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TT-Pete

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  • Location
    Shaftesbury
  • Interests
    Trains!

    Both 1:1 scale and model. Main line, preserved, steam, diesel, electric, UK and abroad, anything that has wheels and runs on rails - all good! :-)

    Modelling - mainly TT both UK 1:101 and Continental 1:120 scale after coming back to them from OO/HO in 1999;

    But changing circumstances mean I've come over all a bit HO Luxembourgish of late...

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  1. Ian, yes indeed Romford wheels and using the extended axles bought from 3SMR, code RAX1 on this page https://www.3smr.co.uk/wheelstock.html I remember that there was a crushing sense of finality "you'd better have got this right" when fitting the cranks and con rods as the axle ends have to be filed off, meaning the wheels are now irreversably fitted, and you cant fully test the chassis with the con rods in place before the ends have been filed off... I procrastinated for days. :^)
  2. I have @Robert Shrives of this parish to thank for kickstarting me with this one; A bit of background first, it's a Worsley Works BR class 08 shunter kit with etched brass body and etched nickel-silver chassis. Mashima motor, Branchlines 50:1 gearbox and Romford wheels. The crank axles were a bit of a challenge but the chassis went together without too much fuss. The body also went together neatly At this stage it ran smoothly and free-running at low speeds as I'd loaded as many flywheels as would fit inside the body and as much lead as w
  3. Quite. I was looking through my nameplate stash and given recent events when I saw Eddie eight I just thought "oooh yes, it has to be that one..."
  4. Blimey - it looks as if I may have actually finished something for a change! I present you 6029 King Edward VIII Le Roi est mort - vive le Roi!
  5. Nigel, I stick a bit of masking tape over where the hole is to go, it helps keep the drill bit on target and stops it wandering during the first critical moments.
  6. I had exactly this problem when building an etched brass class 73 in 3mm scale, I ended up taking the far easier route of throwing the brass roof away and using a section of plastic coach roof instead:
  7. Ah, that sounds like a high-risk scenario! How does one tell if a motor is coreless or not before putting the loco on the layout and potentially frying it? Do the advantages of using a feedback controller outweigh the risk? I think Dad bought it around 1980 so it has been lying around for decades, would have been nice to use it, but if it's the wrong tool for the job....
  8. Perhaps I should have phrased the question as "What controller is best for a shunting layout?" As I understand it a feedback controller senses the load on the loco and so maintains a constant speed, which sounds like it would be ideal for slow-speed shunting, no? I know they are not recommended for coreless motors (but I don't know why) or for older vintage or N scale locos, but as I already have this one to hand I am wondering if it might be suitable...?
  9. Condolences also, like Jon my Dad was the reason I developed an interest in modelmaking and model railways. Much missed.
  10. Hi Wim, Going through boxes of negatives and prints over the weekend I came across this undated picture (Edwardian?) of the Rye & Camber Tramway and thought it might be of interest.. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rye_and_Camber_Tramway Cheers, Peter.
  11. Hi Garry, My Branchlines 9F chassis has a slightly different arrangement of Romfords with Flanged, unflanged, unflanged, Flanged, unflanged. Runs fine on my test track circuit but haven't tried it through pointwork yet. <sigh> I really must get around to finishing the rest of the loco one of these days...
  12. The King went to pieces as the result of spending the night with a stripper But soon pulled himself together And is now starting to look a bit more regal
  13. Hi Nigel, I think the wheels are Kean Maygib, I fished them out of this big box o' bits I have accumulated largely through years of rummaging in second-hand stall boxes at 3mm Society meets and thinking "Interesting, that might come in useful one day..." Having re-wheeled a few Tri-ang coaches I must say your proposed method sounds a bit complicated and I've had problems in the past getting wheels square to the axle again after taking them off (when making Society diesel chassis kits for example). The vertical slot really isn't much of a problem, I find
  14. Love me tender... The King's tender has now been fitted with metal spoked wheels by the axle holes being drilled out to 2mm to take unflanged bearings, and a 1mm vertical slot drilled on the inside so that the pinpoint ends of the wheelsets click into the axle holes with a little bit of pressure. The centre wheelset was left with a bit of left-right slop when pushing in the bearings which will hopefully help it navigate curves.
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