[Wright writes.....]

1 hour ago, polybear said:

Can anyone tell me if Birchwood Casey Super Blue will actually work on a brass chassis please - the bottle suggests it's intended for steel.  Thanks

Hello Brian,

 

I have used this on Brass. Just make sure it is perfectly clean first.

[Wright writes.....]

5 hours ago, Iain.d said:

Continuing on the door hinges topic of a page or two back.  Below is how Roxey do theirs, I’m guessing similar to MJT from commentaries that have been made, although I’ve never done a MJT kit / sides. A small tab is bent over, passed through an etched hole and soldered from the back.

 

 

Middle and upper hinges are represented by etched recesses. Door frames, unlike most etched sides I’ve experienced, are raised etch lines. I think they are very effective.

 

 

This is a Roxey LBSCR Brake Third I’ve just started; door vents and droplights next.

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

Hi Iain, I'm not sure what livery you will be painting these rather nice looking coaches, but if it involves panel lining, you may find it easier to leave the door vents off until after painting and lining, as they can get in the way of the bow pen.

 

Regards,

Geoff

 

[Wright writes.....]

1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

Good evening Lloyd,

 

There's constant local talk about Tallington crossing being replaced by a bridge, though with the road being downgraded from the A16 it once was to something less important it probably won't happen (a new A16 was built much further south). 

 

I think the record for waiting at the closed barriers is over 30 minutes, the four track line being so busy, and other crossings being in the vicinity. 

 

I always found it exciting as a youthful 'spotter having to stop at (at the time, gated) level crossings, though whether my dad thought the same is doubtful. Memories of copping an A1, an A3 and an A4 at Riccall many years ago are forever, as was the copping of BOOK LAW at Lincoln Road crossing well over 60 years ago. There's no railway at Riccall any more (the Selby diversion caused that) and Lincoln Road crossing has long been replaced by a bridge.  

 

There are still one or two gated crossings in this part of the world, but for how much longer? We even have one pushed by hand between Stamford and Maxey! 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

There is also a manual crossing on the ECML on the road between Etton and Marholm. It is very often a long wait though.

 

[Wright writes.....]

11 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

I don't know how many have noticed, but Wright writes is a decade old today! 2744 pages in ten years! Perhaps someone good at 'hard sums' might like to break that down into how many pages a month, etc.......... Thanks in anticipation. 

 

Has there been a more-active thread on the site over that time, I wonder? Don't forget, it's down to you, the readers and posters, who've made it so popular.

 

I've found the whole thing completely fascinating. Who'd have thought that I'd be indulging in social media? It's been lively, argumentative, rancorous (at times), thought-provoking, friendly, educational, but, above all else in my view, enlightening. May I please thank all those who've made it so enthralling? 

 

Speaking of thanks, most must go to Andy York who set the whole thing up in 2012. At the time I was in the grip of 'The Black Dog', and, by his setting up of WW, I was able to keep in touch with the hobby (he even posted on my behalf to begin with). It was a Godsend.

 

Anyway, here's to the next ten years.........

22.86 pages per month, or 39.2 pages per week

[Wright writes.....]

23 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

It could be Phil.

 

I'll ask Geoff.

 

Nice to see you on here again.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

It is a D1719 semi open first. It is pre Stanier. The coach was built and painted by Brian Flanagan, then passed to me for lining, and then passed back to Brian for varnishing and finishing. Brian has made an excellent job of this, and in particular, the interior, with tables laid ready for dinner.

[Wright writes.....]

4 hours ago, GWR8700 said:

Can I asķ what kit makes those L&Y locos are?

I presume the top 2 are Craftsman but I can't figure out the bottom 2.  Excellent work!

You are correct, the 0-6-0s are Craftsman, and the 4-4-0 is London Road Models. This is the only kit still available. They were all built by John James.

[Wright writes.....]

2 hours ago, GWR8700 said:

Can I asķ what kit makes those L&Y locos are?

I presume the top 2 are Craftsman but I can't figure out the bottom 2.  Excellent work!

I am not sure what kits the 4-4-0 and the 0-6-0s originate from, I will ask the owners and let you know. I delivered all four this morning down to the south coast.

 

[Wright writes.....]

12 hours ago, Jesse Sim said:

Morning Tony,

 

I actually hadn’t changed the CV’s at the time the video was taken. I checked her on DC first and she ran fine, changed the number of the chip, as it was still 2400 (the other A2) and then let run in on the rolling road on DCC for half an hour each way and then off she went round the layout for about an hour. 
 

I use DCC but I haven’t a clue how to do anything with CVS or anything technological. I’m 26 but I am the least tech savvy person. I actually phoned @St Enodoc last night and he talked me through changing CVS which was a great help. I’ve now got an idea and will probably sit down and muck around with some locos. 
 

Some lamps are on order from LMS, I’ve order quite a few so hopefully all my locos will finally have lamps!!!!! 
 

