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dmurrell

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  1. That’s a better reply than I could have hoped for - I suspected it might be a trade secret! I will look forward to your book... David
  2. Very nice work Mike! I'm curious to know how you do the bevelled brick capping - sorry I can't think of the correct architectural term. I can only think it's done using hand tools but it looks too good for that. David Murrell
  3. Will, in true D & S style - economical with paper! David D&S 524 04 Siphon.pdf
  4. An excellent book, well done Jim. I received my pre-ordered copy earlier this week, direct from the publisher. It really does bring together a lot of material from different souces so will be very useful. The shaded line drawings are excellent, particularly in tracing changes during the evolution through various diagrams of a particular class. I did find one small comment that needs attention, a reference to Saint David's conversion to the prototype Hall on page 126. It was of course 2925 St Martin that underwent conversion in 1924 to become the first Hall. 2920 St David was the last Saint, being withdrawn in 1953. Most GWR afficionados would be well aware, so would regard this as just a minor slip that occurs easily at the editing stage. The section on tenders is particularly useful, as alluded to elsewhere. David Murrell
  5. dmurrell

    JLTRT

    I was talking to David at Scaleforum a few years ago - he told me the same thing had happened to the 3,500 gallon intermediate tender artwork, which suggests a bit of a mix-up with handover. I wonder if they ended up in the JLRT 7mm stuff? David Murrell
  6. Thanks Mike, I'm well aware of his predicament and obviously support his priorities; I have held off contacting him again until now. Thanks very much for posting the Siphon Underframe planner. I will add them to my order and hope for the best. Please pass on my best wishes when you see him next. David
  7. Joel, I'm not sure there is enough room between the frames in 00 for working inside motion - I very much doubt it, but check the instructions. I would suggest leaving out the inside motion anyway if this is your first 4mm loco chassis, it does add a degree of difficulty! There's enough new stuff with managing compensation and quartering etc if it's your first build, assuming you don't build it rigid. I had probably built about a dozen P4 locos before tackling working inside motion in Finney Collett goods many years ago and it did slow things down a little. You can probably go back and add it later anyway if there's room between frames. Very nice brake van by the way! David
  8. I know Mike, I asked for the Siphon planner over a year ago! And I've just reminded him about an order from last September... David
  9. Does anyone have a copy of the David Geen Siphon planner that they would be willing to scan and make available? David Murrell
  10. Some very interesting photographs and even more interesting discussion! There was a suggestion earlier in the thread that the type of photographic emulsion might contribute to van roofs appearing lighter because of greater contrast. Many emulsions at this time were still orthochromatic - that is, they rendered blues and greens as being lighter, so giving an apparent increase in contrast, however this shouldn't have much effect on white or grey such as might be found on a van or carriage roof. True, it might contribute to a green field appearing lighter. Panchromatic emulsions were introduced in 1906, however were still quite expensive (up to three times the cost) until the 1930s. Panchromatic film would be more likely used for commercial work and I think it would probably be used for a specialised application such as aerial photography where tonal rendering is more important. David Murrell
  11. Thanks Alan, a very good recommendation! I received my copy this week from Amazon - it's an excellent book and not just for those who are thinking of getting a machine, as Alan suggests. It is divided into three sections, the first deals with the different technologies and how they may be used, the second explains design strategies for optimal printing and the third builds on part two, dealing with the various CAD tools available. There have been a couple of other books published recently covering 3D, but this is far and away the best, despite the relatively high cost. David Murrell
  12. According to the Brassmasters Blog, dated 2.1.18 they are "getting to grips with a new 3D CAD and 3D printing" and hope to resume work on the crane kit shortly, should be available once castings have been done. Of course it all depends on how long they take to adopt the new technology, but I imagine it will be worth it. David Murrell
  13. Very nice indeed! Was the Hammond artwork for these absorbed into the original 247 Developments range? I've been looking for a L22 etch for some time. David Murrell
  14. If you are serious about going P4 from the start, and IMHO there is no reason not to, then I would suggest doing a couple of simpler RTR conversions using etched chassis kits such as those from Comet eg 0-6-0 such as a Terrier, or a Brassmasters "Easichas" conversion, eg the Wainwright class C if you're looking at Southern prototypes. I have only one PDK kit, a 42xx as yet unbuilt, and I would suggest it's not a great place to start in P4! The chassis will largely have to be scratchbuilt, possibly using the existing frames. I have been getting kits and other stuff shipped overseas from the UK since 1987 and have never had anything damaged in the post. Perhaps I've just been lucky.That's not to say some items weren't a little dodgy prior to going into the postal system... David.
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