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airnimal

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Everything posted by airnimal

  1. Sir Douglas, yes that's the one I worked from plus a drawing in Coal Trade Wagons by L,Tavender. Finished the L&Y W-irons so I just have to find a wagon to put them under. At least I have the books and drawings so it's just a question of what I need or what I fancy ?
  2. There was a lot more work than I was expecting but I have got there in the end, just 3 more to do. Would I use them again. If there was an alternative probably not.
  3. Having made up the sliding carrier part I was not satisfied with the fit which was to sloppy. So I have made new inner parts but added a peg at the top so I can spring them with a phosphor bronze spring. I will have to make another part for the top also with a peg to locate the spring. I cut off the top part to leave 2 prongs that limit the amount of travel movement.
  4. I am another sad modeller to learn of the passing of Adrain. I got to know him when he acquired the range of kits from Meteor models for whom I had made some patterns for resin kits. I don't accept that Adrain had a difficult personality, strong yes, perfectionist yes but then why would he compromise when he was a craftsman. The world needs more of the like of Adrain. I did a pattern for NER P4 hoppy wagon for him using works several drawings. I spent many hours going over photos and decided to go with one drawing before spending a couple of weeks making the pattern only for Adrain to reject it believing that I had made a mongrel from all the different information I had acquired. The model never appeared. He did ask me once to build him a LNWR brake van for his own collection which I think was a form of acceptance. R.I.P Adrain.
  5. Charlie, the short answer is no, there isn't any half etched line to bend at a certain point. You are left on your own with that one. So where to bent the carrier so that the ride height is correct is going to be by trial and error. At this point I am not sure how to proceed with the bearing carrier or how to spring them. I Have made a base plate similar to the ones I used for Slaters sprung W-irons that give the ride height for the W-irons that matches my other wagons.
  6. Charlie, thank you for the explanation, it does make things clearer now. I have decided to remove the W-iron from there base plate and solder a length of 3mm X 3mm brass angle to the back. I will use this to screw the parts in my usual fashion once I have drilled holes in them. I am not sure how I am going to spring them because I am making it up as I go along. Once I have made all parts ready to assemble on to the base plate I am sure it can't be to hard to figure something out can it ?
  7. Guy, I hadn't noticed that Charlie had mounted the carrier inside the W-iron . The photos were a bit dark to see clearly but once you pointed it out I can see that now. If bearing part is not riding in a slot how does whole thing work and keep stable ?
  8. Charlie, thank you for your input. I noticed that you have bent at 90 degrees the inner carrier at the end away from the bearing hole. Is this to allow for up and down movement in the W-iron. You say you have drilled extra holes to take the wires for the springing but it's not clear from the photos where they are. I had worked out how the sliding arrangements worked when I saw your post by removing the central part and I have now got a very free moving W-iron. It is the method of how the wire to spring them mounts that I have not worked out. I may remove each side of the W-iron so I can mount them in my usual way so I can screw them to the wagon floor. This enables me to remove them for painting.
  9. Thanks Guy, I broke the bend on the fold up carrier and in my haste I soldered it on upside down. I realised my mistake and took it apart and made good my error. I can now see if I remove the centre section it will enable this to slide in the W-iron. The plate in the middle of the W-irons I think is for compensation but I'm still confused by the different holes for the bearings being different sizes ?
  10. Well the loco has been locked up and may never see the light of day again. So it's back to wagons but.......... I have had these axleguards in stock for a while so I thought I better get them out and use them. First problem, they come without instructions. The packet advised going to the Ambis web site for the instructions which I did which show only the fold of the inner bearing carrier. Not being a computer expert ( thick really ) I couldn't find any other information. It may be there somewhere but I couldn't see it. So I am asking for help from someone who has used the axleguards. First thing I need to know is what they are supposed to do ? Are they fixed / sprung / rocking ? Why are the holes on each side for the bearings a different size ? I tried to work it out for myself and folded up the first set and one bearing carrier but what then ? Perhaps I have been following my own path for so long doing things my way I have lost the plot with kits and bits from the trade. Things that should seem so obvious never are to me. My good friend Peter says my brain is wired up wrong which he tells me at every opportunity.
