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Frappington Jct

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Everything posted by Frappington Jct

  1. Apologies for taking so long to reply - I saw the replies, didn't have time to respond and then totally forgot. My apologies - I'm not a GWR expert so read 'Churchward' and just assumed. That does make a lot more sense, I did wander why the GWR would have produced a loco in that style. Many thanks! That's a really interesting article - I really like the idea but I'm not sure I have the confidence in my abilities to be that radical on a fairly expensive rtr model! I might experiment with the method of bulking the tanks out on a cheaper model fo
  2. As seems to happen rather often, I've gotten rather side-tracked from what I was doing... The 2MT has acquired some paint on the tender and had all its decals removed, and is now waiting for transfers (and a tender drawbar assembly). I really hate doing lining however, so I'm now in the 'putting it off for a while stage.' In the mean time, I've taken advantage of the very low prices of Kernow's GWR 1361s to undertake a project I've had in my mind for a while. For ages, I always assumed that the 1361s were locos from a private builder which the GWR had absorbed at the grouping or so
  3. Thanks! There's not a lot more than that to be honest! Aside from the tool boxes (I think originally used mostly just because I had them, but they do also serve to hide the motor clips) and the bunker, it's got bars over the rear cab windows and a proper cab floor, as well as the frame extensions on the chassis. The rest is as is, just with a new paint job.
  4. The Hornby 'Toby' chassis (suitably re-motored and extended with cosmetic frame extensions) looks quite good, though I have to admit mine sits a little too high (and I think a tiny bit of glue got into the gears, making it a slightly rough runner, but hey ho)
  5. An oddball of a project now. A little while ago, I bought an old Hornby 2mt off eBay, which had been upgraded with new separately fitted details, an extended tender etc. It also had new wheels and a replacement worm gear, though no motor. The plan was to simply fit a motor and complete the paintwork etc. and, hey presto, a decent 2mt for circa £30. The loco as it arrived (not the best photo sorry): However, once I started to try and reassemble the valve gear, I found that the new scale wheels really don't interact well with the old Hornby valve gear - I think th
  6. Hi all, I recently bought a half finished Hornby Ivatt 2mt upgrade project off Ebay which has been fitted with Gibson wheels but still came with the original valve gear/connecting rods etc. Annoyingly, the plugs (I don't know what else to call them, sorry!) on the outer ends of the connecting rods don't stay in the holes on the wheels when the chassis is motion - is there a good way to stop this from happening or would it be better to just buy new coupling rods from Gibson? I've included a picture below to illustrate. Sorry if this is a silly question - I'm slowly building my way u
  7. Extracted Filton Street from its shelf to try and replicate the original photo of Green Goddess with my model - I'm rather limited by the layout itself both in terms of the background and the possible angles, but the flavour is there! Also, I hope you will indulge me a quick shot through the layout with 'Hurricane in the distance.
  8. It's been a while since I've updated here, but work has slowly continued to complete 'Hurricane' and her accompanying Rectank. All the lining was completed about a month or so ago - it's one of those jobs I find really rather tedious and thus I tend to procrastinate rather when it needs doing! Thoughts then turned to how to mount the loco onto the wagon, and how best to replicate the original picture: For a while I was considering ditching the buffer stops in place of sleepers chained onto the tracks, or ditching the track altogether and simply 'chaining' the loco on
  9. Hi all, I'm starting to plan a rebuild of a rather wonky K2 model I built a couple of years ago and am hoping the hive mind might be able to help me with some information regarding cab styles. I know that the original K1s had a rather square cab (like this), but did they keep these when rebuilt as K2s or did they receive the more curvaceous style fitted to the new-build K2s (like this)? If they did keep the squarer cabs at rebuilding, how long were they retained? Did they get rebuilt again, presumably to increase route availability post-grouping? Essentially, what I suppose I'm ask
  10. I've now completed the lining out of one side of 'Hurricane', and the LNER style lining was definitely the right idea - the black is more obvious in real life. I've based the lining off this photo of No. 8 in 1950 so haven't put anything on the tender/cab cut-out (or what ever you would call it), but then again for the sake of ease I've built it in the slightly later style so might decide to line it as such. We'll see. I do also need to think about what to do about the works plate, as if the lining has highlighted anything it's the large space on the cab side that could do with filling.
  11. I managed to find a pot of Humbrol Decalfix in a draw and it's solved my adhesion issues. I've been quite busy this week so thus far I've only applied the black boiler bands. I've been grappling with the black and white lining and would appreciate a second opinion in terms of how it looks. I applied a single corner onto the cab and can't decide whether the lining is too thick or not - part of me isn't that keen but looking at BernardTPM's photos I don't think it's too far off? The perils of using items from multiple scales on one build!
