Jump to content

Frappington Jct

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Frappington Jct

  1. Hi all, I'm starting to plan a rebuild of a rather wonky K2 model I built a couple of years ago and am hoping the hive mind might be able to help me with some information regarding cab styles. I know that the original K1s had a rather square cab (like this), but did they keep these when rebuilt as K2s or did they receive the more curvaceous style fitted to the new-build K2s (like this)? If they did keep the squarer cabs at rebuilding, how long were they retained? Did they get rebuilt again, presumably to increase route availability post-grouping? Essentially, what I suppose I'm ask
  2. I've now completed the lining out of one side of 'Hurricane', and the LNER style lining was definitely the right idea - the black is more obvious in real life. I've based the lining off this photo of No. 8 in 1950 so haven't put anything on the tender/cab cut-out (or what ever you would call it), but then again for the sake of ease I've built it in the slightly later style so might decide to line it as such. We'll see. I do also need to think about what to do about the works plate, as if the lining has highlighted anything it's the large space on the cab side that could do with filling.
  3. I managed to find a pot of Humbrol Decalfix in a draw and it's solved my adhesion issues. I've been quite busy this week so thus far I've only applied the black boiler bands. I've been grappling with the black and white lining and would appreciate a second opinion in terms of how it looks. I applied a single corner onto the cab and can't decide whether the lining is too thick or not - part of me isn't that keen but looking at BernardTPM's photos I don't think it's too far off? The perils of using items from multiple scales on one build!
  4. I've never needed it in the past but I think I might give it a go with this
  5. Thanks! I think the best thing to say is that I'm going to *attempt* the lining! I'm having problems getting the Fox lining transfers to stick at the moment so we'll have to see - I'm debating what way to go with the tender lining as I can't find a black and white composite waterslide transfer, but equally I don't know if I'd notice if it was just white
  6. No.8 is nearly done! All physical additions are now complete (apologies for some of the poor picture quality below) and the whole loco has had it's initial paint job - just needs transfers now to complete. The new physical additions are as follows: front end steam chest (or 3rd cylinder box, I'm not sure what it is!), under-tender air tank (or at least again that's what I think it is!), right-side battery box, smoke deflectors permanently attached and nameplates (so small I could get away with just printing on standard paper and it looks pretty decent!). Just need to get transfers
  7. I've had a productive evening! The bogie height has been reduced, a handbrake handle made & installed on the footplate, the loco buffers and vacuum cable have been fitted and everything primed (albeit a very thin coat on one side as the can started to run out.) The loco buffers are a little wonky as I had to modify a set of brass N-gauge auto-coach buffers to get the length right (they were the only ones available with the correct sized oval buffer heads), but from normal viewing distance it isn't really noticeable. I've also made a pair of smoke-deflectors for the loco out of thin plastik
  8. I decided I didn't like mk1 tender, it was too wide and whilst I was pretty happy with it in all other senses I knew the width would irritate me. So, I rebuilt it slightly narrower and I'm much much happier - turns out not only was the width wrong but the dangers of using a mix of different period photos shown. I found a couple of photos from the 1950s which clearly show more space on the tender for the crew, no tool chests (or whatever they were) between the crew and the bunker, and the cowling didn't travel as far forward on the tender. These have all been incorporated onto the tender, along
  9. Back to Hurricane. I've finished the superstructure of the tender, based on photos, guesswork and the CAD of a 1:48 3D print available on Shapeways (which, incidentally I'm considering buying in the future to make an operational 1:48 scale RH&DR layout). It's not 100% accurate as ever, but I think it looks OK. It's currently resting on the cut-up chassis from the original Flying Scotsman tender chassis to replicate the bogies. These will be glued down when I make a final decision as to whether I'm happy with it! That'll then be followed by the filler cap, faux-gangway, faux look out window
  10. Hi all, I'm looking for a single tender wheelset for a split chassis Bachmann Royal Scot/Patriot/Jubilee (I'm led to believe they used the same tender tooling) to replace a broken set on a model damaged during shipping from Ebay. I've tried using an Alan Gibson set, but it appears the pin-points on the axles are too long and I'm not overly confident modifying the axles or indeed the chassis. I've included a picture below just to clarify the type I mean. Thanks in advance
  11. I was considering it, but the size of the Hornby 0-4-0 chassis wheelbase means that the cog would have to be absolutely huge, plus there's a couple of protrusions on the chassis which would get in the way. In my head it's chain driven off the cog in the housing on the right-hand footplate - there's sort of a historical precedent as Aveling did make some chain driven locos. It's something I'd absolutely look to do if I had a smaller chassis on which to base the model, as it would be much more feasible.
  12. Haha, to be fair, the paint scheme is based on the preserved 'Blue Circle', which in turn is the basis for Fergus so I suppose you are correct
  13. Inspired once again by someone else on this thread from a while back, here's my most recent creation: 'Aion', a traction engine shunter based on a re-motored Hornby 0-4-0 chassis, Caley Pug running plate and a Keil Kraft traction engine kit. It's a bit of a beast but I rather like it really - suits my love of the weird and wonderful!