Now I’m unsure if to weather her or not…. with only a year left of running on the LNER surely she would have been a bit dirty…. 
 

Thanks again Tony! 

Hi Jesse,

 

Glad you are happy with the loco. From memory, I think I gave it a very light blow over with a toning weathering mix (similar to the mix I put on the other A2, but a much lighter blow over), but as you know it is far easier to add more than take it back off! However, it seems quite a long time ago now, or should I say a lot of paint has flowed through the airbrush since then!

[Wright writes.....]

4 hours ago, Northmoor said:

Hold my beer, someone.....

 

Not racing cars, but this is usually the month of the Isle of Man TT, one of the last great un-sanitised motor sport events in the world.  The weather at the moment would have been ideal for some even more bonkers lap times than previously.  Can you imagine driving from London to Preston in about an hour and forty minutes, using only the B-roads?

 

Rob

Been there, done that. (Racing on the Isle of Man, not driving to Preston)

[Wright writes.....]

9 hours ago, Jesse Sim said:

Following on from my post about the B5 here she is after a bit of weathering. 
 

I also took the opportunity to finish of the GN milk brake and re number a C1 appropriate for the milk train, as well as giving her a nice hard working look through weathering. 
 

Sorry for hi jacking your thread Tony. 
 

Can I ask a question also?

 

What’s a good colour or mix of colours to weather the rods and wheels?

 

 

For the rods, try a mix of Humbrol Metalcote Polished Steel, and no 9 Gloss Tan. Brush it on, then at least 24 hours later, polish it up with a cotton bud. It really brings it to life. For wheels, I tend to give a light spray over with a similar mix of what I have used on the body, specifically a mid brown and matt black, mixed 1:2, and plenty of thinners.

 

 

[Wright writes.....]

9 hours ago, drmditch said:

 

A very hesitant suggestion, but assuming it is somewhere on the GE main line, would the locomotive shadow suggest it is travelling in the down (E or NE) direction?
 

I would confirm this is in the down direction, and I also agree with the area being between Romford and Gidea Park. The fast lines are on the south side after the flyover between Manor Park and Ilford take the slow lines from the south side to the north. Also, after Romford, there is quite a long straight run.

 

[Wright writes.....]

20 hours ago, Clearwater said:

Tony and other experienced builders,

 

A couple of quick questions if I may about a Comet coach kit that I’m torturing my fingers with.  Firstly, having fixed the drop lights, solder has leaked through to the visible side.  Should I remove this before painting?  If so, what’s the best method.  Secondly, the Comet guide to coach building describes removing the “rebate”on the roof at each corner.  What do they mean by that?  Is it the bottom bit of the rail that will ultimately sit on the top of the sides?  

The sides and ends seem straight enough to me and it’s solid enough.  Nothing has fallen off when I’ve washed it although I’m sure my soldering can improve.

 

I also seem to recall a debate about how to fix roofs.  Comet suggest glueing.  Is there a better plan for aluminium?

 

Many thanks

 

David

 

Hi David,

 

I could not see if you had received a reply on this yet, so I thought I would offer my view points:

 

I would  suggest removing the solder that has crept through before painting, otherwise it will result in a lumpy finish. I use a scraper, especially for this process, and this gets into the corners nicely.

 

I would suggest the instructions are referring to the part of the roof below the gutter that locates inside the coach body, in each corner. You only need to remove about 1mm on each corner, and it just helps to clear any solder obstructions in the corner joints of the body.

 

If you want the roof permanently fixed, which would add to the strength of the body assembly, then glue is the only option. I would probably use rapid araldite. However, my preference is to make the roof bolt on, but this is more work, and requires additional tools and materials. 

 

I attach a photo of my cleaning tools (one of Tony's photos taken for the book). The scraper is on the left. I think I got this from Eileen's Emporium.

 

 

 

[Wright writes.....]

It has been very interesting reading the various comments started by Tony talking about when the hobby becomes the day job. I have been full time at this for five years now, and like Tony, I came from the classroom. 

 

I started with a view to providing a complete service, ie building, painting and lining, but I have reached the stage where the lead time for a build is longer than I would like, so I am now receiving more painting and lining jobs. A number of the clients for whom I build often give me another kit or two, each time I pass them a completed project. Whilst I therefore have a rather full work load, I do enjoy the way of life. I can start as early as I like, without the need to travel to and from a place of work, or I can go for a cycle ride first. I also like to bake, so occasionally I will get something in the oven between tasks in the workshop. There are some very  entertaining  programmes to listen to on BBC sounds, and I get through a number of jazz programmes during the week. It has to be music whilst spraying, but it can be a drama or a comedy whilst lining or building. I also quite often have the phone on hands free. When friends or clients call, they are generally concerned about taking up time and stopping me from working. Unless I am spraying, for the most part, it is easy to chat whilst working.

 

Handing over the finished models is normally a very rewarding part of the process, which I try to do face to face, as I like to see the client's reaction. I am fortunate to have a number of clients, and they are virtually all very patient. I will not rush something, and will redo something until I am happy with it.

