Frappington Jct

Back to Hurricane. I've finished the superstructure of the tender, based on photos, guesswork and the CAD of a 1:48 3D print available on Shapeways (which, incidentally I'm considering buying in the future to make an operational 1:48 scale RH&DR layout). It's not 100% accurate as ever, but I think it looks OK. It's currently resting on the cut-up chassis from the original Flying Scotsman tender chassis to replicate the bogies. These will be glued down when I make a final decision as to whether I'm happy with it! That'll then be followed by the filler cap, faux-gangway, faux look out window etc. I'm unlikely to try and put too much detail into the tender footplate area as the point of this isn't to stress too much over details that will be a proper pain to put in and will be barely noticeable. I might put a tarp over the cab to cover this. There is a slight camber at the top of the tender, but due to the primer/light it's not really visible in the photos. I had to guess the bunker layout as I couldn't find any pictures - I think it looks at least plausible, and again the sides are at angles but the light/primer hides this.

Hi all, I'm looking for a single tender wheelset for a split chassis Bachmann Royal Scot/Patriot/Jubilee (I'm led to believe they used the same tender tooling) to replace a broken set on a model damaged during shipping from Ebay. I've tried using an Alan Gibson set, but it appears the pin-points on the axles are too long and I'm not overly confident modifying the axles or indeed the chassis. I've included a picture below just to clarify the type I mean. Thanks in advance

I was considering it, but the size of the Hornby 0-4-0 chassis wheelbase means that the cog would have to be absolutely huge, plus there's a couple of protrusions on the chassis which would get in the way. In my head it's chain driven off the cog in the housing on the right-hand footplate - there's sort of a historical precedent as Aveling did make some chain driven locos. It's something I'd absolutely look to do if I had a smaller chassis on which to base the model, as it would be much more feasible.

Haha, to be fair, the paint scheme is based on the preserved 'Blue Circle', which in turn is the basis for Fergus so I suppose you are correct

Inspired once again by someone else on this thread from a while back, here's my most recent creation: 'Aion', a traction engine shunter based on a re-motored Hornby 0-4-0 chassis, Caley Pug running plate and a Keil Kraft traction engine kit. It's a bit of a beast but I rather like it really - suits my love of the weird and wonderful!

I've gotten a little distracted recently... Again... No. 8 is still waiting for me to finish the tender, but in the mean time I have finally got round to building the freelance traction engine shunter based on a Keil Kraft kit I mentioned a while back. "Aion" is a real mis-match of parts: a re-motored Hornby 0-4-0 chassis with an N-20 motor; a Smokey Joe running plate and rear-cab wall (adds weight if nothing else!); the Keil Kraft boiler (hacked around a lot and extended with plastikard when I hacked it around too much!) and other associated m'gubbins from the kit; various etched and cast details; and a plastic tube which came as a protector for a paint brush and is now used as a funnel. I've included a picture of it pre-painting below to give an idea of what all the different bits are! The paintjob was sort of inspired by the preserved 'Blue Circle' and does look much better when not the subject of a cruel photographic close-up! I will get back to No.8 soon!

Recently took this 21 pin decoder out of a Heljan cl128 - I have no idea what type of decoder it is as I know nothing about DCC hardware and have no intention of switching in the near future, so wouldn't know what to call it on an ebay listing or how much to ask for it so I thought I'd just give it away on here. Photos below, first come first served - I'll even throw in postage for free! The decoder is exactly as it came out of the model - I know nothing more about it!

I swear there used to be a kit for the Killin Pug - Dean Sidings maybe? - using the Hornby CR pug in some way. I remember the first Hornby Magazine I bought years ago now had a 'how to article' on it and I was really tempted but never did follow up on it.

I've been a little distracted recently with other stuff but came back to Filton Street this weekend and have added a load of greenery, which I think really helps to bed in the structures and hide some of the scenic deficiencies, along with starting to add a little scenic clutter in the form of some abandoned cable drums. Next step is to start adding some people, horses (around the stable yard) and more generic clutter. Apologies for the photo quality - a consequence of trying to take photos on a smart phone late at night! I'm particularly pleased with how the stable board is turning out, especially now I've stuck the 'scenic break' or whatever you might call it on the right hand side which gives it a wonderfully claustrophobic feeling. The addition of the grass has also really helped to bed in the little rubble pile in the dead space behind the stables.

Quick update on my take on the Hornby 0-4-0 - big accomplishment is the building of the frame extensions and installation of a magnet and cab floor to secure the body to the chassis (the cab floor slots under part of the original motor mount). I'm slowly working towards adding the motor - the tiny Bachmann motor I was using isn't powerful enough to run the Toby chassis so it's getting replaced by an N20 at some point. The 0-6-0 chassis certainly does suit this body much better than the 0-4-0.

