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  1. Many thanks for the heads up! Bill did an excellent job constructing the kit, and I will now fit the wheelsets (Masokits P4 units) and paint it. Much appreciated.
  2. Assistance, please. I have acquired various models form a deceased estate, and this includes the enclosed horsebox, for which there are no instructions or any means of identification. Can anyone supply details of the vehicle in question, and the model manufacturer, please?
  3. I find a miniature chisel with the point ground to a narrow angle convenient for removing etches-a very quick. An Olfa P450 carpet cutter is ideal for easing folding joints.
  4. Superb as usual. For very small holes that need t be opened out, jeweller's broaches are indispensable.
  5. Reading of the use of fire irons, I believe that The Great Bear's cab roof was cut back as someone managed to jam an iron between the he roof and firebox. First class weathering on the Panniers, by the way.
  6. Regarding RSUs I find that the crucial factor is selecting the correct solder paint. I use Carr's 188 paint with a London Road RSU.
  7. Thanks for the information. What effect does it have on plastic-ie Is it detrimental when blackening brass/NS components fixed to plastic?
  8. The pipework looks fine Doug-don't forget that it was continually being stripped, bent, relaid and otherwise badly treated in service.
  9. I think the Brassmasters Easychas and detailing kit would be a good starting point for the Hornby A4
  10. The images of carriage roofs allegedly showing ribs look very much like welded joint rusting to me.
  11. They were used on the Isle of Axholme, so getting closer to LB.
  12. I have built a Raven Pacific chassis, and used Hornby "Steamroller" (No Flange) wheels for the sprung pony truck, as the wheelbase is so long. After reading the posts regarding bogies, I have decided to modify the bogie by moving the bogie pin towards the rear. Will see how this performs. I read that the grinding noise of the bogie wheels on the frame when running into Newcastle Central was a feature of these engines.
  13. Additionally, a decent pair Jeweller's tinsnips are ideal for the brass and N/S work that modellers do, plus a modeller's notching press is useful if you are doing lots of straight metal cutting-these avoid distortion.
  14. I have enjoyed following this thread. Reminds me of calibrating a Jidenco Claughton. I assumed the designer started by doodling in a puddle of beer.
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