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  • Location
    Coulsdon, Surrey
  • Interests
    My Workbench topic http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/135510-coulsdon-works/
    My Layout topic https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/149386-gresley-junction/

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  1. I’m a cheapskate so £300 is well north of what I’d expect to pay. I have this Holife soldering station - £36 from Amazon! https://www.amazon.co.uk/Holife-Professional-Adjustable-Temperature-Replaceable/dp/B07F3G44YJ/ref=sr_1_6?crid=53JHHBHXOVYM&dchild=1&keywords=holife+soldering+iron+station&qid=1603135147&sprefix=Holife+s%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-6 I bought it in March when I dropped my old soldering station and it broke. It’s had a lot if use during lockdown and is still performing well. I have to turn the temperature up higher than on my old (£100) station but otherwise
  2. New RTR can be a good incentive. I’ve had a Graeme King A2/3 conversion kit waiting for me to get round to it for almost 4 years. But Hornby’s announcement forced me to get it out and do the conversion. Here she is. She still needs light weathering (despite being from New England I’m basing her on a couple of photos from mid 1958 when she looked clean), lamps and cylinder drain cocks but is otherwise complete. I took her down to my club last week and told the crowd that I’d got a pre production example from Hornby. They believed me for a while but then I ‘fessed u
  3. The steel D.190 CK is now ready for painting as and when the weather permits. Thanks to those who helped with how to make the body separable at the sole bar - that worked well. A pretty little vehicle I think. This will complete my steel quintuple set and it’s first role will be to form part of the 1700 KX to Peterborough on 16th September 1953 when that service was hauled by the pair of Ivatt Atlantics as a test before the Plant Centenarian railtour. There is a picture of this train on p86 of ‘East Coast from Kings Cross’ by a Eric Neve and the D.190 is clearly
  4. Thanks Tony, For me this is strictly a hobby and one of the things I like about it most is building the trains, so my standards are set by what I can reasonably achieve given my level of skill and (lack of) patience. I think I’m slowly improving but my standards are unlikely to ever reach museum quality! As for your painting, I think it meets all the tests I would set. When ‘playing trains’ on Little Bytham it was not apparent to me which locos were painted by you and which were done professionally. I would probably have been able to tell if I examined them really close
  5. Tony, I have no doubt that professional painting is a rare skill but I’m increasingly finding that it’s the part of the model build which I enjoy the most. I’ve recently plucked up the courage to try teak and with some guidance from some of the usual suspects on here I’m getting to a stage where I’m pleased with the end result. Here is my latest effort - an Isinglass Milk Brake (apologies to those who’ve already seen it on Coulsdon works). I can feel a few more teak coaches coming on! Andy
  6. Tony, To my relatively untrained eye they all look very good, so the cheaper ones look like good value to me. I think the equation changes for you as a professional. Your time is money and if a basket case takes longer than building the original kit then clearly that costs money. In my case, I enjoy playing with old kits and getting them running. Unless it’s something I really want or it’s come from a good source (I.e. via you) I never pay more than £100 and generally nearer the £50 mark. This GWR engines I mentioned earlier cost me £160 for 7 of them (last year)
  7. Tony, As a loco doctor, I’m sure you’re right in that statement. However, in my experience of rescuing kits from eBay and toy fairs (remember them!) the problems are far more often (in this rough order): Pick ups - probably more than all the other faults put together; Short circuits Binding coupling rods; A badly put together chassis (the one I struggle to sort out); Valve gear; A dislodged wire (easy one!); Dodgy wheels (i.e. not Romfords); The only times a motor has been the issue was a couple of GWR locos which I spotted had Port
  8. The Milk Brake is just about finished. I’m pretty pleased with the way the teak has come out now. The varnish and light weathering has toned it down so it’s less in your face. I think the end issue has diminished considerably after painting and it certainly doesn’t worry me. I’m sure some purists will disagree! I’ve finished it in LNER livery to represent either late ‘40s or late ‘30s as I think it looks so pretty in this state. I can feel some 6 wheel milk tankers coming on! The one issue I’m still considering is the roof lights (if that’s what the strange rec
  9. Now I see why you asked the question on Coulsdon Works! I look forward to following this build and might even get mine out of the roundtuit pile and give chase! One of Gresley’s most elegant designs IMHO.
  10. I think if you’re building professionally and buying a large amount they give you a discount - I managed to get 20% off on one occasion. Otherwise the multipacks are just for saving the environment and their packing boredom.
  11. Thanks Mick, those NYMR coaches are beautiful. The top one shows how much muck gathers at the edge of the panels even on a pampered preserved coach. I had seen the Steve Banks photos and I agree they do look orange. I just wanted some reassurance as the people at my club all thought my Milk Brake was too orange - what do they know! Andy
  12. Thanks Jonathan, I used an all over coat of precision paints teak basecoat. Once that had dried I picked out individual panels in darker colours - Humbrol , 9, 62, 70, 186 sometimes with a tiny bit of 10 mixed in. This produced a measly effect as shown below. Then finally an all over thin wash of Precision paints ‘weathered teak’. Are you saying that the framing/ beading should all be a uniform colour? Andy
  13. Some progress with the Milk Brake over the last couple of days. I emailed Andy Edgson about how the bogies were supposed to attach and I’d got it completely wrong! He offered me new parts to try again which was decent of him but I decided to adopt a Headstock/ MJT combo system as shown. I’ve suggested he does one of his Facebook videos on fitting bogies to the floorpan. With this approach the bogie - body gap is about right and as low as I dare from a running POV. Overall, the ride height has come down to within 1mm of correct which I’ll live with. I have s
  14. I think there’s a ‘law’ for that but I won’t repeat it here! Thanks everyone for the help. Andy
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