and motion looked familiar. That was made by Dubs too so no surprise they share a common design. I think the 24/25/Gallpoing Gertie are quite handsome, while not being too big. I never thought much about moguls before I built one but now I'm a fan.
  12. Thanks Garry. It is a close relative. We called this a 24 class and the Galloping Gerties were the 25 class. There's not much between them, that's for sure. I did a double-take when I first got the MSWJR loco book, looking through it and thought, "that's what I'm building!"
  13. In order to figure out how far out towards the edge of the cab the reversing screw has to go I needed to get all the cladding done. So that's what I've been doing since that last post. 4 months of it. Worst part of building the loco I'd say, other than maybe the boiler because at least this is a lot cheaper to scrap if you make a mistake. Still lots of details and handrails and who knows what else but the sheet metalwork is about done. It has not been easy and I'm quite relieved to have got this far. The bands are 4.75mm x 0.4mm brass and the cladding material is 0.7mm galvanised s
  14. Excellent! It sounds good.
  15. The boiler really is lovely and the loco looks excellent with the cab, boiler, cylinders, etc. Beautiful work.
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