  11. After soldering the front tank plate in and cleaning up I have come to the conclusion this loco is never going to get finished. I have mess up the rivets yet again and I should have scrapped this tank front again but I have used it with regret. I should have taken my own advice and binned it first thing instead of wasting hours on it. I think I better order some more wagon wheels.
  12. I have cut the tank sides down. I am quite pleased with the fit of the front to the tank that hopefully will not need to much filler / solder to achieve a good joint. I will use small bore brass tube where the tank turns under because there was a join here.
  13. When I cut a new tank front I will hopefully have a new tank to go with it. I bent a new tank using my bending clamps held in the vice and using wooden blocks to push down the sides. I left the sides over long and will cut back later to the size required. The tank very nearly fits with just a small amount of adjustment needed.
  14. Tricky, I didn't know my stupid ways would rub off on other people. You will make me feel guilty for posting. But as you say if it doesn't satisfy, it is never going to get better over time. I always regret it later if I don't something about at the time. I have a case in point here with the tank front. I used the old tank as a template to make another. I soldered the old tank front on to a new piece of metal and drilled / spotted through for new rivets. I cut around and parted the parts and cleaned the edges before riveting with my G.W. Models riveting tool. Unfortunately I messed up a couple of rivets. This was caused by my hamfisted workmanship and not the excellent G.W.Models riveting tool. Most people wouldn't bother but I can't live with this so I will make another one later, but not today.
  15. Gentleman, many thanks for you positive reaction to my tales of misery. I think a lot of my troubles not like building in metal is because I have always like the humble goods wagon since I was just a kid. There was always lots of freight trains on my local line with a small goods yard with wagons to go climbing over as a source of naughty enjoyment. Life seem so simple then. I was not to bothered with engines as much. So when building I haven't got as much enthusiasm for engines as with wagons. So I don't do much research or think things through. Take this loco for instance, I cut the footplate to the works drawing without taking into consideration regarding the frames width being under scale. If I had thought it through I could have adjusted the footplate to match the frame width. Anway i I think the best course of action is to just do a bit at a time and put it away when I get fed up with it. Before I put it away I have made the first of the window frames from brass tube. A brass tube that matched the drawing was put in the vice and a couple of rings cut oversized with the fret saw. The hole in the rear cab plate had the hole reamed out with a tapered large broach to accept the brass rings. The brass rings were soldered on the outer face before cleaning up leaving just a trace of solder on them. They were then put in cab plate with flux and heated gently with a gas torch. I cut out a hole in a bit of scrap tufnol that is 12 thou thick and placed it over the ring and filed it flat. I used this spacing ring both front and rear to file to size. A brass wheel was used in the mini drill to clean what little cleaning there was needed.
  16. The ends of the bufferbeams have been filled in and the corners rounded off. I am not happy with one of these as I have filed a bit to much off one and the it doesn't quite match the other corners. I have removed both the front and back plates from the old saddle tank to use as templates for new parts. The front of this has the rivets filed off leaving holes to use a drilling jig. One of the old splashes has been placed on the footplate At this stage it may be going back in the box because I am not enjoying rebuilding this loco. I have come to the conclusion that metal work is not for me. When I make a mistake when working with plastic I just make another. It doesn't bother me if I have to make the same part tenfold before I get thinks right. But in metal it makes me angry and moody. Not sure why but it's not a nice reaction from someone who prides himself on never getting angry. Even my better half says why do it if you don't enjoy it.
  17. Angus, thanks for that but you may be a bit premature with praise. I am flying by the seat of my pants not really sure what I am doing or how it is going to turn out. I fitted both bufferbeams and just started to put the footplate valances on. The first one has gone as seen here before any cleaning up has taken place. I clamped the valance to the footplate with 6 crocodile clips and cut small bits of solder and dotted them along the inside edge before heating with a small gas torch. I started to heat from the centre taking it easy so not to warp the footplate.
  18. Behind the bufferbeam there is a strengthening plate made from U section channel. So I looked in my selection of metal stock and found some brass rectangular tube from K & S. So a piece was cut to size and filed to shape before tinning on the back. This was soldered on to the back of the bufferbeam using my Graskop resistance soldering iron. Everything about the footplate is to be renewed with new metal.
