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Simond

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  • Location
    Kent
  • Interests
    GWR 1930's; Atmosphere, smoke & steam oil
    Boats, ships, harbours, cranes, winches, & things mechanical
    Kits in plastic, brass & white metal (or, anything else)
    And a bit of scratch building if I'm in the mood

    http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/80443-great-windowledge-railway/ - now closed,dismantled and finished, but remembered in these pages!

    http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79052-porth-dinllaen-in-0/?p=1239819

    http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/82978-arduino-applications-and-programs/

    Lasers. - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/110058-co2-laser-the-learning-curve/

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  1. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phil_Neal paragraph 3 atb Simon (another one)
  2. Simond

    Little Muddle

    Artybollocks is a hoot. Is anyone aware of a similar generator of pseudo-science, the kind of not-quite-untrue guff that is typically attached to adverts for “rejuvenating” skin cream & “nourishing” hair shampoo? (And a lot of other more serious issues) atb Simon
  3. just looked at the photos on t'interweb It appears that they might have changed, but assuming it is the same basic point as the last ones I modified, you lever up & remove the box thingy (which is not really even slightly prototypical) and you'll find a wee spring inside, shaped like a ring with two legs, which each have an angled end. The ends are poked down through two very small holes, one in a timber and one in the tiebar. This gives the click-click action. You can just pull it out, vertically up. I suggest that you superglue a bit of plasticard to the timber to prevent the tiebar moving away from the frog, and thus allowing the blades to detach from the fishplates in which they pivot. I'd try with your point motors before you make a decision. I have used Tortoises and I did remove the springs, Cobalts may be different, and it might not be necessary. There are some threads where folks have cut away all the unprototypical bits of the box area to make it look better, and it does, but if you're buying new points, you might not want to take a chisel to them. Alternatively, consider building your track yourself. There is a learning curve, and it does require soldering, filing and gluing, and time, but it is WAY cheaper and MUCH MORE satisfying! Options are copperclad sleepers/timbers (Marcway and others) or wood sleepers/timbers and plastic chairs (C&L). Having started with copperclad, my preference is now for the appearance that the C&L chairs and wooden sleepers can provide. I only use PECO track where it isn't the main focus of the model, and PECO Points are for the fiddle yard. Plenty of info on here about home made track. And, you can build to 31.5 gauge, "0-MF" which will let you run any commercial 0-Fine model stock, which will not suffer flange drop as it will on normal 0F crossings (irrespective of manufacturer), and 0-MF looks better too. HTH Simon
  4. Simond

    Little Muddle

    Juxtaposition? Juxtaposition? How can you possibly consider the effects of juxtaposition when the essential thrust of the artistic context hasn't been fully explored? I can't cope. I'm off for a lie down in a darkened room...
  5. Simond

    Little Muddle

    The techniques you use are clearly effective. I must complete the ground cover on my locoshed, and borrow the photo lighting stands from work, and then try to copy... the stand you have has a coiled compact fluorescent? No flash as well? ta Simon
  6. Billy, thanks, it did the trick as it was! My desk used to look out on those ruddy great pipes... cheers Simon (if anyone’s particularly interested in train disc brakes, I could reminisce a bit )
  7. the building top right has now gone but was the Lucas Girling Railway Brake division. The offices you can see were the factory management, hr, costing, etc. The engineering office (where I worked in 83, and from 86-88) were off shot to the right along the road with the pipes. The row of cars that are not parallel to Thermal Road are where the disc brake dynamometers were housed in a purpose built shed, and the staff car park moved to the triangular area between the fire station and the pipes, upper left. thanks for posting, took me down memory lane! Simon
  8. But probably not city centre commuter stations... and whatever you allow for your station, consider how your trains will enter and depart, if you put a 90 degree bend at the end, it’ll eat up six feet of your wall length. atb Simon
  9. Rod, it’s coming on very nicely. rather than glue down your allotments, you might want them just to sit in place on a sort of sub-baseboard, indeed, you might make the fire station a “scenic subassembly” too, as you can then lift it out for detailing, cleaning, changing lightbulbs, evicting spiders, photography or whatever. might be worth having a look at Little Muddle, on RMW. Kevin has made extensive use of this technique, and it seems to me to offer some real benefits. of course, you’ll need a bit of Morecambe & Wise - “you can’t see the join” atb Simon
  10. I’m afraid that patenting an idea is only possible if it is still “unrevealed”. Essentially it needs to be secret before publication of the patent application. A patent application for something that has already been published on a public forum will not succeed. sorry to be the bearer of sad tidings Simon
  11. I hope we’re not talking about the sewage farm here...
  12. Phil, it had not occurred to me that the corners were supposed to butt, and the mortar lines adding. I fell into the assumption trap... atb Simon
  13. Mikkel, I'm surprised by the corners. I normally cut “combs” of interlocking bricks on my lasercut walls (see my engine shed, and my laser thread). It is challenging to get it right, and I’m a base amateur when compared with those who do it for a living... Do have a look at Phil Healy-Pierce’ work on his Intentio website. Mainly 7mm, but I believe he does do lesser scales t’other option is to chamfer as you have done, but the etched mortar lines make it all very fragile as you have unfortunately discovered. I guess soaking with sanding sealer or similar would make the MDF a bit tougher for the sanding of the chamfer. atb Simon
  14. Simond

    Little Muddle

    rule 1 applies!
  15. Brian, I’m not so sure. The brocante fairs seem to be organised by a group of individual stall holders, nearly all of whom are present at each fair, so they are professional and knowledgeable, I guess. My impression is that it is rather ironic - people go because they think they’ll get a bargain and spend more than new stuff is worth! There is a lot of tat. There’s also quite a bit of unusual, or difficult-to-find bric-a-brac. What I guess the sellers won’t know is what stuff might be worth abroad, so a UK modeller might be able get a bargain. Not my thing, as you know, but if anyone were travelling, it might be worth looking out for. atb Simon
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