 

One thing that caused me stress whilst teaching was not getting enough time to do some modelling. By making it the day job, that issue was instantly solved! It is fair to say that I have a number of my own kits that are partly built, or yet to be started, and will not be touched in the immediate future, but I am happy working on other peoples projects. As such, I have encountered a variety of liveries and models that I would not otherwise have encountered.

[Wright writes.....]

3 hours ago, grob1234 said:

Not the best picture perhaps, but at least I'm able to practise some off-set lining using my bow-compasses:

 

 

Without doubt the hardest bit is the cab front. I'm tackling that with a brush...

Nice job Tom. You should be able to get much of the way round the cab front with the bow pen, leaving just the end parts to do with the brush.

[Wright writes.....]

16 hours ago, Atso said:

 

Thanks Geoff. There really are a lot of lines for LNER green livery, but not as many as for some of the pre grouping liveries! The red lining needs a little tidying up in places - it's actually Humbrol 20 and not red at all. I've also just noticed that the front frame of 3286 isn't lined so I'll have to correct that tomorrow... Your current batch of commission looks to be coming along nicely.

 

I'm intrigued, just what noises are you inflicting on these folk???

At one stage I was borrowing a CD from my brother to see if I could get into it. It did rather sound like a record that had got stuck. I will have to ask what it actually was.

 

[Wright writes.....]

Towards the end of last week, I decided I needed to give the smoke deflectors on the two pacifics a rub down and another coat of black. The finish on these need to be just right. A simple masking job with a piece of paper behind each one, and a little tape at the bottom. 

 

Today, I put the cream lines on the B16/3 and the K1. This will need a few days to dry before I can put the grey line next to it, but the red can go on at any point now. However, I will put the red lines on the C2 next.

 

I had some particularly good Jazz on iplayer whilst I was doing this. So good that it was at times difficult to keep still enough to get the job done, but I did manage it in the end.

 

The first time that Tony came over to take the photographs for my book, something felt like it was missing. Whilst we were talking here and there, whilst I was spraying or lining, it was almost silent, with Tony moving around behind and positioning the camera. However, I need something in the background whilst working, so next time Tony came, I had to inflict some of my music preferences on Tony. For the most part, I kept it light, and Tony didn't mind.

[Wright writes.....]

22 hours ago, Atso said:

Good evening Tony,

 

I can only echo Mike's comments about using a razor saw, files and sanding sticks on 3D printed models. Using cutters tends to put additional stresses on the resin parts, especially when the cutters 'clip' together which often causes breakages. I do find that the material thickness also plays a part and tend to keep things a little thicker and use various ploys to disguise these.

 

My C1s are progressing with the first side of lining on the tenders now complete.

 

 

Both the new locos now have their identities and are awaiting final detailing.

 

 

 

 

Very impressive work Steve, the red line below the footplate shows out nicely. There are a lot of lines in this livery, aren't there.

[Wright writes.....]

13 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Looking good Geoff,

 

Two for me and two for others..........

 

In the last seven months I've built about 20 locos, many of which you'll paint, or will be painting. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Thank you Tony, I will check my paint supplies and sharpen the bow pen...

 

[Wright writes.....]

21 hours ago, Atso said:

 

Lovely stuff there! Interesting to read that your order of painting is the complete reverse of how I tackle locos. The first colour that I apply is the red buffer beams and then mask these off for the green and finally the black. That said, I always leave fitting buffers, couling hooks and vac pipes until after I've done the painting and lining, but guess that might not be as practical in 4mm scale.

My last airbrushing session was this Sam Fay.



The C1s haven't been forgotten either (still got some boiler bands to add though!).



Looking forward to seeing the next stage on your current batch.

 

I am quite pleased, as I have just worked out how to reply to a post!

 

I painted the buffer beams on the four black engines today, as I was getting tired of all the masking. I will paint the buffer beams on the pacifics when I start on the 7mm Jubilee that is next in line. I have plenty of lining to do in the mean time on these.

 

I was interested by your comment Atso (Steven?) about the order of colours. If I was working only in enamels, I would have started with the buffer beams, as this is the smallest area to mask, then worked up in size order in terms of the next area to mask. However, I am governed by the fact that I am working with cellulose paints for the main colours, and these must be applied before enamels.

 

After the painting, I reverted to a 7mm scale 8F, which incorporates Hobby Holidays' ball bearing hornblocks. Today it had its first run, and I was impressed with the difference these bearings made.

[Wright writes.....]

Someone requested an update on the painting of the six locos I primed just over a week ago. They have all had the black applied, over the course of a couple of spraying sessions, and today the two pacifics were painted green. Next will be the buffer beams, possibly over two sessions due to all the masking, then I can start on the lining.

[Wright writes.....]

A busy morning today, priming six locos, all built by Tony. I think that is the most I have done in one go, and as many as I can fit in the drying propagators.