Roger Sunderland
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Posts posted by Roger Sunderland
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Thanks both of you for the further suggestions. My friend is currently looking at possible MERG alternatives as he’s a member. The Yamorc option does sound interesting though. If I may I’ll come back to you on this if necessary.
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Thank you so much Nigel. That’s clarified my thoughts and is definitely the way to go. I will try option 2 first to rule it out, if nothing else, although I did try this some years back unsuccessfully, however not with a diode fitted.
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40 minutes ago, Nigelcliffe said:
I think its more likely the GF board is looking for a circuit which connects the input to ground (which closing a simple on/off switch over the terminals achieves).
Yes you are correct in this Nigel, having spoken to GF.
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The problem with the DS64, in slow motion mode, is that using it for signals, with the GF boards, doesn’t work, I think because you can’t switch off the current. You can raise a signal arm but then you have to remove the power for the arm to return to “on” and the DS64 simply reverses the power, as it would to reverse the point motor if it was connected to one. I’m wondering if I connect the board to say terminal 1R and the common, leaving out the opposite throw it might work?
But surely there must be a stationary decoder on the market that can mimic an on/off switch, or be configured to do so.
Nigel, your second guess was right for DCC Concepts- I don’t think they understood the question.
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1 minute ago, Stephen Freeman said:
depending on whether your DS64 outputs a constant voltage or not, if not you will need a latching relay. Personally I cannot see the advantage of using DCC for the control of signals or turnouts unless you are using such as JMRI panel pro on a PC.
Yes I am using Panel Pro on a PC and I’d like to incorporate the signals into that, rather than have a separate panel with switches for just the signals.
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Thanks for this Nigel. I will investigate the 2 options you’ve mentioned. As you say , the GF boards have a very simple requirement but I tried DCC Concepts and they said they were unable to help.
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Hi there
I’m looking for some help here please. I operate my signals with GF control boards. These are excellent but rather than use the suggested SPST switch to send an electronic signal to the board to energise the servo to move the arm to off or on, I’m looking for a DCC solution. I currently use JMRI panel pro to operate points etc through Digitrax DS64s.
The way the boards operate is that when the switch is on the arm is lifted, returning the switch to off and the arm drops back to position. Only requires 2 wires to the board from the switch ie. Current on/signal arm “off”. No current/ signal arm “on”.
I’ve tried using the DS64 but can’t seem to get it to mimic the simple on/off nature of the SPST switch.
please does anyone have any idea how I can achieve this ?
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I believe there is a rebate behind the window to fit a suitably sized piece of clear material. Can’t use the usual plastiglaze as it can’t be lasered. I’ll ask the specialist!
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Sorry about the lack of info on here about further developments. In November there was a small fire in the workshop overnight. Fortunately the area where the layout is stored didn’t suffer but there was some smoke damage to other areas close by and access has been somewhat restricted since then. Things are still progressing though and Simon has been working on the massive task which is the station building. All the parts have been laser cut and the main items all 3D printed.
Top photo , one of the 20 odd buttresses they line both sides of the main building. Middle photo is the 536 windows that now all need painting. Bottom photo is the goods shed in its raw state.
Finally the remaining two scenic boards are nearing completion now and we hope to restart track laying once they’re done.-
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Most people use Kadees at rake ends only on Bachmann Mk1’s. Is this article advocating something different?
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Yes , I have the same, diagnosed as Benign Essential Tremor(BET) it affects mostly my right hand. I was right handed but I’ve taught myself to do most things left handed like soldering for instance.
So far it hasn’t stopped me from building layouts and indeed kits but can be very frustrating .
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Well said Andy. Hattons have been a part of my life since I was 6 years old and living on Merseyside. I will miss them. Good luck to all the people who worked there, I hope things work out well for everyone and thank you.
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From a personal point of view I think this is a great idea. I’m a very poor sleeper at best and hated having to share rooms, leaving me exhausted by the end of a 2 day show. But I didn’t have an issue with making a contribution to our exhibition outings. This idea at least allows flexibility to suit people’s preferences .
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Very sad news about Hattons, an institution in the model railway world. I remember going to the old shop in Smithdown Road with my uncle, I’d be about 12. In the end he literally had to drag me out - I could have stayed in there for days.
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3 hours ago, tingleytim said:
On my “Templecombe Lower” (00) I’m looking for something better than hands of god to uncouple pilot locos (a pannier tank and an Ivatt tank - both Bachmann). The pannier has a Zimo sound chip (145 036). The Ivatt has a Zimo no-sound chip (145 037). I wish my piloted trains could stop on straight track but they have to stop on a curve of about 3 foot radius. Might Preci uncouplers work if the curve has this largish radius? Is the problem reduced if the cotton is pulling towards the outside of the bend? It’s very difficult to stop piloted trains at a precise position; this precludes some other uncoupling methods and makes the Preci system seem very attractive.
One other problem; separating the rear coaches of two trains that leave joined together and then are separated (in full view!) to go their opposite ways. Equip one of the coaches with a decoder?
Any advice very welcome on Preci or other systems. West Hill Wagon Works have an uncoupler coming “this year” for their Hunt magnetic couplings; a possible alternative?