I've done a bit of research and found a couple of motor options - both N20s, one without a gearbox attached and a 1.5mm shaft and one with a gear box and a 3mm shaft. I've ordered both as well as a few gear bits to have an experiment - I have multiple locos that could ideally do with new motors anyway. That being said, I found a motor out of a Bachmann Greg in a box the other day which might do the job just as well and comes with a worm to fit. I'll have a play and see what happens. Thanks all for the advice

Hi all, I'm in the process of remotoring a Hornby Toby chassis to go under a project using a Bachmann Greg motor as I had it to hand and it fits under the body and need advice re mounting the motor. This is my first time doing something like this and I'm unsure exactly how to proceed. The dimensions of the new motor/worm mean I can't use the original mount and I assume just gluing the motor down isn't the best idea? Is it appropriate to 'just' box the motor in with plastic sheet or similar? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I've included a couple of pictures of the set up below. Thanks

Thanks! I think the motor is the standard one in the basic Hornby locos - below are pictures of it alone and sitting on the chassis. I reckon any new motor needs to be about a third smaller to comfortable fit in the body due to the gear wheel placement.

The Dowlairs loco discussion has inspired me to restart a bash I started on the Hornby 0-4-0 a while back - I've essentially taken the standard body and added a coal bunker using a combination of a GWR 101 bunker and some plastic sheet, along with coal bars over the rear windows, new front steps off a Nellie (because for some reason when I started this ages back I removed the originals) and some Markits toolboxes. Aside from a whistle I've not got any plans to add more bits (apart from a cab floor, though that's not an immediate issue), but if anyone has any suggestions for something glaring I've missed please let me know - I'm rubbish at thinking up these things! In terms of the whole chassis debate, I had various ideas but crucially didn't want to spend much/if any money. I really wanted an 0-6-0 but didn't want to buy a terrier or Electrotren chassis, before I remembered I had an old Hornby Toby in the loft. The wheelbase is really short and I reckon it looks OK, aside from needing some cosmetic frame extension and a little bit of chopping to remove some support sprues which would force the chassis too far back. The major issue is that the motor is too tall so has had to be removed. I've never re-motored a loco before, so could anyone recommend a fairly small motor which would ideally fit the worm gear off the current one to save any really major re-working?

Not much progress recently as I've been distracted resurrecting my box file layout Filton Street Goods (link in signature etc.). However, I got No. 8 out again this evening and cracked on with making a start on the tender. So far, I've built the basic structure including bulkheads out of plasticard, as well as the top of the water tank - as ever it looks better in the flesh. Because the loco is being depicted as being transported, it ought to have an empty coal bunker and this is going to be the next (and possibly most challenging to execute) addition, along with the front of the tender (coal hatch, tool box etc.). I also need to add the slight curvature at the top of the tender body. These I'm aiming to do with microstrip, filed to shape once glued down. The filler cap is obviously temporarily held in place with bluetack at the moment to aid with dimension-checking. It's all a little rough and I may end up scrapping it all and starting again after the next stage, but in many ways that wouldn't necessarily be a bad thing seeing as this is my first attempt at 'proper' scratch building using plastic sheets etc. We'll see...

Scenic work is slowly plodding along, the most recent addition being buffers at the end of the operational sidings. The two loading sidings have inverted buffer stops inspired by a picture I found somewhere online, whereas the shortest siding simply has a sleeper over the rails and will probably gain a little chain when I eventually buy some fine enough. All are built from plastic sleepers salvaged from ancient Hornby track found in the loft, and painted brown with grey and black dry-brushed on top. Next job will be a bit of greenery and some other miscellaneous scenic items - aided by the lovely box of bits which arrived in the post today

It runs! Sort of... I'll be honest, it's not the best running layout but then I wasn't really expecting it to be - especially as I forgot to test it again before putting ballast etc. Hopefully the link here works for a short clip of my Bachmann 1f shuttling back and forth https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SZzNmN7ZtM-RAjsJTTkGqvd0fpmIjWS0/view?usp=drivesdk

In between enjoying the lovely weather recently, I've gotten the basic ground cover down in the form of Jarvis earth scatter and some fine-ish ash ballast mix. In real life it doesn't look quite so bespeckled - I suspect it's as a result of taking these photos fairly late directly under the light with a smart phone camera. The scrap of land behind the stables also has a little pile of ready formed rubble, which I'll admit I'd hoped wouldn't stand out quite so much. However, with some more scatter, a little repainting and some bedding in with weeds it should be fine - especially as there'll be a girder above the end of the box restricting the view of this area. I've also glued the street lamps onto the bridge and I think they look rather good! I've also got a bus stop made up, but I'm undecided as whether to install it in order to compliment the obligatory model railway 'bus-on-a-bridge' cliche.

Thanks! I agree it absolutely needs some more life - I have a load of people/horses ready to go on and will sort weeds once the ground cover goes down. I've never properly super-detailed a layout so I'm looking forward to it!