  14. I've gotten a little distracted recently... Again... No. 8 is still waiting for me to finish the tender, but in the mean time I have finally got round to building the freelance traction engine shunter based on a Keil Kraft kit I mentioned a while back. "Aion" is a real mis-match of parts: a re-motored Hornby 0-4-0 chassis with an N-20 motor; a Smokey Joe running plate and rear-cab wall (adds weight if nothing else!); the Keil Kraft boiler (hacked around a lot and extended with plastikard when I hacked it around too much!) and other associated m'gubbins from the kit; various etched and cast det
  15. Recently took this 21 pin decoder out of a Heljan cl128 - I have no idea what type of decoder it is as I know nothing about DCC hardware and have no intention of switching in the near future, so wouldn't know what to call it on an ebay listing or how much to ask for it so I thought I'd just give it away on here. Photos below, first come first served - I'll even throw in postage for free! The decoder is exactly as it came out of the model - I know nothing more about it!
  16. I swear there used to be a kit for the Killin Pug - Dean Sidings maybe? - using the Hornby CR pug in some way. I remember the first Hornby Magazine I bought years ago now had a 'how to article' on it and I was really tempted but never did follow up on it.
  17. I've been a little distracted recently with other stuff but came back to Filton Street this weekend and have added a load of greenery, which I think really helps to bed in the structures and hide some of the scenic deficiencies, along with starting to add a little scenic clutter in the form of some abandoned cable drums. Next step is to start adding some people, horses (around the stable yard) and more generic clutter. Apologies for the photo quality - a consequence of trying to take photos on a smart phone late at night! I'm particularly ple
  18. Quick update on my take on the Hornby 0-4-0 - big accomplishment is the building of the frame extensions and installation of a magnet and cab floor to secure the body to the chassis (the cab floor slots under part of the original motor mount). I'm slowly working towards adding the motor - the tiny Bachmann motor I was using isn't powerful enough to run the Toby chassis so it's getting replaced by an N20 at some point. The 0-6-0 chassis certainly does suit this body much better than the 0-4-0.
  19. I've done a bit of research and found a couple of motor options - both N20s, one without a gearbox attached and a 1.5mm shaft and one with a gear box and a 3mm shaft. I've ordered both as well as a few gear bits to have an experiment - I have multiple locos that could ideally do with new motors anyway. That being said, I found a motor out of a Bachmann Greg in a box the other day which might do the job just as well and comes with a worm to fit. I'll have a play and see what happens. Thanks all for the advice
  20. Hi all, I'm in the process of remotoring a Hornby Toby chassis to go under a project using a Bachmann Greg motor as I had it to hand and it fits under the body and need advice re mounting the motor. This is my first time doing something like this and I'm unsure exactly how to proceed. The dimensions of the new motor/worm mean I can't use the original mount and I assume just gluing the motor down isn't the best idea? Is it appropriate to 'just' box the motor in with plastic sheet or similar? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I've included a couple of pictures of the set up be
  21. Thanks! I think the motor is the standard one in the basic Hornby locos - below are pictures of it alone and sitting on the chassis. I reckon any new motor needs to be about a third smaller to comfortable fit in the body due to the gear wheel placement.
  22. The Dowlairs loco discussion has inspired me to restart a bash I started on the Hornby 0-4-0 a while back - I've essentially taken the standard body and added a coal bunker using a combination of a GWR 101 bunker and some plastic sheet, along with coal bars over the rear windows, new front steps off a Nellie (because for some reason when I started this ages back I removed the originals) and some Markits toolboxes. Aside from a whistle I've not got any plans to add more bits (apart from a cab floor, though that's not an immediate issue), but if anyone has any suggestions for something glaring I
  23. Not much progress recently as I've been distracted resurrecting my box file layout Filton Street Goods (link in signature etc.). However, I got No. 8 out again this evening and cracked on with making a start on the tender. So far, I've built the basic structure including bulkheads out of plasticard, as well as the top of the water tank - as ever it looks better in the flesh. Because the loco is being depicted as being transported, it ought to have an empty coal bunker and this is going to be the next (and possibly most challenging to execute) addition, along with the front of the tender (coal
  24. Scenic work is slowly plodding along, the most recent addition being buffers at the end of the operational sidings. The two loading sidings have inverted buffer stops inspired by a picture I found somewhere online, whereas the shortest siding simply has a sleeper over the rails and will probably gain a little chain when I eventually buy some fine enough. All are built from plastic sleepers salvaged from ancient Hornby track found in the loft, and painted brown with grey and black dry-brushed on top. Next job will be a bit of greenery and some other miscel
  25. It runs! Sort of... I'll be honest, it's not the best running layout but then I wasn't really expecting it to be - especially as I forgot to test it again before putting ballast etc. Hopefully the link here works for a short clip of my Bachmann 1f shuttling back and forth https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SZzNmN7ZtM-RAjsJTTkGqvd0fpmIjWS0/view?usp=drivesdk
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.