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Frappington Jct

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  • Location
    Sometimes London, sometimes Newport, head always in a book
  • Interests
    Modelling the ex-LNER in 00. My current layout is here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/111212-filton-street-goods/

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  1. Apologies for taking so long to reply - I saw the replies, didn't have time to respond and then totally forgot. My apologies - I'm not a GWR expert so read 'Churchward' and just assumed. That does make a lot more sense, I did wander why the GWR would have produced a loco in that style. Many thanks! That's a really interesting article - I really like the idea but I'm not sure I have the confidence in my abilities to be that radical on a fairly expensive rtr model! I might experiment with the method of bulking the tanks out on a cheaper model fo
  2. As seems to happen rather often, I've gotten rather side-tracked from what I was doing... The 2MT has acquired some paint on the tender and had all its decals removed, and is now waiting for transfers (and a tender drawbar assembly). I really hate doing lining however, so I'm now in the 'putting it off for a while stage.' In the mean time, I've taken advantage of the very low prices of Kernow's GWR 1361s to undertake a project I've had in my mind for a while. For ages, I always assumed that the 1361s were locos from a private builder which the GWR had absorbed at the grouping or so
  3. Thanks! There's not a lot more than that to be honest! Aside from the tool boxes (I think originally used mostly just because I had them, but they do also serve to hide the motor clips) and the bunker, it's got bars over the rear cab windows and a proper cab floor, as well as the frame extensions on the chassis. The rest is as is, just with a new paint job.
  4. The Hornby 'Toby' chassis (suitably re-motored and extended with cosmetic frame extensions) looks quite good, though I have to admit mine sits a little too high (and I think a tiny bit of glue got into the gears, making it a slightly rough runner, but hey ho)
  5. An oddball of a project now. A little while ago, I bought an old Hornby 2mt off eBay, which had been upgraded with new separately fitted details, an extended tender etc. It also had new wheels and a replacement worm gear, though no motor. The plan was to simply fit a motor and complete the paintwork etc. and, hey presto, a decent 2mt for circa £30. The loco as it arrived (not the best photo sorry): However, once I started to try and reassemble the valve gear, I found that the new scale wheels really don't interact well with the old Hornby valve gear - I think th
  6. Hi all, I recently bought a half finished Hornby Ivatt 2mt upgrade project off Ebay which has been fitted with Gibson wheels but still came with the original valve gear/connecting rods etc. Annoyingly, the plugs (I don't know what else to call them, sorry!) on the outer ends of the connecting rods don't stay in the holes on the wheels when the chassis is motion - is there a good way to stop this from happening or would it be better to just buy new coupling rods from Gibson? I've included a picture below to illustrate. Sorry if this is a silly question - I'm slowly building my way u
  7. Extracted Filton Street from its shelf to try and replicate the original photo of Green Goddess with my model - I'm rather limited by the layout itself both in terms of the background and the possible angles, but the flavour is there! Also, I hope you will indulge me a quick shot through the layout with 'Hurricane in the distance.
  8. It's been a while since I've updated here, but work has slowly continued to complete 'Hurricane' and her accompanying Rectank. All the lining was completed about a month or so ago - it's one of those jobs I find really rather tedious and thus I tend to procrastinate rather when it needs doing! Thoughts then turned to how to mount the loco onto the wagon, and how best to replicate the original picture: For a while I was considering ditching the buffer stops in place of sleepers chained onto the tracks, or ditching the track altogether and simply 'chaining' the loco on
  9. Hi all, I'm starting to plan a rebuild of a rather wonky K2 model I built a couple of years ago and am hoping the hive mind might be able to help me with some information regarding cab styles. I know that the original K1s had a rather square cab (like this), but did they keep these when rebuilt as K2s or did they receive the more curvaceous style fitted to the new-build K2s (like this)? If they did keep the squarer cabs at rebuilding, how long were they retained? Did they get rebuilt again, presumably to increase route availability post-grouping? Essentially, what I suppose I'm ask
  10. I've now completed the lining out of one side of 'Hurricane', and the LNER style lining was definitely the right idea - the black is more obvious in real life. I've based the lining off this photo of No. 8 in 1950 so haven't put anything on the tender/cab cut-out (or what ever you would call it), but then again for the sake of ease I've built it in the slightly later style so might decide to line it as such. We'll see. I do also need to think about what to do about the works plate, as if the lining has highlighted anything it's the large space on the cab side that could do with filling.
  11. I managed to find a pot of Humbrol Decalfix in a draw and it's solved my adhesion issues. I've been quite busy this week so thus far I've only applied the black boiler bands. I've been grappling with the black and white lining and would appreciate a second opinion in terms of how it looks. I applied a single corner onto the cab and can't decide whether the lining is too thick or not - part of me isn't that keen but looking at BernardTPM's photos I don't think it's too far off? The perils of using items from multiple scales on one build!
  12. Thanks! I think the best thing to say is that I'm going to *attempt* the lining! I'm having problems getting the Fox lining transfers to stick at the moment so we'll have to see - I'm debating what way to go with the tender lining as I can't find a black and white composite waterslide transfer, but equally I don't know if I'd notice if it was just white
  13. No.8 is nearly done! All physical additions are now complete (apologies for some of the poor picture quality below) and the whole loco has had it's initial paint job - just needs transfers now to complete. The new physical additions are as follows: front end steam chest (or 3rd cylinder box, I'm not sure what it is!), under-tender air tank (or at least again that's what I think it is!), right-side battery box, smoke deflectors permanently attached and nameplates (so small I could get away with just printing on standard paper and it looks pretty decent!). Just need to get transfers
  14. I've had a productive evening! The bogie height has been reduced, a handbrake handle made & installed on the footplate, the loco buffers and vacuum cable have been fitted and everything primed (albeit a very thin coat on one side as the can started to run out.) The loco buffers are a little wonky as I had to modify a set of brass N-gauge auto-coach buffers to get the length right (they were the only ones available with the correct sized oval buffer heads), but from normal viewing distance it isn't really noticeable. I've also made a pair of smoke-deflectors for the loco out of thin plastik
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