  12. Thanks! I think the best thing to say is that I'm going to *attempt* the lining! I'm having problems getting the Fox lining transfers to stick at the moment so we'll have to see - I'm debating what way to go with the tender lining as I can't find a black and white composite waterslide transfer, but equally I don't know if I'd notice if it was just white
  13. No.8 is nearly done! All physical additions are now complete (apologies for some of the poor picture quality below) and the whole loco has had it's initial paint job - just needs transfers now to complete. The new physical additions are as follows: front end steam chest (or 3rd cylinder box, I'm not sure what it is!), under-tender air tank (or at least again that's what I think it is!), right-side battery box, smoke deflectors permanently attached and nameplates (so small I could get away with just printing on standard paper and it looks pretty decent!). Just need to get transfers
  14. I've had a productive evening! The bogie height has been reduced, a handbrake handle made & installed on the footplate, the loco buffers and vacuum cable have been fitted and everything primed (albeit a very thin coat on one side as the can started to run out.) The loco buffers are a little wonky as I had to modify a set of brass N-gauge auto-coach buffers to get the length right (they were the only ones available with the correct sized oval buffer heads), but from normal viewing distance it isn't really noticeable. I've also made a pair of smoke-deflectors for the loco out of thin plastik
  15. I decided I didn't like mk1 tender, it was too wide and whilst I was pretty happy with it in all other senses I knew the width would irritate me. So, I rebuilt it slightly narrower and I'm much much happier - turns out not only was the width wrong but the dangers of using a mix of different period photos shown. I found a couple of photos from the 1950s which clearly show more space on the tender for the crew, no tool chests (or whatever they were) between the crew and the bunker, and the cowling didn't travel as far forward on the tender. These have all been incorporated onto the tender, along
  16. Back to Hurricane. I've finished the superstructure of the tender, based on photos, guesswork and the CAD of a 1:48 3D print available on Shapeways (which, incidentally I'm considering buying in the future to make an operational 1:48 scale RH&DR layout). It's not 100% accurate as ever, but I think it looks OK. It's currently resting on the cut-up chassis from the original Flying Scotsman tender chassis to replicate the bogies. These will be glued down when I make a final decision as to whether I'm happy with it! That'll then be followed by the filler cap, faux-gangway, faux look out window
  17. Hi all, I'm looking for a single tender wheelset for a split chassis Bachmann Royal Scot/Patriot/Jubilee (I'm led to believe they used the same tender tooling) to replace a broken set on a model damaged during shipping from Ebay. I've tried using an Alan Gibson set, but it appears the pin-points on the axles are too long and I'm not overly confident modifying the axles or indeed the chassis. I've included a picture below just to clarify the type I mean. Thanks in advance
  18. I was considering it, but the size of the Hornby 0-4-0 chassis wheelbase means that the cog would have to be absolutely huge, plus there's a couple of protrusions on the chassis which would get in the way. In my head it's chain driven off the cog in the housing on the right-hand footplate - there's sort of a historical precedent as Aveling did make some chain driven locos. It's something I'd absolutely look to do if I had a smaller chassis on which to base the model, as it would be much more feasible.
  19. Haha, to be fair, the paint scheme is based on the preserved 'Blue Circle', which in turn is the basis for Fergus so I suppose you are correct
  20. Inspired once again by someone else on this thread from a while back, here's my most recent creation: 'Aion', a traction engine shunter based on a re-motored Hornby 0-4-0 chassis, Caley Pug running plate and a Keil Kraft traction engine kit. It's a bit of a beast but I rather like it really - suits my love of the weird and wonderful!
  21. I've gotten a little distracted recently... Again... No. 8 is still waiting for me to finish the tender, but in the mean time I have finally got round to building the freelance traction engine shunter based on a Keil Kraft kit I mentioned a while back. "Aion" is a real mis-match of parts: a re-motored Hornby 0-4-0 chassis with an N-20 motor; a Smokey Joe running plate and rear-cab wall (adds weight if nothing else!); the Keil Kraft boiler (hacked around a lot and extended with plastikard when I hacked it around too much!) and other associated m'gubbins from the kit; various etched and cast det
  22. Recently took this 21 pin decoder out of a Heljan cl128 - I have no idea what type of decoder it is as I know nothing about DCC hardware and have no intention of switching in the near future, so wouldn't know what to call it on an ebay listing or how much to ask for it so I thought I'd just give it away on here. Photos below, first come first served - I'll even throw in postage for free! The decoder is exactly as it came out of the model - I know nothing more about it!
  23. I swear there used to be a kit for the Killin Pug - Dean Sidings maybe? - using the Hornby CR pug in some way. I remember the first Hornby Magazine I bought years ago now had a 'how to article' on it and I was really tempted but never did follow up on it.
  24. I've been a little distracted recently with other stuff but came back to Filton Street this weekend and have added a load of greenery, which I think really helps to bed in the structures and hide some of the scenic deficiencies, along with starting to add a little scenic clutter in the form of some abandoned cable drums. Next step is to start adding some people, horses (around the stable yard) and more generic clutter. Apologies for the photo quality - a consequence of trying to take photos on a smart phone late at night! I'm particularly ple
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