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RexAshton

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    HIgh Peak, Derbyshire

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  1. It takes a bit of trawling through but there's a lot of info here.
  2. You could try contacting ACME models via their website. They may be able to supply you with a set of instructions - many manufacturers are helpful in this respect.
  3. All your presumptions are correct. Bear in mind though that the distance between the tracks need to be wide enough apart to handle stock if necessary. As you can see from the plan the centre track on both the sector plate and the scenic section are dead straight and form a datum. If the sector plate is then swung so that the centre (straight) track is aligned with the position you want the next track to align with it, it will allow you to calculate the approach angle of the track on the scenic section. Once that has been laid you will then be able to calculate the curve needed for the next sector plate track to align correctly with it. I've attached a somewhat ropey sketch to hopefully show what I mean. The method works but does require both the scenic and sector plate sections to be laid together.
  4. I'm currently building an Avonside 0-4-0ST 'Trojan' in 7mm. If it's any help I can scan the instructions for you as they include drawings.
  5. If I'm looking for a reliable cost effective decoder my first choice is DCC Concepts Zen range. I use a Multimaus and have never had a problem them.
  6. RexAshton

    L&Y Pug

    Sorry if I've missed this somewhere else. I'm fitting a High Level Kits chassis into a Hornby ex L&Y Pug in S4. I'm pretty sure I can fit a small Zimo sound decoder in it but I can't the relevant sound file listed by any of the usual suppliers. Have any of you lovely people any ideas please?
  7. I cant help you with the instructions but I can get some photos of my model tomorrow if that helps.
  8. They'll probably be better than plastic ones anyway.
  9. There's quite a bit here about 03s and 08s. I suspect they would be fairly standard across the range.
  10. Hmm. See what you mean. It shouldn't be too difficult in 7mm scale to embed 1.5 mm leds into scratch plastic housings. The protrusion on the top is a lamp bracket for standard oil lamps and again shouldn't be too difficult to add from flattened brass wire.
  11. Can't remember, it's been a long time since I built mine but these are a good bet.
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