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Simond

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  • Location
    Kent
  • Interests
    GWR 1930's; Atmosphere, smoke & steam oil
    Boats, ships, harbours, cranes, winches, & things mechanical
    Kits in plastic, brass & white metal (or, anything else)
    And a bit of scratch building if I'm in the mood

    http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/80443-great-windowledge-railway/ - now closed,dismantled and finished, but remembered in these pages!

    http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79052-porth-dinllaen-in-0/?p=1239819

    http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/82978-arduino-applications-and-programs/

    Lasers. - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/110058-co2-laser-the-learning-curve/

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  1. Or simply slip them over the ends of the rail, don’t solder or glue. Do need to ensure the rail end is burr-free, or they don’t fit. Or cheat with the plastic ones, partially cut the rail head, cut the plastic fishplate moulding in half and glue it in the web only on the visible side of rail, saves on droppers, saves on fishplates. atb Simon
  2. You could have a zoom session with “a few of us”, but I’ll bet a pound to a penny that a one-to-one with one of the contributors on here will be quicker & simpler. I’m an Engineer by profession, and my experience is that experts are rather like clocks. If you have one, you know what time it is. If you have several, you’re never quite sure... do let us know how you get on (and my tuppenceworth: clean the gearbox, and the pickups, lubricate gearbox with decent oil - I use the stuff for beard trimmers - and fix the motor to the chassis temporarily with blu
  3. You can tell a lot about a horse from its digestive output. I remember reading about it when I had riding lessons a gazillion years ago. Don’t remember the details, I’m sure you’re all pleased to know. Given that they’re basically a digestive system with a “run-away” module and “panic” mode, I guess it’s only logical.
  4. “Engine across gap” is eminently detectable by a light beam & phototransistor aligned with the gap, or two such arrangements set a few mm either side of the gap. Indeed, there are arguments to suggest that doing this anyway, and checking before every move, would be a good thing. ideally the control system / decoder setting a pin high for one position, and low for the other, seems like a simple control logic. The Arduino can set a pin high or low depending on its position, and another depending on whether it is moving or correctly “parked in position” if full interlocking is r
  5. I smiled. The sketch & design I did for Paul is for a 7mm MOOR ST. (My mistake!) I’ll put the sketch up tomorrow atb Simon
  6. I have drilled Springside ones, they’re whitemetal, go gently, sharp drill, lubricate with saliva (and don’t swallow the drillings!) but I’d recommend Modelu too. atb Simon
  7. Hi Keith, That makes sense. You can have, indeed, I think you need to have, microswitches as you have now, they can talk to the Arduino that I assume you’re going to use to control the stepper. I’ll have to get on the laptop, but I’ll post the sketch I wrote for Paul. Hopefully you can use that, though I’m not sure how you’ll interface the Arduino and your decoder. It may be convenient to have two microswitches at each end, the Arduino could react to the motor signal from the decoder, perhaps. The power going off mid travel would need some kind of reset, but that’s
  8. Ah, an “automated Crispin”. if it needs to know where it is without moving at start up, I suspect you need to park it on a switch (or something similar) that indicates that the system is in a known state when switched on. as with my CNC machine tools, your computer cannot know why it had been turned off, and if it was an emergency stop, or power cut, the deck possibly won’t be where the computer thinks it should be, even assuming the program has a position variable containing valid data. Once initialised, the CNC has feedback that confirms the axis positions at all times,
  9. Google is your friend https://www.swelluk.com/swell-anti-kink-pond-hose/ We use something similar for extraction for work. We 3D printed the connectors and nozzles. There are lots of makes and varieties - I don't think the fluting/spiral wrap direction makes a difference. If in doubt, wrap a bit of gaffer tape around the joint, or use some sealant? atb Simon
  10. There are quite a few threads on the subject, you'll need to decide whether or not you want sound and what size trains and duration of run you want. With this info you can decide what receivers & batteries you will need. The Deltang and similar transmitters will "bind" to multiple receivers and some have a switch allowing you to select one-of-several bound receivers. Many RC builders deliberatly select coreless 6V motors to get better life/performance but that has a cost implication too. Youll presumably want to use rechargeables, so factor in the costs and inconv
  11. I got so fed up with my turntable losing position that it indexes & zeroes its position counter when I turn it on, and on every revolution thereafter. I'm going to try these other stepper drivers, in the hope that they don't make the motor whistle... Our CNC machine tools at work all reset themselves as part of the start up - you have to push a button to initiate it, they don't do it on their own, in case they would destroy a workpiece or tools, possibly after an e-Stop (it can't "know" why it was off). I designed & programmed an arduino traverser drive for Pau
  12. Nice I have a mogul, a prairie and a 1361 to build, and then I'll have another look. does look impressive in Miss P's photo, and the kit looks very attractive. Just don't think it is the kind of loco to be found at the end of even a major branch in North Wales...
  13. I’ve never varnished my models, as I want the different textures to appear different, so far this has not been a problem. atb Simon
  14. It’s that kind of jig I was referring to. I model in 7mm so it’s a bit small. Card is better than feeler gauges as it doesn’t scratch the paint! atb Simon
  15. Chris, couple of thoughts which may help. Make a jig, bit of thick plasticard (or wood...), drill hole at the appropriate distance from an edge. Bend the end of your wire & poke in the hole, bend other end over the edge of your jig. Snip off at a suitable length, pretty much guaranteed to all be the same. You can buy etched jigs with loads of different distances, but I’ve never felt the need to splash the cash. Another quickie, again, card or plasticard, suitable thickness. Cut to a shallow triangle, Use as a spacer to get them all the same offset fr
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