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Paul_sterling

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  • Location
    County Durham
  • Interests
    Engineering
    Opera Singing
    Art
    Model Railways
    Steam Engineering
    Tractors
    Stationary engines

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  1. A pair of snips works well, as the taper of the blade lifts the part off with control. you basically, find a corner of the skate, and attempt to cut the corner, as close to the build tray as you can, and if lifts off extremely easily, once you've removed the vacuum that has built up its quite easy. Paul.
  2. At this stage I'll take the project timekeeping of an old man with a big white beard to deliver on time over Oxford Rail......... P.
  3. I'm inclined to think Grahams issue is software related, as the printer is "functional" in respect of its three exposure shapes/test, but not curing anything on an actual print. 1. The lights arent illuminating during print. 2. the resin isn't actually resin. Graham, Couple of tests. 1. Take the build tray off. take the resin vat out, and set your print away that keeps failing, and observe (from behind the filtered screens) if any lights come on during the "print" 2. put the Vat back in with some resin in (not much), a
  4. Thanks Keith, I wonder if we'll see it before Christmas........ Paul.
  5. Morning All, I was just wondering if anyone had heard any updates on the J27 beyond Hattons estimated arrival of between Jan and March (!) Thanks, Paul.
  6. My preference of those I’ve tried thus far is Siraya tech fast. Ive not really found a bad resin yet, elegoo abs like grey takes some tuning to get right, I guess the one I’ve not really got along with as yet is Siraya tech blu, seems to need very long exposure and is quite flexible, which isn't always a good thing. Anycubic translucent green has been good, but shrinks more than the fast does. I’ve got some elegoo water washable to try next.
  7. Ditto on Anycubic Grey and Elegoo ABS-like grey, though sometimes I drop it down to 7.5s on bigger, solid features. 0.03mm slice height. Paul.
  8. Hi Graham, so taking things a few steps at a time. - I level/zero the bed on mine using a piece of paper, and lower the plate till it is slightly dragging, dont put it tight, as it stresses the screens and reduces their life. - The resin they send is useable, but unspectacular. I've got two Photon S's (one for work and one for home), the resin that came with the work one, is rubbish, and we discarded it. the anycubic translucent green that came with my printer on the other hand was pretty good. these days I've settled on Sariya Tech Fast, an excellent all
  9. A photon Mono, is quick and robust, but the Mono X is gaining mixed feedback. Its a lot of money, and you can make surprisingly big things on the smaller printers anyway. I've had a Photon S for almost a year, and its been pretty good, but you have to learn how to position parts, design supports (I make my own interface supports), and gain a feel for exposure times over the lifecycle of a fep sheet. Paul.
  10. I let Samson pick ours, it was between black or maroon, and he went straight for maroon. Paul.
  11. Thanks Richard, No problem at all, I'm leaning towards the general guidance to a 52F chassis, likely ordering it today, it seems a nice solution that ties all of the components needed to one place (which is how I would, personally, prefer kits, but I believe the kit industry has evolved based on how the large majority customers prefer to work). Thanks, Paul.
  12. Morning Everyone, Apologies for not replying to everyone individually, I had quite a busy evening (council meetings, eBay sales, 3D prints......), but I did at least read and digest each of your messages, so thank you all. On all of your guidance, I am inclined towards the 52F chassis, it seems very well regarded, as does the high level gearboxes, but I think for simplicity, if I was to go 52F, I'd use the motor-gearbox provided in the kit, far less trouble for a tool like me. I don't think it is unduly expensive, and the secondary advantage is, if I was to design and
  13. Thank you Mark, (and John) Yes the kit has the whitemetal frames with it, 52F do offer an etched kit to fit the Nu-Cast shell, but I thought of seeing how I get on first before getting serious with replacement frame kits etc (unless the general consensus was that the chassis supplied by Nu-cast required throwing out - time is precious you see). I suppose though, the cost of the 52F kit, isn't a great deal different, to wheels, gearbox, motor etc from different places, and it includes a set of frames. I may have an X04 lying around, I assume that almost everything Tri-a
  14. Morning All, I have a J21 Nu-cast kit. I've never built a loco kit before, but I have designed and built a number of Locos with my 3D printed shells. The kit I have is as dispatched from Nu-cast, so no wheels, motor gearbox etc. I'm looking for advice on the correct brand and model of motor gearbox, as well as choice of wheels, I've used Alan Gibson in the past, so that was my first thought on it. Any advice on construction/assembly of this particular kit would be most appreciated. Thanks, Paul.
  15. Hi Les, I ended up producing the CAD for a lambton austerity cab, though it’s now with Corbs at model mania. I’ve tweaked it since to over all of the variants (with the limited information that there is available), with the exception of its current squared off bunker on No.60. It’s been a nice little side project to the other Lambton locos I’ve done (29 and 5), though sometimes tricky to get the bead form right on the cab. Paul
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