  19. I folded the last side by clamping it down to the bench with a section of brass to hold it stable then used a straight edge to fold it into a rectangle. I held it all together with sprung clips before soldering along the back edge with a gas torch. This let the solder run inside leaving very little cleaning up to do. I left the last side over long and filed back the excess. Lacathedrale asked about cleaning up. After a quick rub with abrasive cloth it was given a clean with Viakal and Stardrops Pink Stuff. Any solder is hardly seen because the part I solderd will be underneath where it wouldn't be seen. There was so little cleaning needed that it only took me a couple of minutes.
  20. After messing up the rivets on the last buffer beam I have cut out a couple of replacements. They were marked out and drilled for the buffers with a ever increasing diameters of drills and broaches, de-burring as I went along both front and back. I have heavily scored for the fold lines before bending to shape. The second one doesn't have holes for the buffers because they had dumb buffers on the rear almost from new. Bar the works photo I have never seen any loco in service with rear sprung buffers.
  21. Lacathedrale, the chassis was made years ago when I was still working and I had access to a range of equipment including a small industrial shoot blaster. So I was able to place all the parts in this before putting it through large ultrasonic tank. I don't miss working one bit but I do miss have several large and small lathes and milling machines at my disposal. Plus my boss was unusual in the fact he was happy for his employees to do work for themselves in works time. For the last 10 years I worked in the scientific industry. Our firm made and developed mass spectrometers which gave me new skills and techniques. Several of my colleagues were watch makers by trade whose standard of workmanship was absolutely top notch so I had to raise my game accordingly. The footplate you see here was cut from a new sheet of nickel and marked out on one side with a scribe so the other side just needed a light rub with a fine grade of foamed backed abrasive cloth. I have started to make the bufferbeams from 10 thou nickel from one piece which is scribed and bent to shape after drilling for the buffers and coupling. This one will be scrapped because I have made a mess of the rivets adding one in the wrong place. I am never afraid to scrap something that I don't think comes up to standard I try to aim for.
  22. Guy, it is a A.B.C mini gearbox. I was going to used a Sid Stubbs mini gearbox but the water tank balance pipe got in the way of the drive shaft. So I asked A.B.C to provide me with a small self contained one. I am not sure if it is part of there range or a one off. I have cut the motion plate to roughly the final shape and marked the cutouts needed.
  23. I have cut the footplate to the works drawing but even in S7 the frames will be to narrow leaving a gap showing between the splashers. Perhaps I should have thought of this before I started but I will find a way around this later. Another problem I have is I won't be putting inside valve gear in which leaves a large gap between the frames. I could do with putting in the motion plate / boiler support and dummy value gear. So having decided it needs something between the frames I went and found a thin sheet of Tufnol. Because i am using spilt axle pickups I need something that isn't going to short out. I cut a piece of Tufnol to fit between the frames along with a couple of thin bits of nickel. I made up a sandwich of 2 parts Tufnol and 1 part nickel and glued the together with epoxy leaving a gap between the nickel. This will have to be drilled and shaped to fit the curve of the boiler when I get around to doing the bodywork.
  24. I decided I would cut out a new footplate but in a thicker gauge. This probably over scale at 22 thou but the original one at 15 thou was a bit flimsy. There isn't a lot to brace it with because the footplate edge valance is only 2" which scale out at 1.17 mm. So even using some 1.5 mm X 1.5 mm square brass bar it will be over size. I will have to see what it looks like when I get to putting it on. When I first made this loco I didn't get as far as putting buffer beams on it and this may not have help with lack of rigidity.
  25. Lacathedrale, yes I made all the parts for this loco over 20 years ago. Some were scratch built and some were milled on a pantograph milling machine. I made this jig from mild steel which bolted together and drilled for different sizes. There are different size holes for different size diameters so I can fold metal parallel and straight. The ideas is to clamp the parts in between the 2 plates in a vice and use something suitable to push it down. The Midland letters on the wagon are Meth Fix. I painted the new plank with the Tamiya XF-57 and the applied the letters over the paint. When dry I then cut through with a scalpel and scrapped off the part over the new plank.
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