Sooooooo, it's been 3 and a half years but Filton Street has finally been awoken from its slumber, in much part because of a lack of anything else to do! It's original purpose of providing me with a layout at uni is now redundant as I'm back at home completing my MSC, but it provides a not-in-the-loft alternative to the big layout and an opportunity to actually finish something! I've done quite a lot recently without taking any photos, but here's a quick roundup of what I've done (some of the pictures haven't come out great but that's mostly due to the tight confines and shadows that the file sides cast): First up, the layout as a whole. You can see that there is now ballast (Carrs fine ash) on all boards and brown paint on the remaining open ground as a base for ground cover to go on in the next week. The bridge has also gained pavements and road markings, as well as some weathering to the girders. Box one is the most advanced of the 3, with some ground cover down and I've filled the gap under the back of the hut by adding some scraps of the stone material from the retaining walls to suggest a stone base (not visible in these photos). This board still needs ground cover around the factory area and buffers on the sidings. The non-loading siding will probably have just a sleeper over the end of the rails but the other two I have plans to build proper sleeper-built buffers based on a picture I found online a while back - watch this space. Box 1 has also gained two new structures - the crane is a basic Ratio (?) kit and is actually too tall to sit upright in the box with the lid shut so isn't fixed, meaning I can move it around as required. It is also currently missing its chain and hook, purely to stop me losing them as I'm working on the layout. The platform I'm rather proud off as I scratch built it out of match sticks before painting and weathering it. It's not perfect as it is dead straight whereas the track curves slightly and thus there's a bit of a gap between train and platform in the centre but it looks the part. Box 2 has had the least work done to it, but then it has the least to do. I've painted and fitted cobbles around the factory in much the same way as in Box 1, and fitted Scale Model Scenery laser cut fencing. Aside from ground cover, the next task for this board is placing some general ground cover to fill the open space. Box 3 has had a variety of work done. It too now has cobbles to serve the stable yard, with an access road running out under where in future another girder will act as a scenic break. The new fencing is a Bachmann ready-to-plant product which I think really looks the part and gives the impression of a run down urban backwater. I've also installed a set of buffers onto the dead-end/display siding - this was a white metal kit I bought years ago when I first started this project and has sat waiting for me to get to this point. I can't for the life of me remember who I bought it off which is a real shame as it went together a treat and I'd absolutely look at buying more for future projects. I've also been working on a set of Langley lamp posts and a bus stop for the bridge, which will get glued on in the next couple of days. Next job - ground cover. Oh, and I probably should double check it still runs too...

Progress has been slow whilst I got my final MSC essay out of the way, but I've now got all the boiler fittings, regulator rod and pipework fitted, which truly have remined me why I normally model standard 00 gauge - I'm still not sure how a pair of tiny brass safety valves can bounce that far on carpet… Most of the fittings are *slightly* too big/the wrong shape but that was always expected given the use of off-the-shelf parts for the 'wrong' scale, but it will still give the flavour of No.8 even if the dimensions aren't perfect.

A bit of a long shot admittedly, but I'm looking for a set of splashers for a 00 gauge LNER E4 2-4-0 - preferably off the Nu Cast/Stephen Poole kit but I'm sure I can make parts off other kits fit (I know at least Alan Gibson made one at some point). I bought a mostly complete kit off Ebay recently, and whilst I'm happy to try and fabricate a set of splashers I thought I'd chance my arm here first! Many thanks

The tender certainly is easier to build pre-rebuilding - I suspect an indentation that small would be rather fiddly to model accurately/neatly! I've done a little more work on the loco - it's moving at a snails pace at the moment due to other commitments. I've now shortened the cab to size, although the windows are being left as is due to fiddly-ness and the fact I'm not convinced I'd be able to do a decent job of them. I can always come back to it in the future if I gain the confidence, but for now I think I'll be able to cope with them being slightly small/the wrong shape. It all looks a little rough in the photo but from normal viewing distance it looks fine. I've also shortened the front of the running plate to better match the prototype. Now, it's again not quite the right shape but it's closer than it was! This is where I feel my decision not to model Green Goddess (my original plan) starts to pay off as the smoke deflectors on No.8 will hopefully hide some of the problems in this area - as I hope will a coat of primer/paint. All the component fittings for the loco have now arrived, so that'll be the next job to fit them as I'm still waiting on some material for the tender. All assuming of course I don't get too distracted with the GER E4 kit which arrived in the post today...

I've seen the colour referred to Caledonian Blue and Garter Blue so I assume it changed occasionally - I've gone for Garter. Also, it's interesting to see Hurricane had the red smoke deflectors - I'd only seen photos of other locos with this feature. And I'm definitely going to avoid the star I think - again it has fluctuated between having it and not over its history and I do not have enough skill to craft it properly!

Fab - thanks! I've been trying to track down some decent pictures as the details on the RH&DR locos seem to be fairly fluid over time and the only 1950s/60s picture I found was from a low angle where I couldn't see boiler fittings etc so this is great! It also confirms that the nameplate was in blue at the time - something which may not carry over to the model due to the options given by Narrow Planet!