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Simond

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    Kent
  • Interests
    GWR 1930's; Atmosphere, smoke & steam oil
    Boats, ships, harbours, cranes, winches, & things mechanical
    Kits in plastic, brass & white metal (or, anything else)
    And a bit of scratch building if I'm in the mood

    http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/80443-great-windowledge-railway/ - now closed,dismantled and finished, but remembered in these pages!

    http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79052-porth-dinllaen-in-0/?p=1239819

    http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/82978-arduino-applications-and-programs/

    Lasers. - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/110058-co2-laser-the-learning-curve/

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  1. Ok, returning to my suggestion, don’t reset all the points and lights, merely set the route, and when the move is complete, press the same button again to “unset” it, ie return all points to normal and turn off all leds. but in the case you describe, you will have multiple simultaneous moves, that’s great, providing you don’t cause moves to conflict. if you arrange that “unsetting” can only be done by pressing the same button again, it could provide a measure of route locking; an alternative route would not be able to conflict because the points would not be permitted to change. I still feel that you do not need to have a working memory of each led or point setting, you merely need to reliably set pins high or low depending on the route button you pressed, and then return them to normal when the move is complete. atb Simon
  2. Ray it seems to me that within each of your four districts, you have a limited number of routes, and each route requires some pins to be high, and all the others low (or the opposite) Simply setting the necessary pins high when setting each route would be feasible, provided you have a "reset all to low" after the move. I guess the reset could be a preliminary function of the next move, as in press the route button, and it clears any previous route, and then sets the new one, or it could be a separate button, or it could be triggered by the arrival of the train in the destination section. On this basis, would you not simply need a table of the pins that need to be set high associated with each route? I would use a 2D array, where the row number was selected by the input pin, and the the columns are the possible output pins, the elements in the array would be boolean 0 or 1 according to needs. hth Simon
  3. Exquisite work, especially in 4mm. Delightful!
  4. Simon, Wakefield is 257 miles each way for me, so I’ll join the “waiting for the southern show” crew! thanks for sharing your epic journey, & the very best of luck for the premiere! Simon
  5. Absolutely none, they’d be full of the Irish Sea! The land between Bidston hill and Caldy hill is very flat, indeed, much of it was tidal a long time back. There were brickworks in Moreton, (my mum worked there as a secretary in the early 50’s) but I think most of the land is sandy rather than clay. There are tidal defences from New Brighton & Liscard most of the way to Hoylake prom. There is a “very toytown” hill and overbridge at Meols station, looks almost like it belongs in a sixties TriAng catalogue. There’s also an overbridge at Moreton, and one at WK, but I think the other crossings are all gated level crossings - Leasowe/Reeds Lane and Hoylake - I can’t think of any others beyond Bidston. The northern side of the Wirral is much hillier, and there are lots of overbridges, and the railway goes underground in Birkenhead, of course. There is certainly one underbridge at Wallasey Village, but the double deckers go under that without problems. Craig’s photo shows the old GW main line to Birkenhead Woodside, so the bridge has been there a while! This line is raised on embankments for a couple of miles before diving into cuttings & tunnels near to the Mersey tunnel entrance. The line splits for the old, long gone terminus, and the docks. You can see the track for the Merseyrail line to Chester still using the old right of way.
  6. I note from this year’s IgNobel prizes, that there is good evidence for the transport of rhinoceros, upside down. sedated, obviously… apparently it’s better than them lying on their sides. Then again, I don’t suppose the old Great Western was overly worried about such matters.
  7. Hungarian State Railways van for carrying the holes that go in the side of biros?
  8. And seeing the old square lamp again this morning, I recall they had poles, perhaps like a lighter version of those used for horse jumping, alternate bands of red & white. the hooks were that big to hang on them. found these, road works of course, but you get the flavour… I remember having one of those yellow compressor trucks, and telling my mum about it as there was a real one in our road. I was young, under 5, as we moved house then. Atb Simon
  9. The Indian approach to “road works” was to secure a reasonably large fern with a couple of rocks, a yard or so either side of the hole. Environmentally very high marks, I’d say. Not high on the visibility stakes, particularly in the dark, however. I do recall a story about some blokes clearing a house. The foreman says, “right you two, there’s an old door on the front room floor, put it on the bonfire”. They picked it up stretcher-fashion, and the one at the back went down the hole it was covering… more relevantly, did they have those red and white concertina things by then? and lots of these and NO CONES!
  10. I googled “coach roof” - looking only at the few prototype photos that appeared to be original rather than preserved, they were varying shades of grey, but quite uniform. the photos did not show streaking or other “features” Im away at the moment, I’ll have a look ag some book photos when I get home i think the dirt trapped in the framing is very much as I recall seeing on photos, and brings the whole vehicle into relief atb simon
  11. ah, well, it does look like sand anyway, I’ve learned something thanks to John’s post.
  12. Can’t help thinking that ballast bin wants grey ballast to match the track….
  13. Ade, if you have a “PFI” incident there, you’ll need more than a brass magnet!
  14. I’ve been an advocate of 0MF since I started building track, almost since I returned to 7mm; it seems to me to be the ideal compromise thought it requires a willingness to take the plunge and build track, which some very competent modellers seem reluctant to do. You can run on others’ 0F or 0MF track, and you can use RTR without modification. and the running is much better than 0F, probably as good as S7. (then again, a bit of plasticene in the frog of 0F is actually quite good, looks horrid close up, but works remarkably well!) and, out of respect to Mike & his lovely models, if we want to chew the fat over the scale/gauge options, let’s do it elsewhere. atb Simon
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