Many thanks for any responses.
I have to say I’ve never tried Preci couplings on a curve so I wouldn’t like to comment. If you’re using Kadee couplings I wouldn’t have thought there’d be a problem separating coaches. Kadee uncouplers work reasonably well, although their electro magnetic one works best. The Rapido trains electric uncoupler also works very well- again though probably not on curves.
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1 hour ago, jwealleans said:
Ian's kits are a joy. I'd recommend them to anyone.
Seconded. I’ve built several, including the Siphon, and they are, without doubt, the best etched kits I’ve ever come across- bar none!
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2 hours ago, Methuselah said:
Motor Gearboxes.
Tony,
Rightly or wrongly - the Portescap RG4 still seems to be very sought-after. Justified ? Now that unit is no longer available, what are your recommendations for alternatives ? Are coreless motors preferred ?
S.
I still prefer Porescaps if I can source them as , of course, they come complete with gearbox. However the coreless motors sold by High Level are really excellent, powerful and quiet.
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14 hours ago, Michael Edge said:
My advice is to throw the Peco track rubber away - it's far too coarse for this job and leaves scratches in the railhead. I used to use very fine (1200 grade) emery which gradually polished the rails but since applying graphite to the track I hardly ever have to clean anything.
Yes totally agree. Peco track rubbers (and others) put more rubbish back on the track than they take off. I have found that using the DCC Concepts track rubber gives perfect results. It is made from a non abrasive material and the trick is to just polish the tops of the rail - not scrub it. As also mentioned I’ve found DCC considerably reduces the need for track cleaning. A quick run over with the above product every 3-4 months is all I find is required.
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Sorry to be negative but it’s sad yet another GWR prototype has been chosen. There are still quite a few LNER locos covering a wide time range eg B16, that haven’t been done at all before. Opportunity wasted IMHO.
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I have reduced CV63 down to 160 from 190 which has helped with the sound cutting out during start up- as suggested earlier in this thread. However I think the issue may be to do with the capacitor bank. The sound only cuts out if you try and start it immediately you apply power to the track. Leave it for a couple of mins , selected on your controller, and there doesn’t seem to be a problem. Are the capacitors having to charge up?
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On 12/11/2023 at 21:28, 55020 said:
I have spent some time being obsessed with trying to get the decoder settings optimised for my taste. I've now reached something I am really happy with and thought I'd share, so if anyone wants to tweak their settings this may help.
I started by trying to work around the rather quick start with the sound equipped 37s (compared to when the sound is turned off). If you have one of these thrash machines, you'll notice that at speed step 1 the brake release sounds, but nothing else will happen until you get to speed step 8 (assuming 128 Speed Steps selected). Once you get to SS8 the revs will increase ever so slightly and the loco starts to move, but too quickly. You can then throttle back to SS1 to get it to slow down and crawl. The moving off at SS8 appears to be baked into the sound project so not easy to counter. In the attachment you'll find two options. Option one is a simple CV change that will make the loco move off at SS1, but doesn't alter the fact that the engine revs don't increase until SS8 i.e. synch between movement and engine revs at very low speed is lost. The second option has many more CV changes, but will result in a crawl at SS8 (i.e. same speed as SS1) with appropriate engine revs. If anyone has another solution please share.
I also slowed the acceleration rate (giving longer thrash!), which then needed a change to the "light load" setting.
Tweaks were made to the lighting settings along with a few other bits and pieces, including moving the dynamic brake from F29 to F2.
All changes I made are detailed in the attachment, along with the original settings. Of course you don't have to change all the settings listed, you can also introduce your own values for a number of the changes.If it all goes horribly wrong, then writing CV8 = 8 will reset it back to the original AS values.
Steve
Accurascale Class 37 decoder settings.pdf 218.06 kB · 47 downloads
Many thanks Steve, exactly what I needed.
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40 minutes ago, scissors said:
Hi Roger,
I use a LokProgrammer so would just alter the brightness setting for outputs Front light [1] and Rear light [1]. I'm afraid I couldn't tell you the exact CV's to alter.
If they're the same as 37043 then they'll be on a brightness setting of 5 out of 31 so there's plenty of adjustment left.
Sadly I don’t have a Lokprogrammer. Anybody else on here know what CV adjustments to make?
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15 hours ago, scissors said:
Just started playing with the decoder settings on my 37043. Has anyone managed to alter the brightness of the car headlight? I can alter every other light but changing the settings for AUX11 and 12 makes no difference to the brightness. I'm wondering if it's wired in such a way as to prevent it being changed.
I’d like to increase the brightness on my early 37 D6702 head code indicator boxes. Any idea of which CVS would cover that Scissors?
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Many thanks for all the replies on the A2. Certainly seems the Polmadie 2 were the only ones to get the stripe- and then later than the period I’m interested in. I think Sugar Palm must have hauled some lesser trains than even express freight before her withdrawal in 1962. Any further photo evidence would be much appreciated- I have looked!
Semaphore signals and DCC
in DCC Help & Questions
Posted
Thanks Nigel, I’ll bear that in mind. I would probably prefer to use the DS64 as I already have them but I’ll look at all options.